or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Mod to Suedehead
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Mod to Suedehead - Page 1495

post #22411 of 24880
As someone who's been hammered no end of times by uk customs, the best way round it is either proxy or get said company to take all tags off and wrap in a plain packaging with gift wrote on the purchased garment. If you can't implement either method, forget it. Not worth the hassle or fine!
post #22412 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post


Google 'incoterms'. Free international shipping is great but unless your delivery terms are DDP (delivered duty paid) then your customer has to pay customs duty, value added tax/sales tax and perhaps an administration fee - on top of what you charge - to import the item into their country. Seems to me you are delivering DDU (delivered duty unpaid) at the moment, none of the above costs are included in your price so any return would be far from cost-neutral so not as risk-free to the customer as you might think. To deliver DDP (delivered duty paid) would be a massive pain in the arse though - you need to open accounts with the customs authorities of every country you sell into then do their calculations yourself - perhaps best achieved by selling on some platform like Amazon who have themselves only recently worked all this shit out. Or maybe your international shipper can offer you this service?

I've shipped to Europe and Asia, never had a problem. 

post #22413 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul Vision View Post


  My pet hate is having a different pattern in your suit, tie and maybe jacket.  One of the guys from Blur is doing two out of three here and this is a look to avoid esp. when you are older though I wouldn't recommend it to anyone!

graham-coxon.jpg

And here's a blast from the past. How about this for a mix of checks!

post #22414 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob the Badger View Post

Me and my girlfriend bought 4 pairs of Lee Riders in a warehouse store near Brooklyn bridge. The assistant was a friendly old Jewish guy who gave us free Lee key fobs which I still have to this day. I think the jeans were less than half price compared to UK. I've loved Lee jeans ever since.

That is a good story , Bob . My first Lee Riders were bought n a shop in downtown San Francisco I can't remember the street name but it was adjacent to the tramline . I suspect it has long disappeared. .
post #22415 of 24880

When people say they wore Lee Riders back in the day, I'm still not sure what cut they're referring to.

 

Today, Lee has a '101z' model, which is a straight/regular fit. The small z denotes their classic/vintage cut range. They aren't Lee Riders, though.

 

 

 

Also worn by James Dean in the 1950s:

 

 

There's also a Lee Rider model - but it's slim fit rather than regular/straight.

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

So, which one resembles the Lee jeans worn by skinheads in the late 60s more closely?

post #22416 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

When people say they wore Lee Riders back in the day, I'm still not sure what cut they're referring to.

 

Today, Lee has a '101z' model, which is a straight/regular fit. The small z denotes their classic/vintage cut range. They aren't Lee Riders, though.

 

The small z is for zipper. So the 101z is the zipper version while the 101b is the buttons version.

 

There were a lot successive versions of the 101z Riders jeans. I think in the time the 101z and Riders were two names for the same jeans. Not exactly the case now.

 

The last contemporary Lee europe Riders have a slimmer cut indeed (especially for two years) compared to the vintage range by Lee Japan (made under license by Edwin).

 

There are other vintage versions made by Mc Coys too. Splendid, and with accurate details - not always the case with the Lee Japan (Edwin) range - but they come with a price.

 

I remember that a few years ago Bunty posted a picture of his older 'Original' brother wearing a pair of jeans that were identified as Lee Riders by several posters. They were quite slim.

 

I own a (Raw and still unwashed) Lee Europe Riders, 5 dips, made a few years ago, which is quite slim. I've got two 'vintage' (Sanforized) Lee Japan Riders not as slim, but slimmer than 501s. I've got too a recent Lee Europe 101z, and the cut is very similar to the cut of my Lee Riders Japan.

 

To summarize things a bit, like the 501s, the Lee Riders 101z Jeans went under, as years goes by, a lot of version (raw or sanforized denim; split, single, or even double selvedge, and without selvedge in the 70s), one major change was from 5 belt loops (1952) to 7 belt loops (appearing in 1959).

 

This is what i know, and it's much more complicated than that. Like with the 501s, the Lee jeans are a minefield.

post #22417 of 24880
Would be interested to hear more about Lee jeans myself. Agree with Clouseau that the cut changed but not sure when. The early 80s stonewash I had were a bit trimmer than previous with the taper continuing to the hem like your last photo (casuals used to cut the seams open at the hem) but that is about the limit of my knowledge. The leather patch though, that should be the joined-up writing version - the patch on the current Lee 101 is just too retro-anachronistic for me so I'm out. Selvedge is possibly anachronistic too on these.

I think the Lee 101/Lee Riders dichotomy you identify is a modern product-differentiation thing. Noticed there is a Lee Archives line like LVC but just ridiculously dirty 30s/50s stuff for hipsters by the look of it.
Edited by covskin - 11/23/15 at 6:03am
post #22418 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post
 

When people say they wore Lee Riders back in the day, I'm still not sure what cut they're referring to.

 

Today, Lee has a '101z' model, which is a straight/regular fit. The small z denotes their classic/vintage cut range. They aren't Lee Riders, though.

 

 

 

Also worn by James Dean in the 1950s:

 

 

There's also a Lee Rider model - but it's slim fit rather than regular/straight.

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

 

So, which one resembles the Lee jeans worn by skinheads in the late 60s more closely?

Remember all skinheads were under 18 and under 10 stone dropping wet .

post #22419 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by covskin View Post


I think the Lee 101/Lee Riders dichotomy you identify is a modern product-differentiation thing. (quote)
I think so.
Noticed there is a Lee Archives line like LVC but just ridiculously dirty 30s/50s stuff for hipsters by the look of it. (quote)

Actually they launched this line after they saw the success of LVC. And like with LVC, some models are good while some others are terrible.  As i said, in Japan most Lee repros (Archive/Vintage) are made by Edwin: The dry/raw ones are named “Lee Archives”, while the sanforized ones (usually cheaper) are sold as “Lee Vintage” .

 

Now, just for fun, there are some 'special' models. I can't tell you if the details are really accurate.

This one, from Lee Archives, is the "James dean" Riders version.

 

 

 

This one, by Real Mc Coy's, is the Robert de NIro's Riders model in Taxi driver

And this one, by Toys Mc Coy's, is the Steeve Mc Queen's Riders model in The hunter

 

And there are Lee jeans still sold in the USA too, but i don't know where they are made. They are cheap, usually anti-fit, TBH they don't look really good. The US Lee Riders line is for women...

You still can find from time to time some old Made In USA Lee Riders on Ebay though...

 

When i tell you it's a minefield...

post #22420 of 24880
Had a search through the thread for references to Lee Riders and it seems they are variously remembered as being both narrower than Levi's and wider than Levi's so that's that cleared up! Looking to create a timeline it seems that there was a Lee Archives 1966 version available at some point:

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=123

There is also a Lee Archives '1970 trim cut' version available in Japan according to this chart:

http://www.lee-japan.jp/archives/

So a change in cut from a 1966 version to a trimmer 1970 version could explain why Lee Riders are variously remembered here as being either narrower or wider than Levi's (the chart also indicates that Lee Riders/Lee 101 were in fact the same single model of jean, at least until diverging trim cut and boot cut versions appear in 1970). Cannot find a reliable full-length flat image of the Lee Archives 1966 version but here are the Lee Archives 1970 trim cut version for reference:

archives_1_11.jpg
Edited by covskin - 11/24/15 at 2:49am
post #22421 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bela Kun View Post


When people say they wore Lee Riders back in the day, I'm still not sure what cut they're referring to...

So, which one resembles the Lee jeans worn by skinheads in the late 60s more closely?

In 1967/8 in the North West of England, Levis were the jeans to get, followed by Wrangler, Lee (Rider), and Lee Cooper. Same as with Levis, we didn't seem to think numbers etc., we just went into the shops and bought the jeans by brand. Lee had the wavy lines on the back pocket, same as they seem to to today. Wrangler had a W, and Lee Cooper had straight lines. That was all we seemed to know about our jeans!

Or maybe I just wasn't paying attention.

In 1969 in London, I never saw anyone not wearing Levis. I even saw the occasional greaser in Levis and DMs, now I come to think of it!

Actually it strikes me that modern Lees (and Wranglers, for that matter) are a better fit than modern Levis.
post #22422 of 24880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post


In 1967/8 in the North West of England, Levis were the jeans to get, followed by Wrangler, Lee (Rider), and Lee Cooper. Same as with Levis, we didn't seem to think numbers etc., we just went into the shops and bought the jeans by brand. Lee had the wavy lines on the back pocket, same as they seem to to today. Wrangler had a W, and Lee Cooper had straight lines. That was all we seemed to know about our jeans!

Or maybe I just wasn't paying attention.

In 1969 in London, I never saw anyone not wearing Levis. I even saw the occasional greaser in Levis and DMs, now I come to think of it!

Actually it strikes me that modern Lees (and Wranglers, for that matter) are a better fit than modern Levis.

 

Indeed , you are right on the money there. It seems that every pair of 501 I have had was a different fit . I honestly can't remember what number I wore years ago but you are also right about the other brands having less variance . .

 

However , back in the day , when you got your first pair of levis you knew you were not going back to the other brands - then . .

post #22423 of 24880

Just a quick heads up: I saw a few pairs of Ralph Lauren 'Preppy Pants' at TK Maxx yesterday. They look very much like Brooks Brothers milano fit chinos to me - i.e. a somewhat slimmer, lower waisted version of the original Levi's Sta Prest. Permanent crease, anti-wrinkle fabric, look and feel really good quality. They only had size 35 (= too wide for me), the waist is a bit too low for my liking, and I can't find them on the TK Maxx Website. But who knows, your local branch might have your size available. The colour was 'plain sand', which at least in the poor artificial lighting looked like stone to me.

 

I understand Ralph Lauren was originally selling these for around 170 quid, and they're sold out everywhere now. TK Maxx is flogging them at 39.

 

 


Edited by Bela Kun - 11/25/15 at 2:58am
post #22424 of 24880

Just to add to the confusion, here's a Lee Riders add of 1955, offering 'slim', 'regular' and 'husky' styles.

 

 

 

I'm sure it was no different in the 1960s. So if skinheads really walked into a shop and grabbed whatever Lee Riders they were offered, oblivious to numbers and such, then maybe it's no surprise that they alternately remember Lee Riders as being 'slimmer' or 'wider' than Levi's.

 

Which I guess is good news for the new generation: whatever fit floats your boat, it's still a skinhead jeans.


Edited by Bela Kun - 11/25/15 at 9:40am
post #22425 of 24880
^ please not ever a boot cut though.

Going by a Lee point-of-sale label I just googled it seems that for Lee things nested as

Lee>Riders>number>z(ip) or b(utton)>cut

So looks like you could have regular, trim, full, boot cut under the one number. Unlike Levi's who had a different number for every zip/button and cut followed by a four digit colour code

Levi>tag colour>number>colour

(wrong model, year or even decade but this is the clearest Lee point-of-sale label I could find online)

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/66005950759286827/

d581b425d8b8bd885e367f4532c61bc3.jpg
Edited by covskin - 11/25/15 at 10:22am
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › Mod to Suedehead