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post #8131 of 12472
7/5/12 at 8:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttons View Post

Apart from a few more obscure pre-skinhead ones and the Beach Promotion one that came with matching trunks, all the skinhead period Ben Sherman buttons downs (from what I've gathered, looking at a LOT of them) have fully sewn in box pleats and 2 darts for a slimmer, more waisted look. As Brownie says though, they lost the pleat when the Beagle collars came in, whereas many other manufacturers kept their pattern the same from their buttons downs and purely changed the collar (retaining the pleat, darts, fancy sleeves etc), to continue to cash in on the popularity of the 'skinhead checks'.
Pretty much all the British button downs aimed at the skinhead market had full pleats (including Brutus, Jaytex, Arnold Palmer, Pagasus, Peter Gunn, Slimline, Slim Fit, Slim Jim etc etc, even the really cheap ones from the likes of Fine Fare!)
Yank versions (usually) had pleats at the top which faded out.
(American company) H.I.S. offered their "Neat-Pleat" (around '67 I believe) which was stitched in to the waist, then flared out for comfort. A couple of English makes copied this - would have to check which when I get home as I've got a couple from '69.

I just cant remember Ben Shermans with sewn in box pleat, but i do remember all the American imports i bought from the Squire shop, They was so cool at the time and most people never had em. smile.gif
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post #8132 of 12472
7/5/12 at 10:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttons View Post

Apart from a few more obscure pre-skinhead ones and the Beach Promotion one that came with matching trunks, all the skinhead period Ben Sherman buttons downs (from what I've gathered, looking at a LOT of them) have fully sewn in box pleats and 2 darts for a slimmer, more waisted look. As Brownie says though, they lost the pleat when the Beagle collars came in, whereas many other manufacturers kept their pattern the same from their buttons downs and purely changed the collar (retaining the pleat, darts, fancy sleeves etc), to continue to cash in on the popularity of the 'skinhead checks'.
Pretty much all the British button downs aimed at the skinhead market had full pleats (including Brutus, Jaytex, Arnold Palmer, Pagasus, Peter Gunn, Slimline, Slim Fit, Slim Jim etc etc, even the really cheap ones from the likes of Fine Fare!)
Yank versions (usually) had pleats at the top which faded out.
(American company) H.I.S. offered their "Neat-Pleat" (around '67 I believe) which was stitched in to the waist, then flared out for comfort. A couple of English makes copied this - would have to check which when I get home as I've got a couple from '69.

Blimey Buttons, I had not even heard of some of the Shirt Manufacturers you mentioned.Its funny,I was ironing an 90s BS and it did not have a permanent "Box Pleat".
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post #8133 of 12472
7/5/12 at 10:57am

Ivy Oxford (which never need ironing..... yeah Right!) Had the same sort of pleat you described on the H.I.S. Shirt.

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post #8134 of 12472
7/5/12 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by browniecj View Post

Blimey Buttons, I had not even heard of some of the Shirt Manufacturers you mentioned.Its funny,I was ironing an 90s BS and it did not have a permanent "Box Pleat".

Later Ben Shermans had the flared out pleat, All 90s ones were like this untill the later Mod Fit ect came out. I believe like Buttons said that all 60s Ben Shermans had full sewn in pleats. In fact he's really clued up on his shirts as you can see.
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post #8135 of 12472
7/5/12 at 2:52pm

Cant say ive been impressed with anything Ben sherman have released shirt wise in a while tbh, shame as they've made some corkers in the past
 

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post #8136 of 12472
7/5/12 at 9:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post

I do remember all the American imports i bought from the Squire shop, They was so cool at the time and most people never had em. smile.gif

Damn right, Roy! biggrin.gif
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post #8137 of 12472
7/5/12 at 9:15pm
(Just a note to say I'll be away until the 15th. Catch you all later.)
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post #8138 of 12472
7/5/12 at 9:21pm

I'd be keen to pick your brain a little buttons. I am heading over to india in a short while to build a few scoots and I like to get as much tailoring done while i'm there as i can. This time I'm hoping to befriend a couple of the better tailors I can find and do a little schooling while i'm there. Luckily being mates with an anglo is something that has a bit of cache amongst indian blokes so it is pretty easy to network over there. I basically just showed up at the door of the two biggest Lammy blokes in the country and ended up working with them to get a half decent bespoke scoot service off the ground. I just have to keep the both of them separate from each other as they are in direct competition and don't really see eye to eye.

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post #8139 of 12472
7/5/12 at 11:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttons View Post

Apart from a few more obscure pre-skinhead ones and the Beach Promotion one that came with matching trunks, all the skinhead period Ben Sherman buttons downs (from what I've gathered, looking at a LOT of them) have fully sewn in box pleats and 2 darts for a slimmer, more waisted look. As Brownie says though, they lost the pleat when the Beagle collars came in, whereas many other manufacturers kept their pattern the same from their buttons downs and purely changed the collar (retaining the pleat, darts, fancy sleeves etc), to continue to cash in on the popularity of the 'skinhead checks'.
Pretty much all the British button downs aimed at the skinhead market had full pleats (including Brutus, Jaytex, Arnold Palmer, Pagasus, Peter Gunn, Slimline, Slim Fit, Slim Jim etc etc, even the really cheap ones from the likes of Fine Fare!)
Yank versions (usually) had pleats at the top which faded out.
(American company) H.I.S. offered their "Neat-Pleat" (around '67 I believe) which was stitched in to the waist, then flared out for comfort. A couple of English makes copied this - would have to check which when I get home as I've got a couple from '69.


Morning buttons,
Just a quickie I have only ever seen one slim Jim!! was it a big make or small ?
Cause I could had one about two weeks a go! But when it come to getting a original 60's Ben sherman or a slim Jim there was no chance of me saying yes to a slim Jim lol (I no there must be really Rare cause only ever seen that one!)
When I get a chance I will post up pictures of some makes of original shirts like the buttons has mentioned to show some of you if anyone interested? or if buttons post up before me lol.

the square shop I've heard a lot about this!! Was it big back in the day??
And anyone ever heard of 'rosemans tailoring'??? I believe it was quite poplar with late mods and early skinheads in London in the 60's...
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post #8140 of 12472
7/6/12 at 12:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr twist tag View Post

Morning buttons,
Just a quickie I have only ever seen one slim Jim!! was it a big make or small ?
Cause I could had one about two weeks a go! But when it come to getting a original 60's Ben sherman or a slim Jim there was no chance of me saying yes to a slim Jim lol (I no there must be really Rare cause only ever seen that one!)
When I get a chance I will post up pictures of some makes of original shirts like the buttons has mentioned to show some of you if anyone interested? or if buttons post up before me lol.
the square shop I've heard a lot about this!! Was it big back in the day??
And anyone ever heard of 'rosemans tailoring'??? I believe it was quite poplar with late mods and early skinheads in London in the 60's...


The Ivy/Squire Shop was where the real smart Mods and Later Skinheads Bought their Royals and American cloths in the 60s/70s,
The prices was high, so it stopped a lot of skinheads shopping there, So the stuff you bought was not worn by the masses of Skinheads,
Also John Simmons would only order a certain amount of say a shirt patten/colour from the States say a hundred.. so the shirt would rare even at the time.

Their was three types of Skinheads,
Those who bought their kit at the Squire/Ivy shop,
Those who bought in the Highs St,
And those who bought the Cheap shit from the Markets, biggrin.gif
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post #8141 of 12472
7/6/12 at 3:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysgame View Post


Later Ben Shermans had the flared out pleat, All 90s ones were like this untill the later Mod Fit ect came out. I believe like Buttons said that all 60s Ben Shermans had full sewn in pleats. In fact he's really clued up on his shirts as you can see.

Not all the 90`s ones were like this Harry.Merc just off Carnaby Street were still selling Ben Shermans in the early to mid 90`s with full sewn in box pleats aimed for the skinhead market...

 

bs3.jpg

 

bs2.jpg

 

 

bs1.jpg

 

Although Merc stated that they were just like the 60`s ones,clearly they are not,but they were decent shirts and the best new ones on the market at that time.I did have 2 of them,but I`ve just sold one to a mate last week that sadly didn`t fit me right,but in my opinion,is a very nice shirt...

 

599158_4176571740707_318081406_n.jpg

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post #8142 of 12472
7/6/12 at 3:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr twist tag View Post


Morning buttons,
Just a quickie I have only ever seen one slim Jim!! was it a big make or small ?
Cause I could had one about two weeks a go! But when it come to getting a original 60's Ben sherman or a slim Jim there was no chance of me saying yes to a slim Jim lol (I no there must be really Rare cause only ever seen that one!)
When I get a chance I will post up pictures of some makes of original shirts like the buttons has mentioned to show some of you if anyone interested? or if buttons post up before me lol.
the square shop I've heard a lot about this!! Was it big back in the day??
And anyone ever heard of 'rosemans tailoring'??? I believe it was quite poplar with late mods and early skinheads in London in the 60's...

The Squire Shop(with a small write up and picture) and Rosemans Tailoring are both depicted in the inlay sleeve notes and pictures,of the Reggae Pressure cd album.


Edited by Shep - 7/15/12 at 2:01pm
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post #8143 of 12472
7/6/12 at 4:41am
I am sure Harry Fenton shirts was worn before Ben Shermans, Double Two also.??
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post #8144 of 12472
7/6/12 at 5:45am
Evolution?

Please tell me, this is none of you London boys, on the King's Road in '73 - now that's bad. biggrin.gif

KRChelsea.jpg

Website with a lot of KR imagery from 1967- 1974:

http://mydadsphotos.shendy.co.uk/tag/kings-road/

You just know that 3-4 years previously, these fellas would have been rolling about outside Stamford Bridge. satisfied.gif


Edit: From the above site, the front 'cash pocket' Roy was alluding to?

Most of my Tonik otp pants had these.

frontpocket.jpg

Woaaaa! Just spotted... 'wet look' shoes, too. satisfied.gif
Edited by Ed Vaughan - 7/6/12 at 6:52am
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post #8145 of 12472
7/6/12 at 10:42am

Its like Porn that site Ed, what with all those Dolly Bords ;) ;)


Edited by Gramps - 7/6/12 at 11:30am
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