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The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Page 6862

post #102916 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoogz View Post

Anyone ever seen a hand attached collar on a Banana Republic?

Anyways...Cotton / Linen Mix
Pretty sure I found one of those about a year ago. Loved the colors and thought I could make the fit work. Ended up redonating it once I started lurking on waywrn and realized how off the fit was.

Also, interesting synergy: I also found a PRL vintage hand rolled while on vaca.

--
Edit: dude, fishy, that attolini and billy Reid are awesome. My size too. Discipline... discipline...

--

A Dude here passed on a tip to me about a PRL/Corn herringbone suit. 44L and I was hoping it would work, but its def too long and prolly too big. I'm really trying to be disciplined and not waste money tailoring things just so I can have yet another suit I wear once a year, So if it works for someone here, happy to pass along at cost.
Edited by GMMcL - 4/20/14 at 6:23pm
post #102917 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoogz View Post
 

 

 

 


is thisfor sale?

post #102918 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by runyourchain View Post

Atlnoob how does one accomplish this in mobile?

Btw you just quoted and reposted my entire post while you were frowning upon it. I get your point and try to live by that but on mobile that did not come up as an option.

 

 

Hi RYC - please see above re: spoilering.  As far as quoting & reposting, I meant not including someone else's stack of photos in a reply...i.e: someone posts their 15 or 20-photo haul, then someone else replies to that post and those 15 or 20 pics get reposted.  Sorry, wasn't singling you out - yours was just the most recent of the trend.  :)

post #102919 of 114800

Apologize if you believe this post is out of place on this thread, however, GMMCL has pointed out on a number of threads that the gorge of a jacket, as much as any other factor, dates the jacket and reduces its overall desirability. (When I joined style forum last year, I had no idea what a gorge even was.)  Other factors, such as shoulder padding, lapel width and more are also factors, but in some ways, those are better understood. I asked him if he would explain his view on gorge in a PM and he sent me a nice explanation with accompanying photos. I took his photos, made them all the same size so they were easier to compare and then tried to illustrate his points with overlays. So any credit for the thought work here should go to Greg. Any errors are mine.

 

I hope his tutorial helps you as much as it did me. 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

First of all, what the heck is the gorge? When I first started looking into this, I believed it was just the tailors name for the notch. However, in this thread over at AAAC (http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?51688-blazer-gorge ), Chris Despos explained and Alex P. illustrated that the gorge is technically “the line where the collar and lapel are joined”, ending at the notch. 

 

With that in mind, this first photo outlines a current style jacket and labels the relevant parts of the jacket.

 

 

There are three factors to consider:

Gorge placement (How high the point of the notch is)

Gorge angle (How acute/narrow (think fish mouth) is the angle of the seam from the point of the lapel)

Direction and size of the Notch (at different points, the notch widened and narrowed, and in some appeared to point down, instead of down. 

 

Those factors are demonstrated here in this graphic. Note that the yellow dashed line in all subsequent graphics is as the shoulder line to give us a comparison point in all the photos. 

 

Note in red, the dashed line that goes from notch to notch. The small red line between the yellow line and the red line shows the placement of the gorge. On the right lapel, I’ve put the angle of the notch there which will be used to compare in other jackets. On the left lapel, the angle of the notch is highlighted. 

 

 

This is just about as classic as it gets: mid gorge placement, facing shoulder, Notch is approximately ~90 degrees:

 

Low Gorge:

This next photo is of a Hickey Freeman Cashmere jacket. This is an example of a low gorge: Look how low on the jacket the gorge rests.

  • Note the line connecting the notches and how much lower it is relative to the yellow shoulder line. 
  • The angle of the gorge is also radically different. For reference, the white dashed lines are the same angle as our reference jacket above. The red line is the angle of this jacket. Not quite double, but radically more vertical than the reference angle. 
  • Finally, on the left notch, I’ve overlaid the notch angle from above, the red dashed line shows that this jacket is more open than the reference jacket. 

 

 

High Gorge:

This is about the best example I have. Not dramatic, but if you compare it to the one above above, you can see the difference. Notice how the line connecting the notches is exactly on the shoulder line.. It's even higher with more "fashonable" Italian labels. However, the gorge angle and the notch angle are identical to the reference jacket. 

 

 

Wide or Down-pointing Notch:

Acute, almost fish-mouth gorge (suits from the 70s are even worse, plus they face downwards -- very dated). Note that even though the height is between our reference and our high examples, the notch angle is more open and pointing down more. 

 

 

The Age Trifecta:

And here's the trifecta: Low gorge placement, slightly acute gorge angle, and downward facing. This is very typical of Oxxford even until recently and it makes the suit look SUPER dated.

 

 

And finally, all the jackets side by side.

 

 

Hopefully this post will contribute to your thrift store shopping success.

post #102920 of 114800

Hit a few stores on Saturday and came out damn near empty-handed. All available for cost + shipping + small markup unless marked otherwise.

 

 

Uniqlo foulard-esque print, small, Wrangler cowboy shirt for my Stampede rotation (N/A), RG (tasteful by RG standards), medium

 

 

Uniqlo available at cost + shipping, not much value there but figured the pattern was cool enough that someone would want it.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Riggs & Bancroft "Malte" belt, medium

 

 

Viyella plaid robe, untagged but mediumish

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Would've been my first Belvest find but it was totally destroyed, had to leave it behind. Out of curiosity, anyone know how old this label would be?

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #102921 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by futuremyth View Post
 

Hit a few stores on Saturday and came out damn near empty-handed. All available for cost + shipping + small markup unless marked otherwise.

 

 

Uniqlo foulard-esque print, small, Wrangler cowboy shirt for my Stampede rotation (N/A), RG (tasteful by RG standards), medium

 

 

Uniqlo available at cost + shipping, not much value there but figured the pattern was cool enough that someone would want it.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Riggs & Bancroft "Malte" belt, medium

 

 

Viyella plaid robe, untagged but mediumish

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Would've been my first Belvest find but it was totally destroyed, had to leave it behind. Out of curiosity, anyone know how old this label would be?

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Is the belvest an overcoat?

post #102922 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

Is the belvest an overcoat?

Naw, staple navy blazer. No wonder it was worn into the ground.
post #102923 of 114800
Does anyone know what this is?

post #102924 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayxlui View Post

Does anyone know what this is?


Hard to tell, but it looks like a shoe
post #102925 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post

Hard to tell, but it looks like a shoe

Touche.
post #102926 of 114800

looks like three shoes and a raw phalange.

post #102927 of 114800

Anyone have a guide to decoding Hermes numbering system?  Specifically the 7000's series on normal twill ties.  This will help give information on the pattern design.

I've looked online for a plug-in, with no luck yet.

 

Any data sheet or information on them, would be a great help!

Thanks.

post #102928 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayxlui View Post

Does anyone know what this is?


Saw a pair of oxfords at a discount store once with that logo. They were around $200 on sale made in Portugal reminded me of Rachel comeys or vanishing elephant but those don't appear to be it :/ killin me I can't figure it out
post #102929 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoogz View Post

Anyone have a guide to decoding Hermes numbering system?  Specifically the 7000's series on normal twill ties.  This will help give information on the pattern design.
I've looked online for a plug-in, with no luck yet.

Any data sheet or information on them, would be a great help!
Thanks.

I believe the number system is not publicly known. It consists of 3-4 digits and a letter code. The problem with it is that many patterns have been redone year after year in a variety of color ways.Three-digit numbers are some of the older prints, but beyond that, I'm not sure how much info is available.
post #102930 of 114800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitar Preacher View Post

Saw a pair of oxfords at a discount store once with that logo. They were around $200 on sale made in Portugal reminded me of Rachel comeys or vanishing elephant but those don't appear to be it :/ killin me I can't figure it out
Yeah I was thinking Vanishing Elephant or Surface to Air. Its made in Portugal so you called that.
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