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post #8701 of 19164

Surely having the right labels is important to any youth cult especially those that have a smart look . Crombie's should be made by Crombie , Sta prest by Levi's , shirts by BS going to buy market versions or fakes is the opposite of the idea of working class chaps dressing above there station.

post #8702 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

Surely having the right labels is important to any youth cult especially those that have a smart look . Crombie's should be made by Crombie , Sta prest by Levi's , shirts by BS going to buy market versions or fakes is the opposite of the idea of working class chaps dressing above there station.

if you followed the whole thread you would know, that alot of the old ones on here allready posted that they and other kids didnt had the money for all the original brands back in the days....
and in 2012, i still would prefer any non brand made in the 70s button down shirt, over these so called skinhead brands made in china now.....
post #8703 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

I live in Teddington and every girl between the age of 10 and 18 wear DM's in all colours and designs on em ..  funny that its the middle class kids who wear em the working class kids from across the 316 in Feltham seem to stick with trainers .. complete turn around . In fact working class kids seem to have avoided ' youth cults ' while the student types happliy take bits of Mod / Skin / Punk .

A nice place to live but very expensive in recent years. It still has a lot of individual shops rather than the national chains. I had not noticed DMs there but then I was not looking. I also like the way Feltham always seems to get mentioned as a chavvy dump - not just by you. Teddington is a good way from Feltham all the same.
post #8704 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by ek77 View Post

if you followed the whole thread you would know, that alot of the old ones on here allready posted that they and other kids didnt had the money for all the original brands back in the days....
and in 2012, i still would prefer any non brand made in the 70s button down shirt, over these so called skinhead brands made in china now.....

Very few skinheads in China though, and certainly no original ones(except maybe for the odd expat). wink.gif Mao Zedong didn't exactly encourage that sort of thing.
Edited by MikeDT - 8/19/12 at 8:49am
post #8705 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Vaughan View Post

think - given your contacts - there's a business opportunity for you here, Mike. nod[1].gif

Possibly Ed.. I have been thinking about it. nod[1].gif But I wouldn't really want to get into the Chinese apparel industry though, Too much shit going on. Few winners, many losers. Being a foreign teacher and only one of two expats(NOT sexpats) in the whole city, I'm treated like a VIP sometimes, get to know a lot of people. I'm sure the key to getting on in China, besides knowing Mandarin and the culture, is to have a good guanxi(good personal contacts, who can get things done, give good information and get you in places if needed).

Many people come to China, don't bother learning Mandarin or anything about the culture, hang with other sexpats in places near Hong Kong and Macao, just get drunk every night and fuck every hooker they can get hold of. I started in Zhuhai near Macao with other expats, but then soon moved on when I realised what a bunch of wasters many of them are.
Edited by MikeDT - 8/19/12 at 7:37am
post #8706 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

Surely having the right labels is important to any youth cult especially those that have a smart look . Crombie's should be made by Crombie , Sta prest by Levi's , shirts by BS going to buy market versions or fakes is the opposite of the idea of working class chaps dressing above there station.

It's not just about visible labels and logos and what company made a particular garment, Which is brand whoring, something I very much detest. Thing is most of these famous brands now bare absolutely no relation to what they once where. Fred Perry is owned by some Japanese fashion conglomerate, Crombie is owned and run by a bank, and Levi is a huge multinational mega-corporation. All their products come from cheap sweatshop labour here in far-east, and sold for sky-high prices in the west. Think the worst examples are Emporio Armani, Abercrombie & Fitch and Dolce & Gabbana.
post #8707 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT View Post

Actually there's usually a reason for that. Very often the fakes are coming from the very same Chinese, Indian and Bangladeshi sweat shops that make the originals. It's known as unauthorised second-run production. Say a factory has a contract to make 10,000 polos for FP, they might actually make 15,000, FP doesn't know that, the extra production goes out the back door, to local stores and clothing markets here in China and around the world and out onto the internet. I've seen the cheap FPs here, in additon to which I''ve also seen Topman, Burton, Brooks Brothers, The Bay, Debenhams, M&S, C&A, BHS, Zara, Ben Sherman, Gap, River Island, Polo Ralph Lauren, Banana Republic, etc. even George from Asda been sold in local Chinese clothes stores and on Taobao.com. I'm asolutely sure that no one is going to fake George or Topman.
Also there's any number of apparel factories listed on Alibaba.com and Made-in-China.com that will make you convincing polos, sweats, hoodies, harringtons, etc to pretty much any design you like with any logo and tags, e.g. FP laurel leaves.
BTW there's two interesting and very informative books I've read quite recently, one is called "The Economics of Counterfeit Trade: Governments, Consumers, Pirates and Intellectual Property Rights" that's on Google Books, the other is called "Poorly Made in China". Plus I also know a few people(former students) that work in the Chinese apparel industry.

Ah ok. So technically not so much a fake as they are non licenced.
post #8708 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingstonian View Post

A nice place to live but very expensive in recent years. It still has a lot of individual shops rather than the national chains. I had not noticed DMs there but then I was not looking. I also like the way Feltham always seems to get mentioned as a chavvy dump - not just by you. Teddington is a good way from Feltham all the same.

I used to work with a Window Dresser(during the 60s)who came from Feltham.Always reckoned it was a good place then.How time changes Places.
post #8709 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksideoftheforce View Post

Ah ok. So technically not so much a fake as they are non licenced.

Yeh, that's pretty much it, unlicensed second-shift production, plus there's some seconds and rejects that go out the back door as well. I bought a pair of Sperry Top-siders a few days ago from a local store, they're the exact same made in China boat shoes that Sperry sells for 70 to 100 quid, I paid 260RMB, that's about 26 quid. I've bought quite a few things like this over the last three years in China, It's all good quality, difference is...the price. Plus they also seem to fit me much better than many clothes from Chinese brands, which are usually too small for me, usually the sleeves are too short.

There's plenty of things that really are inferior fakes though, like LV, Hermes, Rolex, Montblanc, etc. High ticket luxury items, that don't usually come from China. But on the other hand no one is really going to fake Debenhams, M&S, Topman or River Island.
Edited by MikeDT - 8/19/12 at 4:54pm
post #8710 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

Surely having the right labels is important to any youth cult especially those that have a smart look . Crombie's should be made by Crombie , Sta prest by Levi's , shirts by BS going to buy market versions or fakes is the opposite of the idea of working class chaps dressing above there station.

I agree with this statement,

apart from skinhead being a youth cult. It's a well established subculture now, that has quite a steep learning curve. Any newcomers to this scene, soon realise you can't cut the mustard with a Relco or Warrior shirt at an 'event'.

 

I've seen shit clobber at mod/skin events. But this is usually from 'norms' (for want of a better term) that aren't really into it all, OR are experimenting with the scene.

If you haven't got the dosh to spend, fair enough, improvise. Do the best you can. Nothing wrong with that. A great deal of my wardrobe is good quality second hand.But I do my best to look smart,clean and presentable.

 

Saying that, as soon as I'm pissed. All my good intentions go straight out the window. And I'm lucky to get home with both brogues biggrin.gif

 

(with regards to fakes. I've NEVER seen a decent fred perry fake. I bet there are some out there. But i've never seen one. The easiest way to tell in my experience, is the tension in the arm cuff elastic, if the laurel isn't an easy giveaway)

post #8711 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundsnpressure View Post

(with regards to fakes. I've NEVER seen a decent fred perry fake. I bet there are some out there. But i've never seen one. The easiest way to tell in my experience, is the tension in the arm cuff elastic, if the laurel isn't an easy giveaway)
I naively/accidentally purchased a fake about 10 years ago on eBay, and this was my experience with the elastic too - especially after a wash. However, as MikeDT suggests, if it is from an "unauthorised second-run production", it would be 100% identical and you'd never know.
post #8712 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Vaughan View Post

i'm astonished - and not a little disappointed - by the prices of FP gear nowadays.
I seem to remember it was on a par - or slightly cheaper - than Slazenger back in the 60s and 70s.
£175 for a Harrington and £100 for a very average-looking shirt? icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
I could see the point if the gear was genuinely original (ok - old)... as opposed to re-issued clobber that could be knocked-up in some Chinese sweat shop.
Maybe I'm grumpy 'cos I'm old. satisfied.gif
I'm right with you. When I can buy a perfect fitting MTM shirt that I pick out all the details of for the same price, there's not much of a decision involved.
post #8713 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by HughJ View Post

I naively/accidentally purchased a fake about 10 years ago on eBay, and this was my experience with the elastic too - especially after a wash. However, as MikeDT suggests, if it is from an "unauthorised second-run production", it would be 100% identical and you'd never know.

There's also seconds/rejects as well. They'll inevitably be items made that don't meet whatever quality standards laid down by the client. The factory won't destroy them when they can sell them. I noiced today that one of the local stores, got a load of Dr. Marten boots in. Think there's a lorry comes from Beijing every six weeks or something. Will have a closer look later in the week see what they're actually like. I've bought quite a few items like this in the last couple of years, shoes, coats, jackets, shirts. Quality is always good, not poor quality counterfeits.

I avoid anything that I think is blatantly counterfeit, misspelled words, horrible stiching, poor quality, plastic instead of leather, etc. Because sometimes these things can be so bad, they only last a few weeks or months. Popular with the students though, because they seem to like the logos....bless their little brand whoring LV cotton socks.

I'm sure there's supposed to be two Gs in "Giorgio"...

...doesn't seem to matter anyway, most people here can't read English or Italian.
Edited by MikeDT - 8/20/12 at 8:14am
post #8714 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by ek77 View Post


if you followed the whole thread you would know, that alot of the old ones on here allready posted that they and other kids didnt had the money for all the original brands back in the days....
and in 2012, i still would prefer any non brand made in the 70s button down shirt, over these so called skinhead brands made in china now.....

I was one of those kids who never had a pair of Levi sta prest .. we used to be 11 /12 yr old kids who drew pics of Skinheads at school and who knew every colour going but could only watch the older boys bowl up and down like pea cocks ...  off the top of my head - off white / petrol blue / navy / olive green ( think they were known as 'bottle green ' ) pea green , charcoal , a grey that seemed to be in a thin wool ? and that older kids wore to school as part of uniform ..  my old dear won a £100 at bingo in 70 and gave me a fiver i got my first Jaytex and levis with that .. wore em all summer up until xmas .

post #8715 of 19164
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT View Post


It's not just about visible labels and logos and what company made a particular garment, Which is brand whoring, something I very much detest. Thing is most of these famous brands now bare absolutely no relation to what they once where. Fred Perry is owned by some Japanese fashion conglomerate, Crombie is owned and run by a bank, and Levi is a huge multinational mega-corporation. All their products come from cheap sweatshop labour here in far-east, and sold for sky-high prices in the west. Think the worst examples are Emporio Armani, Abercrombie & Fitch and Dolce & Gabbana.

Just want to point out that Levi's IS a global corporation with stores, factories, and offices everywhere, but at the end of the day it is still owned by descendants of Levi Strauss, not shareholders, conglomerates, banks etc. 

Also, if you are prepared to pay a premium for quality, there are quite a lot of made in the USA Levi's available, especially in the Levis Vintage Clothing range. 

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