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post #23101 of 24881
I'm not convinced that the double-breasted suits that buttoned that high up were as a result of Bonnie and Clyde. That movie came out in 1967, and I remember the high-buttoning d/b suits before then, maybe a kind of mod-neo-Edwardian look. The gangster-style suits buttoned lower.

Here's an interesting set of piccolos! The one on the right is more... ahem... gangster era in design, but would probably have been a fairly stock tailor's design in its day. I'm sure I have seen other pics of the Kray boys in d/b suits, but can't locate them.

post #23102 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post

I'm not convinced that the double-breasted suits that buttoned that high up were as a result of Bonnie and Clyde. That movie came out in 1967, and I remember the high-buttoning d/b suits before then, maybe a kind of mod-neo-Edwardian look. The gangster-style suits buttoned lower.

Here's an interesting set of piccolos! The one on the right is more... ahem... gangster era in design, but would probably have been a fairly stock tailor's design in its day. I'm sure I have seen other pics of the Kray boys in d/b suits, but can't locate them.

 

 In 1967 or 1968 we went for a day out in Southport - there were scouse kids there wearing not only the Double - Breasted suits but also the hats as worn by  Warren Beaty, AKA Clyde. I took that to be an influence of the film - I hadn't seen many double breasted suits prior to that. I recall my Uncle Jim, on seeing mine, commenting on how he had noticed that they 'had come back into fashion'

post #23103 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inks View Post

I've read earlier down the thread about Dickies pants being an affordable alternative to Levi's Sta-Prest with our American cousins in the past. Obviously not the knee-padded or cargo-pants variety trousers. I've noticed a couple of styles, the 873 and 874 are very old school Sta-Prest looking. They have a decent rise, pretty good looking belt-loops, and most importantly they are straight legged and not too skinny. As mentioned before, yer Warriors and Relcos etc. are way to thin in the leg for someone without candlestick legs.
Being a 'footballer-legged' gent of advancing years, I wondered if anyone here has had any experience of those particular Dickies strides of late and whether they'd recommend them.
They come in a pretty decent array of colours for what are essentially work pants. I've seen them going for 45+ quid over here (not including p&p), but getting them straight from the US, they work out to about £27 including postage. The only other thing I've seen remotely Sta-Prest-like are some of the more plain Stromberg golf trouies, and they're a bit of a pisstake in the price department.
Unfortunately most of the deadstock/NOS Levi's Sta-Prest out there in ebay-land are the polyester jeans-type ones (usually boot-cut n'all)


Have you tried the Charles Tyrwhitt online shop,
They have what they call Non- Iron Chinos, look ok, got a variety of colours.
Not a bad price 50 notes pair or 80 for 2 pairs. Plus postage
They have what look like some nice Mereno wool v neck jumpers,
Don't know what the quality of their stuff is like, but no disrespect to Relco and Warrior, but anything has got to be better than them.
I have ordered a what looks like a nice navy and white striped tie just today, as I was given a £10 voucher of theirs.
If it's good quality and deliver is quick etc, then I might give one of them jumpers a go.
post #23104 of 24881

About 5 years ago my sons (then still in their teens) were buying new levis sta-prest from the now gone Levi Store opposite Bloomingdale's in Manhattan. I didn't have an original pair to compare them too, but they looked the part. They were also in the sale section, so they could not have sold well. I would have thought there would be dead stock of this re-issue about.

As for "Bonnie & Clyde" it was a huge selling point for high street mens retailer when it came out. John Pearce may have already mede that look for Brian Jones ? I don't know the Stones timeline that well - when was the cover of "Between The Buttons" shot ? Also the book "the Day of the Peacock" might help date the look. But remember it was someone high end like Hardy Amies  that was pushing the drape look when the Teds hijacked it, at that same time West Indian immigrants had already been wearing a similar style.  It is often the case that there is no single source for a look, but that re-magining of the American Gangster look was definitely pushed to the masses via Bonnie & Clyde.

post #23105 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post

Between '72 -'76 I recall it fluctuated between flares and bags,going back and forth a bit..French Flares with inverted seams,split knees,Salt and Pepper/Herringbone tweeds,High waisted etc.so it's hard to pin down and was certainly regional.The widest Bags I ever wore was in '74 and the widest Flares was '76 with clogs.
I remember turn ups coming into the equation as well. So sta-press type trousers, with a flare, and a turn up. About 1973 I reckon, probably earlier in London.
post #23106 of 24881

post #23107 of 24881


First time for turn -ups on flares  was with the Salt & Pepper as I recall.

post #23108 of 24881

 

Nik Louis button down in 8oz hemp\cotton
Life time guarantee
Complimentary alterations
Free international shipping
Made in USA
100 USD

post #23109 of 24881

This picture , was the first time I saw one of our heroes in a db suit. .

post #23110 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by con man View Post


Have you tried the Charles Tyrwhitt online shop,
They have what they call Non- Iron Chinos, look ok, got a variety of colours.
Not a bad price 50 notes pair or 80 for 2 pairs. Plus postage
They have what look like some nice Mereno wool v neck jumpers,
Don't know what the quality of their stuff is like, but no disrespect to Relco and Warrior, but anything has got to be better than them.
I have ordered a what looks like a nice navy and white striped tie just today, as I was given a £10 voucher of theirs.
If it's good quality and deliver is quick etc, then I might give one of them jumpers a go.


Used CT for years , mainly for shirts . The shirts are good quality as are the ties and are great for work . The ties do tend to be a bit wider than we would wear but when they throw you the kind of bargain you got , certainly worth a dip.

I'm aware of the trousers and I don't doubt the quality , I just reckon that it would involve a trip to the tailor to get them the way I want which obviously , in real terms makes the trouser more expensive. .

post #23111 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by con man View Post


Don't know what the quality of their stuff is like, but no disrespect to Relco and Warrior, but anything has got to be better than them.
 

 

My problem with Warrior and Relco sta prest is not so much the fit as the length. I'm tall. Relco and Warrior all supposedly finish at 31' inside leg. My normal inseam length being 34, this would be acceptable with high boots (but not shoes). Trouble being, the actual product varies in length and can be anything from 29.5' to 31. So a lot of the time, I have to send them back as they're so short as to look clownish.

 

That's also the reason why I'm wary of Jump the Gun and Mikkel Rude sta prest. I don't want to spend 50 or 70 quid for a pair of trousers that might turn out even shorter than stated in the description.

 

If anyone knows of decent quality, off white/stone sta prest that finish at 31.5' or 32' inside leg, I'd be grateful.

 

Edit: Quick question re the Dickes 873 mentioned earlier. do you have to size up as is the case with Warrior, Relco and Jump the Gun? My 'jeans waist' is 32, but my 'sta prest waist' is usually 34. Also: hmmmmm..... the rise looks rather low.


Edited by Bela Kun - 3/14/16 at 3:31am
post #23112 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

 

My problem with Warrior and Relco sta prest is not so much the fit as the length. I'm tall. Relco and Warrior all supposedly finish at 31' inside leg. My normal inseam length being 34, this would be acceptable with high boots (but not shoes). Trouble being, the actual product varies in length and can be anything from 29.5' to 31. So a lot of the time, I have to send them back as they're so short as to look clownish.

 

That's also the reason why I'm wary of Jump the Gun and Mikkel Rude sta prest. I don't want to spend 50 or 70 quid for a pair of trousers that might turn out even shorter than stated in the description.

 

If anyone knows of decent quality, off white/stone sta prest that finish at 31.5' or 32' inside leg, I'd be grateful.

 

Edit: Quick question re the Dickes 873 mentioned earlier. do you have to size up as is the case with Warrior, Relco and Jump the Gun? My 'jeans waist' is 32, but my 'sta prest waist' is usually 34. Also: hmmmmm..... the rise looks rather low.

 

The Jump the Gun trousers do have a generous hem on them . So you could drop them and then have your tailor fit a false hem to them . .;)

 

Hope that helps. .

post #23113 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

 

My problem with Warrior and Relco sta prest is not so much the fit as the length. I'm tall. Relco and Warrior all supposedly finish at 31' inside leg. My normal inseam length being 34, this would be acceptable with high boots (but not shoes). Trouble being, the actual product varies in length and can be anything from 29.5' to 31. So a lot of the time, I have to send them back as they're so short as to look clownish.

 

That's also the reason why I'm wary of Jump the Gun and Mikkel Rude sta prest. I don't want to spend 50 or 70 quid for a pair of trousers that might turn out even shorter than stated in the description.

 

If anyone knows of decent quality, off white/stone sta prest that finish at 31.5' or 32' inside leg, I'd be grateful.

 

Edit: Quick question re the Dickes 873 mentioned earlier. do you have to size up as is the case with Warrior, Relco and Jump the Gun? My 'jeans waist' is 32, but my 'sta prest waist' is usually 34. Also: hmmmmm..... the rise looks rather low.

Don't know about the 873 but the 874 are original fit high waisted that are slightly undersized and come up short if worn on the waist. 

post #23114 of 24881

Re: Double Breasted Jackets.  Tony Secunda (British Rock Manager) Was obsessed with the 30's Gangster look.He tried it first with The Move but didn't last long.He tried it again with more success with Paper Lace,most especially the cover of their(sic) LP. 

post #23115 of 24881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob the Badger View Post
 

Don't know about the 873 but the 874 are original fit high waisted that are slightly undersized and come up short if worn on the waist. 

 

I'm guessing a 34 for a 32 waist?  and 30 length legs if you want to show your boots off.

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