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post #23761 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post

On an obscurantist sidenote, Lee Cooper (an East End brand) were mentioned on here many moons ago. Apparently, they were sometimes worn in London back in the day. Can anyone actually remember wearing them? And if so, did they look anything like their "classic straight fit for men with details inspired by our workwear heritage" aka "Harry"?

https://www.leecooper.com/en/made-to-make





I can confirm that the Lee Cooper jeans shown in the photos are totally different to the ones that were about in the late 60s.

What follows below is a recap, I guess, of what I have said before.

Recollections from Blackpool, 67/68:
All of the following brands of jeans were acceptable - Levis, Wrangler, Lee (Lee Rider), Lee Cooper. As I recall, they all looked pretty much the same - basic western jeans, not too skinny in the leg - apart from the stitching on the back pockets. Levis and Wranglers had the stitching we would recognise today; Lee had two slightly wavy lines and the back pocket had a slightly different shape. Lee Cooper had two(?) straight lines across the pocket. Wrangler rivets differed from the Levis ones (which other brands copied), inasmuch as Levis had the little nipple and Wranglers had flat-headed rivets, or slightly rounded maybe. This is recall - no doubt you researchers out there with degrees in Anorakology are able to quote chapter and verse.

There was a kind of pecking order. Levis - ace face. Wrangler - pretty cool. Lee and Lee Cooper - you're in the team. Anything else - we'll let you know. I was in the latter category, with a pair of Westcotts(?), which were at least a quid cheaper (that meant something back then!) until I got my first pair of Levis.

Jean jackets, on the other hand, tended to be Levis and Wranglers. I'm trying hard to recall ever having seen a Lee.

Recollections from London, 68 onward:

I don't think I saw anyone who didn't wear Levis.
post #23762 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post


I can confirm that the Lee Cooper jeans shown in the photos are totally different to the ones that were about in the late 60s.

What follows below is a recap, I guess, of what I have said before.

Recollections from Blackpool, 67/68:
All of the following brands of jeans were acceptable - Levis, Wrangler, Lee (Lee Rider), Lee Cooper. As I recall, they all looked pretty much the same - basic western jeans, not too skinny in the leg - apart from the stitching on the back pockets. Levis and Wranglers had the stitching we would recognise today; Lee had two slightly wavy lines and the back pocket had a slightly different shape. Lee Cooper had two(?) straight lines across the pocket. Wrangler rivets differed from the Levis ones (which other brands copied), inasmuch as Levis had the little nipple and Wranglers had flat-headed rivets, or slightly rounded maybe. This is recall - no doubt you researchers out there with degrees in Anorakology are able to quote chapter and verse.

There was a kind of pecking order. Levis - ace face. Wrangler - pretty cool. Lee and Lee Cooper - you're in the team. Anything else - we'll let you know. I was in the latter category, with a pair of Westcotts(?), which were at least a quid cheaper (that meant something back then!) until I got my first pair of Levis.

Jean jackets, on the other hand, tended to be Levis and Wranglers. I'm trying hard to recall ever having seen a Lee.

Recollections from London, 68 onward:

I don't think I saw anyone who didn't wear Levis.

 

M-o-M - Lee jackets were rare but I avoided saying 'not worn' as I am aware that there is a photo of a lad at the Twisted Wheel in one and should I have used the dreaded 'never' word, within hours that photo would have appeared on here!

post #23763 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by roytonboy View Post
 

 

M-o-M - Lee jackets were rare but I avoided saying 'not worn' as I am aware that there is a photo of a lad at the Twisted Wheel in one and should I have used the dreaded 'never' word, within hours that photo would have appeared on here!

I also seem to remember someone specifically mentioning that the Lee Rider jacket & Levi's 501 combo was popular... somewhere. The reason I recall this is because it inspired me to get my Lee raw denim jacket. Anyway, I'll try and find the relevant quote.

post #23764 of 24863
I'm still busy transcribing.

Around pp.1066-1068 there was some talk of 'safari jackets'. That puzzled me greatly. I never saw them except occasionally on the back of Peter-Wyngarde-lookalikes, or Roger Moore, or in old Stewart Granger movies. (see pics below). I certainly didn't see any mods or skinheads wearing them. I did see the occasional 'combat jacket', but that was quickly supplanted by the parka for mods, and combat jackets thereafter were the sign of a 'mid' (a bloke who kinda wasn't anything, but picked up what bits of mod or rocker clothing he liked and to hell with what anyone else thought). So what kind of jacket were we talking about back there?



post #23765 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by roytonboy View Post

M-o-M - Lee jackets were rare but I avoided saying 'not worn' as I am aware that there is a photo of a lad at the Twisted Wheel in one and should I have used the dreaded 'never' word, within hours that photo would have appeared on here!

I know what you mean. The only 'never' I can fairly apply is subjective, as in 'I never saw them'.
post #23766 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

I can confirm that the Lee Cooper jeans shown in the photos are totally different to the ones that were about in the late 60s.

What follows below is a recap, I guess, of what I have said before.

Recollections from Blackpool, 67/68:
All of the following brands of jeans were acceptable - Levis, Wrangler, Lee (Lee Rider), Lee Cooper. As I recall, they all looked pretty much the same - basic western jeans, not too skinny in the leg - apart from the stitching on the back pockets. Levis and Wranglers had the stitching we would recognise today; Lee had two slightly wavy lines and the back pocket had a slightly different shape. Lee Cooper had two(?) straight lines across the pocket. Wrangler rivets differed from the Levis ones (which other brands copied), inasmuch as Levis had the little nipple and Wranglers had flat-headed rivets, or slightly rounded maybe. This is recall - no doubt you researchers out there with degrees in Anorakology are able to quote chapter and verse.

There was a kind of pecking order. Levis - ace face. Wrangler - pretty cool. Lee and Lee Cooper - you're in the team. Anything else - we'll let you know. I was in the latter category, with a pair of Westcotts(?), which were at least a quid cheaper (that meant something back then!) until I got my first pair of Levis.

Jean jackets, on the other hand, tended to be Levis and Wranglers. I'm trying hard to recall ever having seen a Lee.

Recollections from London, 68 onward:

I don't think I saw anyone who didn't wear Levis.

Thanks to my degree in Denimology, i can tell you that the levi's arcuates (pocket stitching) are supposed (most probably the origin is lost and this is marketing. what is certain is that Levi was the first to stitch arcuates on back pockets) to represent the shape of the American eagle flying, while on the Lees they are said to be bull's horns. The arcuate stitching on Levi became synonymous with Levi's jeans by 1900, but came much later on Lees, who first had no stitching on the pockets, then simple lines across the pockets, tried some similar to Levi, and finally adopted the bull's horn design (also called 'lazy S') in 1944.
The typical Wrangler W stitching was adopted in 1948.
post #23767 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinny legs View Post

Brutus, who were associated with skinhead button downs, were pretty big in the jeans world in the 70s I recall. Anyone else remember the advert, in which David Dundas sung- I pull Brutus jeans on....I pull my Brutus jeans on.....
Nostalgia aint what it used to be....

I think their jeans were introduced some time after their shirts though, around 1973/74. Brutus, Lee Cooper and Falmer - the Denim, Hai Karate and Brut of the jeans world.

Jean Jeanie, Jean Machine, jumpers for goalposts, etc...
Edited by covskin - 7/9/16 at 4:09am
post #23768 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

Thanks to my degree in Denimology, i can tell you that the levi's arcuates (pocket stitching) are supposed (most probably the origin is lost and this is marketing. what is certain is that Levi was the first to stitch arcuates on back pockets) to represent the shape of the American eagle flying, while on the Lees they are said to be bull's horns.

Just clarify whether you mean Lee/LeeRider or Lee Cooper there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

The arcuate stitching on Levi became synonymous with Levi's jeans by 1900, but came much later on Lees, who first had no stitching on the pockets, then simple lines across the pockets, tried some similar to Levi, and finally adopted the bull's horn design (also called 'lazy S') in 1944.
The typical Wrangler W stitching was adopted in 1948.

Ditto, please.

The straight-across stitches were what I saw in 1968 on Lee Cooper jeans.
post #23769 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

Just clarify whether you mean Lee/LeeRider or Lee Cooper there.
Ditto, please.

The straight-across stitches were what I saw in 1968 on Lee Cooper jeans.

I mean Lee USA of course.
post #23770 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post

I also seem to remember someone specifically mentioning that the Lee Rider jacket & Levi's 501 combo was popular... somewhere. The reason I recall this is because it inspired me to get my Lee raw denim jacket. Anyway, I'll try and find the relevant quote.

Surely 502 (zip) not 501 (buttons) - good luck finding a shrink-to-fit 502 these days though (the rumpled zip is not actually a problem). So how did the Lee jacket turn out? I remember some ambiguity in its description (dry, raw, rigid so shrink-to-fit? - even though a Lee jacket?!?).

(the number 502 has since been reused by Levi to mean something other than a 501 with a zip)
Edited by covskin - 7/9/16 at 10:28am
post #23771 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinny legs View Post


It's amazing what difference 200 miles makes. Down in the smoke Id hazard a guess that Levi's wearers outnumber their Wrangler counterparts by at least 20 to one- albeit that the vast majority of purveyors of both are straights with no recognisable sense of style.

The cause of this imbalance is no doubt mostly down to marketing and the number of outlets that flog the respective products.
A bit like during the Mod heyday Lambrettas outnumbered Vespas- they had a bigger advertising budget and more numerous vendors
hiya mate I'm from Sheffield too.the old st Michael v necks are great lambswool quality. I picked up a couple for 2 quid in charity shop down Hillsborough. I got a pair of the Lee 101z too. Give em a hot soak. They shrink a bit (they are pretty shrunk) but the size and shape alter for the better. Lvc 1967 505s are good too and date accurate for first wave skins
post #23772 of 24863
Sorry. That was meant to reply to donkey jacket. (New here, not sure how it worked)
post #23773 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

I'm still busy transcribing.

Around pp.1066-1068 there was some talk of 'safari jackets'.
 So what kind of jacket were we talking about back there?

Not sure about which one was talked about then ,but Leather Safari jackets were a post suedehead thing for a brief moment.Seen worn with salt and pepper tweed flares,lambswool polo neck sweaters,long hair and Toppers ! Very much a  Wynegard / Bodie and Doyle look IMO.

 

 

 

post #23774 of 24863
Quote:
Originally Posted by benj84 View Post


hiya mate I'm from Sheffield too.the old st Michael v necks are great lambswool quality. I picked up a couple for 2 quid in charity shop down Hillsborough. I got a pair of the Lee 101z too. Give em a hot soak. They shrink a bit (they are pretty shrunk) but the size and shape alter for the better. Lvc 1967 505s are good too and date accurate for first wave skins

hehe hi mate i'm not from Sheffield but Mexborough, although Sheffield is only a 30 minute train ride away and some of the second hand clothes shops have decent stuff sometimes, i saw a lovely st micheal waffle knit cardigan in dark green online but it was sold unfortunately.

post #23775 of 24863

Suprised to learn Lee Cooper was a East London brand .. always thought they were American 

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