I'm planning a basic suiting wardrobe (made-to-measure) of about 4 or 5 suits. Â After a few months of learning and trying different styles, below is what I came up with. Â I know the members will fault me for this, but even if I could afford 20 suits, I don't want to spend too much time searching for them or buying new ones every year, so I'm looking for something timeless, as I hope these last (construction-wise) for a while. Â I figure I can add a personal touch here or there without pushing the suit into ephemeral fashion territory. I'm just shy of 6 feet tall, slim (39 chest, 28.5 waist, hips about 35.5) but very fit. Â (I'm one of those odd ones: tall with small bones (wrists are about 6.25"...:-)) and "peaky" muscles.) Â 28 years old. Â I normally wear a 38L, but I'm in between a regular and a long. I'm self-employed, so I'm not worried about the opinions of neurotic people or group narcissists... :-), but conservative styling is fine for the first few suits. Â (Besides, we should keep variety in the gene pool.) Anyway, the basic style I came up with would have: 1) Two-button SB. 2) High or slightly high gorge. Â I've tried a low gorge suit, and it looks ridiculous. 3) Moderate to high button-stance, although I think a lower stance would look good against the high gorge placement, if not very classic. 4) Lapels of average width. Â Nothing weird here. 5) Flap pockets. Â Throw in a ticket pocket to break up length on the less basic suits, perhaps. 6) Suppressed waist, erring on the side of greater supression. 7) Skirt that rides close to hips with slight flare, and flare in front. Â I think I'd want to avoid a full hour glass shape given my slight structure and that I don't have an hour glass shape. Â Perhaps I'm wrong here. 8) Narrow arm hole. Â Looks great on me. 9) Single-pleated pants with 1 3/4" cuffs. Â I prefer flat fronts (no cuffs, of course), but think this is a good compromise. Â Double pleats on me just look sloppy and out-of-place against the jacket cut I'm considering. 10) I wear a 10 1/2 shoe, which I think merits about an 18" ankle opening? 11) Side vents on all suits. With respect to styling, there are a few things I'm not quite sure on: 1) Swelled chest? 2) Shoulder stance? Â I have normal shoulders. Â (Any slight sloping is caused by the trapezius muscle and I've never understood why anyone would want to square up their shoulders (except in an extreme case such as bodybuilder or a very tall person.)) Someone here may be able to suggest something. Â I was thinking a shoulder with minimal or slight padding with a soft rope. Â My "shoulders" are naturally concavely pitched (aren't we all?), and I think the suit should match. Â The shoulder would sit on the natural shoulder line, but the roping could extend it slightly. Â Nothing exaggerated here. 3) Boutonierre on the lapel? Â I'm not sure about this styling detail. As for fabrics, the two basics I came up with were: 1) Navy birdseye. Â (I like the texture, which looks solid from a inches away, depending on the lighting.) 2) Dark gray / charcoal, perhaps with a slight heather. Â I think I look better in dark gray. Both of these would be in an all season fabric. For the other few suits, I was considering other shades of gray with or without with patterns, or perhaps a tan or olive suit. Â I'm very texture oriented, as you can tell. Â All the pinstripes or chalkstripes I've tried emphasize leanless (I've never found one that looked right on me without making me looking gangster-like), so I'm considering subtle windowpanes and prince of wales checks. Â I may also throw in a DB with the six-by-two placement for good measure, probably with a subtle windowpane pattern. Does anyone have any advice on the versatility of these patterns? Â I like them very much and they are rarely seen anymore. Â I think they'd be a great look if the silhouette was right. One of these additional suits would be a summer suit and the others (two at most) year rounders or winter suits.
post #1 of 24
2/27/05 at 5:40pm