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Mod to Suedehead - Page 1584

post #23746 of 24870
I cant actually think of many places round here what sell designer jeans apart from debhanams and maybe marks, there is market stall in barnsley what sells wrangler jackets and jeans, no levis tho. i think most people wear cheap tesco/asda/primark denim to be fair.
post #23747 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newton heath View Post


hi dj, by coincidence I was in one of manchesters top shops today ,and was talking to a very knowledgeable sales person about Levi's and wranglers, he reckons he sells more wranglers than Levi's for various reasons, 1 wranglers seem to fit better around the waist.2 they seem to look and fit better on the " older"person. And 3, he feels they are better quality, he also added than customers who take a pair of Levi's and wranglers to try on are more likely to buy the wranglers,maybe it's still a northern thing

Never known any Londoner to wear Wrangler jeans .. Lee were  seen as acceptable if my memory's correct .

post #23748 of 24870

On an obscurantist sidenote, Lee Cooper (an East End brand) were mentioned on here many moons ago. Apparently, they were sometimes worn in London back in the day. Can anyone actually remember wearing them? And if so, did they look anything like their "classic straight fit for men with details inspired by our workwear heritage" aka "Harry"?

 

https://www.leecooper.com/en/made-to-make

 

post #23749 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

Not to rain on your parade, mate - but I swear several hundred pages back an original (BrownieCJ?) told us that sewing in turn-ups had primarily been about "showing off the selvedge".

 

Anyway, if it turns out that you're right I'll get turn-ups sewn into that pair of non-selvedge 501s from ebay I've got lying around here - and defeat critics with my newly acquired knowledge (internal turn-ups was the original plan).

I think Roy and I had a conversation on here regarding selvedge? I never recall it being recognised as a detail that was important (or aware of ?).Things like the loop on your shirt,seam on the heel of your Loafers,or re-placement of your jacket Levi Label….was.

Roy disagrees with me.

My recollections are that Pre '69 era jeans were worn predominantly with shoes and were  worn without showing any of the inside of the jeans.I am guessing that with the move toward boots that evolved into rolling up your jeans to the desired length (like shirt sleeves) and then progressed to the more refined/permanent stitched in turn up.

post #23750 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

On an obscurantist sidenote, Lee Cooper (an East End brand) were mentioned on here many moons ago. Apparently, they were sometimes worn in London back in the day. Can anyone actually remember wearing them? And if so, did they look anything like their "classic straight fit for men with details inspired by our workwear heritage" aka "Harry"?

 

https://www.leecooper.com/en/made-to-make

 


I had a pr of Lee Cooper jeans and  they looked nothing like that.They were very lightweight in comparison to the more desireable Lee,Levi,or Wranglers of the day.The fit was quite narrow and they didn't fade very well.I think i recall some cord jackets that were almost acceptable though?

post #23751 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post
 

Roytonboy, does it mean that the 'suedehead' considered the Lee Rider of lesser quality than Levi's or Wrangler ?

It surprises me a bit, as Lee is after Levi's the older historical jeans brand. And i think they are better quality than Wrangler (personal preference too !).

Is it a regional thing, or maybe the Lees were harder to find in your area ('None too common all over land' to quote J.Ferguson, but 'especially popular in the North before Levi's became widely available. Just as good too' to quote G.Marshall) ? Or was it just a fashion choice ?

 

Another question, i noticed you didn't put in you list the DM 'smooth' shoes. I remember that Mr Knightley/Brideshead and Browniecj said they wore them in 1970. Is it a regional thing again ?

 

And on the denim jacket subject, what about the Lee Rider Jacket ?

 

I think this underlines the point made recently made by Mr. Knightly - we look back on things with a greater inquisitive eye than we had at the time. As ever, the following are only my observations and shouldn't be taken as the definitive answer.

 

1) Lee Rider jeans weren't often seen in our area. They were harder to come by but that may have made them more desirable to some individuals. Lee Rider denim jackets were seen but again, far less common than Levi or Wrangler. In our area (Greater Manchester) Levi Jackets were the most popular followed by Wrangler.

 

2) Turn-ups. When you sat in the bath in your Levi's it was unusual  to find that they had shrunk perfectly, hence the need to turn them up. I always thought they were turned up to get them to 'hang right'  as in the photo posted by M-o-M above - as a Mod, the lad is not trying to show off his boots, but to have a stylish look. Greasers wore their shapeless jeans long and scruffy - we did the opposite. Once the style of narrow turn-ups was established, people turned their jeans up even if they weren't shrink to fit, so Wranglers were turned up even though not Selvedge. Through personal preference I wore Levis and whilst I was aware the seam was different I had never heard the word 'selvedge'. Therefore, in our area turn-ups were not to show off the selvedge, (maybe, when Levis first started to be worn, this was a reason but I never heard of that at the time) but to get the jeans to have the correct line.

 

3) In our area, Wranglers were much more common than Levi Jeans. They were slightly cheaper, a little wider and had that faded 'worn-in' look a bit quicker. I think the fact that they were slightly wider was the main attraction. (also, sitting in the bath in your Levi's was a good laugh the first time, but a bit of a pain by your third pair!) During 'skinhead' (1968-1971) I would say the ratio was about 4:1 in favour of Wranglers. By 'Suedehead' (1971) we were wearing our trousers a bit wider (known as parallels) and so the wider jeans were even more popular - the wearing of Levi's became quite rare - even I bought a pair of Wranglers. Thinking about it now, there was probably a gradual shift away from Levis (which had been popular in the late mod period 1967/68) to Wranglers during the skinhead period so the ratio of Wranglers to Levis increased year by year. For instance, I was wearing Levi's before I became a skinhead but lots of people who became a skinhead after me wore Wranglers. (I also agree with Newton Heath, Wranglers are a better fit around the waist - though through pure snobbery I wear Levis and not Wranglers!)

 

4) I don't recall anyone wearing DM shoes at the time. In fact,  the first time I remember seeing them worn as a fashion item was in the mod/skinhead revival period 1979/80.


Edited by roytonboy - 7/8/16 at 1:33am
post #23752 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by roytonboy View Post
 

 

I think this underlines the point made recently made by Mr. Knightly - we look back on things with a greater inquisitive eye than we had at the time. As ever, the following are only my observations and shouldn't be taken as the definitive answer.

 

1) Lee Rider jeans weren't often seen in our area. They were harder to come by but that may have made them more desirable to some individuals. Lee Rider denim jackets were seen but again, far less common than Levi or Wrangler. In our area (Greater Manchester) Levi Jackets were the most popular followed by Wrangler.

 

2) Turn-ups. When you sat in the bath in your Levi's it was unusual  to find that they had shrunk perfectly, hence the need to turn them up. I always thought they were turned up to get them to 'hang right'  as in the photo posted by M-o-M above - as a Mod, the lad is not trying to show off his boots, but to have a stylish look. Greasers wore their shapeless jeans long and scruffy - we did the opposite. Once the style of narrow turn-ups was established, people turned their jeans up even if they weren't shrink to fit, so Wranglers were turned up even though not Selvedge. Through personal preference I wore Levis and whilst I was aware the seam was different I had never heard the word 'selvedge'. Therefore, in our area turn-ups were not to show off the selvedge, (maybe, when Levis first started to be worn, this was a reason but I never heard of that at the time) but to get the jeans to have the correct line.

 

3) In our area, Wranglers were much more common than Levi Jeans. They were slightly cheaper, a little wider and had that faded 'worn-in' look a bit quicker. I think the fact that they were slightly wider was the main attraction. (also, sitting in the bath in your Levi's was a good laugh the first time, but a bit of a pain by your third pair!) During 'skinhead' (1968-1971) I would say the ratio was about 4:1 in favour of Wranglers. By 'Suedehead' (1971) we were wearing our trousers a bit wider (known as parallels) and so the wider jeans were even more popular - the wearing of Levi's became quite rare - even I bought a pair of Wranglers. Thinking about it now, there was probably a gradual shift away from Levis (which had been popular in the late mod period 1967/68) to Wranglers during the skinhead period. For instance, I was wearing Levi's before I became a skinhead. (I also agree with Newton Heath, Wranglers are a better fit around the waist - though through pure snobbery I wear Levis and not Wranglers!)

 

4) I don't recall anyone wearing DM shoes at the time. In fact,  the first time I remember seeing them worn as a fashion item was in the mod/skinhead revival period 1979/80.


Thanks Roytonboy, great reply, as expected.

On the DM shoes subject, maybe they were still quite rare in your area at the time ? (They appear on the '1970' drawing of J.Ferguson, same year than MrK and Brownie wore them.)

I had my first pair of DM shoes in 1979 - yes they were THE fashion item at the time (boots too of course), and i always had a pair in my wardrobe since that time, i find them very comfy and versatile. TBH i have several pairs at the moment !

Cheers

C.

My favorite DMs at the moment. MIE 'Steed'


Edited by Clouseau - 7/8/16 at 2:48am
post #23753 of 24870
Just my two cents - Wranglers were far and away the most common jeans on everyone 'when I were a lad' in the north east in the seventies, including boot boys. Only the hems got wider to suit the fashions of the time.

I also had a pair of three holer DM shoes for starting the third year Senior's in September 1978. I wore them every day for school plus before that I wore them every early morning working as a milk boy six days a week before school. They held up throughout the school year and then well into the the next for the milk round but by September 79 I think I had some mocassins for school.
post #23754 of 24870

any idea what these are? they have pockets/ crease like sta prest and quite baggy, only cost me 2 quid.

 

 

post #23755 of 24870
St. Michael was the brand name used by Marks and Sparks. I've been away a long time, no idea if they still use it or binned it ages ago!
post #23756 of 24870
They are generic trousers by M&S and look a bit baggy and 90s.
Edited by covskin - 7/8/16 at 11:45am
post #23757 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thin White Duke View Post

St. Michael was the brand name used by Marks and Sparks. I've been away a long time, no idea if they still use it or binned it ages ago!

They stopped using that brand name around 2000, i heard there was st micheal sta prest from someone on facebook so thats why i bought them. no great loss.

post #23758 of 24870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfama View Post


Hey all, long time lurker here (about 3-4 years). Never posted but always loving the knowledge, stories, etc.
Anyway, I got hold of a pair of boots today, like new and never worn, and wondering if anyone can shed any light on them.
They have Dr Martens branding, they say 'Southerner' on the side, have a steel toe, and all of the styling of the Hawkins Astronaut but with 10 holes instead of 11. The leather on them feels a somewhat stiff - more-so than I recall my pair of deadstock Hawkins being back in the 90s.

Searching through this thread for info all I could find is that ek77 has a pair that look very similar.

Got the boots for $65 Canadian which feels like a steal. Much nicer than the Solovair Southerners too IMO.
Pictures are louder than words so here a some shots.









Any details as to date, etc (I'm guessing early 80s) would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Hi,
I still own n wear my Southener boots from Doc Martens. You're right they are from early 80s. I bought 'em 1983 in London. But I guess yours are some reissue cuz mine have 11 holes and no "The Original" under the sole.
post #23759 of 24870
Brutus, who were associated with skinhead button downs, were pretty big in the jeans world in the 70s I recall. Anyone else remember the advert, in which David Dundas sung- I pull Brutus jeans on....I pull my Brutus jeans on.....
Nostalgia aint what it used to be....
post #23760 of 24870
Hello Kiki2708, and welcome. I can't give you any info on the boots, I'm afraid.
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