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Mod to Suedehead - Page 542

post #8116 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post

Yes i have mentioned this before Alan, The tailor we went to in Kilburn we would let him get on with it, As a 15 year old in 69 I never had a clue what i wanted and relied on the tailor to make the suit that was in fashion so to speak, The trousers had a single pleat, cash pocket and two rear pockets all flapped, The suit i wear these days are the same as i wore back then, without the trousers above the ankle, Next time i see you, and I'am wearing a suit i will show you.
Regarding the shirts The American shirts from the Ivy/Squire shop did not have sewn in pleats, typical Ivy league style. Again all my shirts that i wear, these days, Ralph Lauren, Gant , Facconable BD Baggies do not have sewn in pleats.
Just going back to suits in 69/70 Off the peg suits would have flat fronted trousers, i also bought a nice pair of To Tone off the peg trousers from the Squire shop that was flat fronted,
Just to add again, not all BD Shirts has sewn in pleats... as i remember some lads would iron in the pleat then sew in little tags to hold the pleat in. I think the later Brutus and Jaytex had sewn in pleats, but i never wore them.
If you look at the photos that Bunty put up.. the lad is wearing single pleated trousers, I suppose as i said we just carried on with the late so called hard Mod look, Maybe MOM and Brownjei can put some input into this, but i think we have covered it before

Was this a common thing regarding the trousers and shirts or just something you preffered? I always thought it was only some later Ben Shermans that didn't have the sewn in pleat. I thought all the 60s ones had the pleat sewn in.

It would be good to hear if the other Originals on here wore their trousers and shirts like that.
I know we have covered suits pretty much. But i have been meaning to ask you about them since you first put it up here.
post #8117 of 18541
I see you covered my question on your later post Roy.

Thanks. We never stop learning do we.biggrin.gif
post #8118 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by the real spirit View Post

i mate tell us a bit about yourself, in and around m/c.

Try pages: 399, 445, 476 and all stops in between.smile.gif

I won't bore the rest of the forum repeating tales, so have a look at those pages - and the ones from the beginning - and you'll see some great memories from some daft old sods... and a few younger ones, too. satisfied.gif

Some brilliant pics and illustrations, too.

Take a day off work to do it - I did. nod[1].gifbiggrin.gif
post #8119 of 18541

Agreed Harry, i think what Roy is saying is a good example of the local/national variation thing, ive never had anything tailormade but have a good idea what i would like, i would imagine the overall style would be much the same as what you and Roy would have, but all three suits would have subtle differences due to personel tastes, body shape and the input of the tailor.

 Me mate Jimmer had a suit made two year ago and asked for it to have a long center vent and be very waisted the tailor ( italian ) tapped him on his stomach and told him it would not look good due to him being very big and muscley biggrin.gif, he was right, he ended up with a nice suit with his cut.
 

post #8120 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post

With the Originals it was all new for us back in the 60s, We seemed to make it up as we went along, everything i ever wore was copied off someone else, I may have had that hard to get hold of shirt but the stye was the fashion of the day, As a 15 year old in 69, My mates and i would look at the older gang members for cloths guidance 17/18 year olds, old men to us, smile.gif

Later 79/80s/90s Skinheads, had it all ready for them, they knew what the uniform was...we never had that, it was all new to us, When I hear Skinhead Moonstomp these days, I think to myself I heard that the week it came out, smile.gif

I'm with you there too, Roy. Sometimes though as an 18 y/o it was hard going if you weren't earning (I wasn't at the time, being a layabout... oops... I mean a student... same thing). I can't remember how I managed to do it, but I always managed to get my hands on the right clothes. It was all about the clothes and the music for me - typical ex-mod! biggrin.gif
post #8121 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by papyloic View Post

did you see "PLAY" magazine about comics, special skinhead issue in october 69? will post pics after Margate...biggrin.gif

I'll look forward to that.

I am trying to find a one-off cartoon from 'Shoot' magazine (I think). They were doing a series about types of football fan, and they had one called 'the Orang-U-Fan' - a kid in boots and braces who climbed up things...
post #8122 of 18541

All this talk of tailoring is making me cry... I had a chance at working for a pretty reputable tailor when I was around 16/17. They called it a traineeship but they didn't really teach me anything. Being a young twat I soon got bored and they gave me the shove after about 6 months. Now I realise they were probably just seeing if I had the patience to do the job and if I'd stuck it out I probably  would've done pretty well out of the thing. My mother is a gun dressmaker and the rag trade actually goes back a few generations in my family. A mate of mine has a tailor that he uses to get his gear made and he is now getting on in age. His kids aren't interested in following in his footsteps so I'm hoping he will be interested in helping me out to keep the flame burning. There is also a council of adult education here that runs various courses and a Tailor that cut his teeth on saville row is running some men's tailoring courses so hopefully I can get some half decent training before i'm too old to be able to do it. My mum still has all of her machines and it would be a pity for them to go to waste...
 

post #8123 of 18541
I remember the Bespoke Suits had the Crease to the Waistband-with the "Ticket Pocket" between the Crease and the Fly.On the "Off the Peg"Trousers,the Crease was not so prominent(but they were not "Flat Fronted").A good example of this,is in "Skinheads".The "Ticket Pocket" is over a bit on the Suit.Randys` Photos are from about `65 ish and show his Suit as made then or earlier(No "Ticket Pocket"),with a "Box Pleat"-I believe that was a carry over from the Italian Suits(Reggie Kray used to mainly wear them-Ronnie was into the "Double Pleated",Double Breasted Suits).The first time I came across "Flat Fronted" Trousers was when the Hipsters came out `63/`64, then you had the Slacks follow-so the Suits had to be smarter.

Roy,15/16 year olds were considered bloody kids-with us older ones !!!smile.gif
post #8124 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raff72 View Post

All this talk of tailoring is making me cry... I had a chance at working for a pretty reputable tailor when I was around 16/17. They called it a traineeship but they didn't really teach me anything. Being a young twat I soon got bored and they gave me the shove after about 6 months. Now I realise they were probably just seeing if I had the patience to do the job and if I'd stuck it out I probably  would've done pretty well out of the thing. My mother is a gun dressmaker and the rag trade actually goes back a few generations in my family. A mate of mine has a tailor that he uses to get his gear made and he is now getting on in age. His kids aren't interested in following in his footsteps so I'm hoping he will be interested in helping me out to keep the flame burning. There is also a council of adult education here that runs various courses and a Tailor that cut his teeth on saville row is running some men's tailoring courses so hopefully I can get some half decent training before i'm too old to be able to do it. My mum still has all of her machines and it would be a pity for them to go to waste...
 


A real shame you didn't stick at it mate , but as you say , you were young . I used to get my trousers tailored when i was a teen at a great place in Newcastle , reasonably priced at the time ( 1983 - '84 ) G.S Tailoring on Shields Road . 25 nicker , couldn't afford a full suit alas cry.gif I have just bought an "off the peg " Tonik suit from Adam's of London as i STILL can't afford to get one tailored and was wondering if anyone on the forum have had any before and wether they're worth the money .Cheers

post #8125 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raff72 View Post

All this talk of tailoring is making me cry... I had a chance at working for a pretty reputable tailor when I was around 16/17. They called it a traineeship but they didn't really teach me anything. Being a young twat I soon got bored and they gave me the shove after about 6 months. Now I realise they were probably just seeing if I had the patience to do the job and if I'd stuck it out I probably  would've done pretty well out of the thing. My mother is a gun dressmaker and the rag trade actually goes back a few generations in my family. A mate of mine has a tailor that he uses to get his gear made and he is now getting on in age. His kids aren't interested in following in his footsteps so I'm hoping he will be interested in helping me out to keep the flame burning. There is also a council of adult education here that runs various courses and a Tailor that cut his teeth on saville row is running some men's tailoring courses so hopefully I can get some half decent training before i'm too old to be able to do it. My mum still has all of her machines and it would be a pity for them to go to waste...

 

I was lucky to work in a "Gentlemans` Outfitters" when I was younger.The experience is still with me today-the finer Cloths and Weaves etc.


If I remember correctly,the Ben Shermans had the Box Pleat permanent,but the Brutus only had them sown down one side.After `70/`71 Ben Shermans dropped the Pleat and went with Patterns(Penny Collars).

I have Brooks Brothers,Hathaway and Van Heusan American Shirts with the "Iron-In" Pleats or "Darts".As Roy said,from the "Ivy Shop" you could only get American Shirts.
post #8126 of 18541
Hello gentlemen how's it all. Going hope everyone's fit and well' I always remember some of my strides ie me dog tooth and pow with one pleat front flap over money pocket, and one back pocket side adjusters , but on me tonics flat fronted as I remember . I remember having trousers made 30inch parallels big 3 belt waistband and 6 pleats reckon that was 72ish
post #8127 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by browniecj View Post

I was lucky to work in a "Gentlemans` Outfitters" when I was younger.The experience is still with me today-the finer Cloths and Weaves etc.
If I remember correctly,the Ben Shermans had the Box Pleat permanent,but the Brutus only had them sown down one side.After `70/`71 Ben Shermans dropped the Pleat and went with Patterns(Penny Collars).
I have Brooks Brothers,Hathaway and Van Heusan American Shirts with the "Iron-In" Pleats or "Darts".As Roy said,from the "Ivy Shop" you could only get American Shirts.
... suit you, sir!

(I'll get ma coat.) shog[1].gif
post #8128 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps View Post

I'd love to see that!!!!!!
Seeing as most people on here know me (some for considerable time) and I've never claimed to be either original nor 47. I'd also go as far to say, I wouldn't use the term "spirit of 69" as I find it equally as cringeworthy as "a way of life", "keep the faith" and "boss"
Please quote the aforementioned article, and if I have said this under some sort of drug or alcohol induced state, then I will apologise for any confusion, however, I don't think you will find it.

Totally agree about the cringeworthy phrases nod[1].gif

post #8129 of 18541
Quote:
Originally Posted by browniecj View Post

I was lucky to work in a "Gentlemans` Outfitters" when I was younger.The experience is still with me today-the finer Cloths and Weaves etc.
If I remember correctly,the Ben Shermans had the Box Pleat permanent,but the Brutus only had them sown down one side.After `70/`71 Ben Shermans dropped the Pleat and went with Patterns(Penny Collars).
I have Brooks Brothers,Hathaway and Van Heusan American Shirts with the "Iron-In" Pleats or "Darts".As Roy said,from the "Ivy Shop" you could only get American Shirts.

Apart from a few more obscure pre-skinhead ones and the Beach Promotion one that came with matching trunks, all the skinhead period Ben Sherman buttons downs (from what I've gathered, looking at a LOT of them) have fully sewn in box pleats and 2 darts for a slimmer, more waisted look. As Brownie says though, they lost the pleat when the Beagle collars came in, whereas many other manufacturers kept their pattern the same from their buttons downs and purely changed the collar (retaining the pleat, darts, fancy sleeves etc), to continue to cash in on the popularity of the 'skinhead checks'.

Pretty much all the British button downs aimed at the skinhead market had full pleats (including Brutus, Jaytex, Arnold Palmer, Pagasus, Peter Gunn, Slimline, Slim Fit, Slim Jim etc etc, even the really cheap ones from the likes of Fine Fare!)
Yank versions (usually) had pleats at the top which faded out.
(American company) H.I.S. offered their "Neat-Pleat" (around '67 I believe) which was stitched in to the waist, then flared out for comfort. A couple of English makes copied this - would have to check which when I get home as I've got a couple from '69.
post #8130 of 18541
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