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post #15346 of 18431

Sorry ,but I have no intention of sidetracking this thread,only discussing relevent points and possibilities.As someone who has spent a few years (8) owning a menswear business ,I admire,aand understand the difficulties that face the small independent  operator.Fo the likes of J Simon to still be alive and kicking in retail is both surprising (to me) and admirable.My original thoughts were how boring his operation now seems in this day and age compared to a somewhat similar Italian retailer.I think you could probably get anything J Simon sells elsewhere and cheaper,if that matters.

As someone who was clearly a driving force ,once upon a time,I can't help but think how interesting he could have continued to be if he had pursued a 'private label' business?

Imagine a choice of Crombie style coats in numerous different fabrics and colors.Linen,Suede,Cashmere Harringtons?Corduroy Jeans in every colour of Gelato? BD's again in different fabrics unique to him.Not easy,but just a thought...

post #15347 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

You have to be careful M-o-M mentioned today about too many old blokes wearing dodgy jeans..but with a bit of thought and some "inspiration" we will not end up looking like J Simon or the old chap in the pink hat.

1) I'm regularly the most stylish bloke of my age on the streets of Perth, and

2) that isn't saying much!
post #15348 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man-of-Mystery View Post


1) I'm regularly the most stylish bloke of my age on the streets of Perth, and

2) that isn't saying much!

1) Well done !

2) Sounds like Perth is much like Bristol ( and the rest of the country I suspect ),its all a bit sad.

3) You said that you would get back to posting longer posts,you should ( IMO ).

post #15349 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post
 

Sorry ,but I have no intention of sidetracking this thread,only discussing relevent points and possibilities.As someone who has spent a few years (8) owning a menswear business ,I admire,aand understand the difficulties that face the small independent  operator.Fo the likes of J Simon to still be alive and kicking in retail is both surprising (to me) and admirable.My original thoughts were how boring his operation now seems in this day and age compared to a somewhat similar Italian retailer.I think you could probably get anything J Simon sells elsewhere and cheaper,if that matters.

As someone who was clearly a driving force ,once upon a time,I can't help but think how interesting he could have continued to be if he had pursued a 'private label' business?

Imagine a choice of Crombie style coats in numerous different fabrics and colors.Linen,Suede,Cashmere Harringtons?Corduroy Jeans in every colour of Gelato? BD's again in different fabrics unique to him.Not easy,but just a thought...

 

Maybe its not the fabrics and colours that want a change but some of the styles ? ( still trying to imagine a cashmere Harrington though).

post #15350 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post
 

 

I have seen other Italian looks that I preferred but that's just me.

I like the blazer and flannels,its quite versatile could wear a John Smedley type shirt with it or POW trousers instead...I have got a couple of blazers but I would like a 3 button patch pocket one.

 

Should point out everything I wear there both in terms of silhouette style and wear it is made is 100% Italian. Italian style does not correlate to what those guys are doing. I dont mind Bright tie, shirt pochette etc, but these guys take it too far ? Pochette, scarf to match, a hat in the same shade, some pair of sunglasses to pick up the hue in your tie. Where does it end...thats when the clothes stop being serious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

About Mc Dermott post. Blazer and flannel, and jacket and polo neck are two classic looks i really appreciate, and very suedehead style.,Not too formal but smart....

Always dressed like that. Of course if i have a shirt made its a 3/4 finger collar, back button full pleat etc but as your style develops well for me its now also ivy league shirts, 2 button jackets, flannels etc.All part of the same thing in my eyes.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset View Post
 

Maybe it's just me, but im struggling with a lot thats been said on here of late, if i was gonna ' knock it in the head' as regards to my own style,

i'd look at the pics of the italians and draw inspiration from that, as opposed to some of the other general rubbish thats been talked of, i could make some more points, but tbh i've done that and cant be arsed.

 

Im off to iron me ruperts, i might even get some stacks, even thou i dont really like them, otherwise it's a world of dull grey, boring, sensible clothing

Like I say, if I were to knock it on the head not much would change - Turnups from jeans would disappear, trousers would get longer, shirts would be more Ivy styled...basically the older guys (most of them) on this thread. I agree re : thread going off on one but then again we cant always talk strictly 68-72 or things would get boring. Sometimes I like to see the guys here talking about things still somewhat in context but that often appears to make people remember stuff or ask more questions.

I wear ruperts as well as loud tonics, parallels, etc. Clothing needent be boring and grey, just not too far the other way..  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post
 

 

Nicely cut Blazer.Do you ever get taken as being Old Bill McDermott?

 

No. too young.... Often as the other side of that camp though, like some sort of Mobster henchman. (or so i like to imagine) :smarmy:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post
 

Sorry ,but I have no intention of sidetracking this thread,only discussing relevent points and possibilities.As someone who has spent a few years (8) owning a menswear business ,I admire,aand understand the difficulties that face the small independent  operator.Fo the likes of J Simon to still be alive and kicking in retail is both surprising (to me) and admirable.My original thoughts were how boring his operation now seems in this day and age compared to a somewhat similar Italian retailer.I think you could probably get anything J Simon sells elsewhere and cheaper,if that matters.

As someone who was clearly a driving force ,once upon a time,I can't help but think how interesting he could have continued to be if he had pursued a 'private label' business?

Imagine a choice of Crombie style coats in numerous different fabrics and colors.Linen,Suede,Cashmere Harringtons?Corduroy Jeans in every colour of Gelato? BD's again in different fabrics unique to him.Not easy,but just a thought...

Basicallly what I would love to accomplish. I like J.Simons but I agree Overpriced and generally 'safe'. Takes no risks or pushes things. people would argue thats Ivy but Ive alwalys loved the idea to get stuff made not commonly available. He does do a few shirts, but even then..

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post
 

 

Maybe its not the fabrics and colours that want a change but some of the styles ? ( still trying to imagine a cashmere Harrington though).

No..I think it works because the items we like are classics that descend time, bar the obvious stuff but even then ruperts could be worn in such a way to update them if you catch my drift. Barracuta did a cashmere one 

In a grey,brown navy etc. I'd wear it, but wouldnt have bought it for the money. But I think theres a market in that sort of stuff. Taking the classics and updating them. What would a skinhead wear, If he won the lottery ?

post #15351 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by McDermott View Post
 

 

Should point out everything I wear there both in terms of silhouette style and wear it is made is 100% Italian. Italian style does not correlate to what those guys are doing. I dont mind Bright tie, shirt pochette etc, but these guys take it too far ? Pochette, scarf to match, a hat in the same shade, some pair of sunglasses to pick up the hue in your tie. Where does it end...thats when the clothes stop being serious.

Always dressed like that. Of course if i have a shirt made its a 3/4 finger collar, back button full pleat etc but as your style develops well for me its now also ivy league shirts, 2 button jackets, flannels etc.All part of the same thing in my eyes.

 

Like I say, if I were to knock it on the head not much would change - Turnups from jeans would disappear, trousers would get longer, shirts would be more Ivy styled...basically the older guys (most of them) on this thread. I agree re : thread going off on one but then again we cant always talk strictly 68-72 or things would get boring. Sometimes I like to see the guys here talking about things still somewhat in context but that often appears to make people remember stuff or ask more questions.

I wear ruperts as well as loud tonics, parallels, etc. Clothing needent be boring and grey, just not too far the other way..

 

 

No. too young.... Often as the other side of that camp though, like some sort of Mobster henchman. (or so i like to imagine) :smarmy:

Basicallly what I would love to accomplish. I like J.Simons but I agree Overpriced and generally 'safe'. Takes no risks or pushes things. people would argue thats Ivy but Ive alwalys loved the idea to get stuff made not commonly available. He does do a few shirts, but even then..

 

No..I think it works because the items we like are classics that descend time, bar the obvious stuff but even then ruperts could be worn in such a way to update them if you catch my drift. Barracuta did a cashmere one

In a grey,brown navy etc. I'd wear it, but wouldnt have bought it for the money. But I think theres a market in that sort of stuff. Taking the classics and updating them. What would a skinhead wear, If he won the lottery ?

 

I did say that the "Milanese" look was too much for me ( although I think that the guys in the first pictures looked smart),so I agree with you there.

When I said that I liked the blazer and flannels  I did mean your pictures.

I also agree when you mention the matching accessories,i actually said "over accessorised" ( not sure if that's a word though ? ).

Personally I now prefer my shirt collars a two finger.

As for the thread going off  course,people keep saying that but not too many commented on the monkey boot pictures I put up so if it goes off course so what ? it does come back again  eventually ( well so far anyway ).

The blazer /flannels look is a classic IMO not just the coppers / squaddies image as some people say.

Now you have put up that picture of that Baracuta, I remember seeing a similar Paul Smith one at Bicester,not too sure about it really.

Funny that you should ask that about winning the lottery,because I was thinking about all my clothes and shoes the other day and wondering if my place burnt down  what I would buy to replace it all ( remembering that most of us probably have some old stuff that you cant get now) would be able to get a whole new look ?


Edited by cerneabbas - 10/9/13 at 11:00am
post #15352 of 18431

"Turnups from jeans would disappear, trousers would get longer, shirts would be more Ivy styled...basically the older guys (most of them) on this thread." (Well that's me...)

 

The Ivy influence was big in all Europe, i think. This is a rough translation of a short extract of a novel by Patrick Modiano, probably the greatest french writer alive. He was born in 1945, and he hanged out at the Drugstore...

 

In "De si braves garçons" 

 

"He wore Blazer and grey flannels, and for shoes Italian loafers. (...) He kept his hair short and liked to wear fawn suits, crepe sole shoes, and had a light sun tan all year long. He tried to keep the style of those who were the model of his generation : American sporstmen from the beginning of the fifties"

post #15353 of 18431

Speaking of Baracuta, I got an email in my inbox this morning advertising these monstrosities:

http://us.baracuta.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-WPBAWO-US-Site/en_US/Search-Show?cgid=br_fleece

 

 

 

a far cry from cashmere and the union flag on the collar takes the biscuit...

post #15354 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post
 

 

I did say that the "Milanese" look was too much for me ( although I think that the guys in the first pictures looked smart),so I agree with you there.

When I said that I liked the blazer and flannels  I did mean your pictures.

I also agree when you mention the matching accessories,i actually said "over accessorised" ( not sure if that's a word though ? ).

Personally I now prefer my shirt collars a two finger.

As for the thread going off  course,people keep saying that but not too many commented on the monkey boot pictures I put up so if it goes off course so what ? it does come back again  eventually ( well so far anyway ).

The blazer /flannels look is a classic IMO not just the coppers / squaddies image as some people say.

Now you have put up that picture of that Baracuta, I remember seeing a similar Paul Smith one at Bicester,not too sure about it really.

Funny that you should ask that about winning the lottery,because I was thinking about all my clothes and shoes the other day and wondering if my place burnt down  what I would buy to replace it all ( remembering that most of us probably have some old stuff that you cant get now) would be able to get a whole new look ?

 

You'd be able to replace your gear (I've thought of such a calamitous scenario myself), but it'd take time and would cause a great deal of frustration. There's plenty of deadstock clobber out there. But, like with ebay, you've got to trawl through 1000 items labelled as 'Mod' or 'Skinhead' to find one gem that is what it say it is. I've found a few beautiful 'NOS' genuine 60s items that were labelled as 'Disco' or 'Grunge' that if they were marked as 'Mod' or '1960s' would have been snapped up straight away. I usually go on US, French or German ebay, as British ebayers are a bit too clever for there own good. When I get into an ebay bidding war with what I can only assume is another UK Mod/Skin I know I'm either gonna lose, or pay well over the odds. That's why I stick to foreign sites where the other bidders are usually cheapskate Hipster dickheads who don't appreciate, or are unaware or the minutiae or subtle nuances in British subcultural style. The only things in the 'Ivy League' style that are more expensive in the US than here, are genuine vintage 'letterman cardigans' that start at around £100/$160, and I don't really like them anyway. The Americans seem to pay top dollar and over the odds for Rockabilly (Never get into a bidding war with an American for a pair of vintage jeans). I've learned that Tonik/Tonic is referred to as Sharkskin(everyone knows that) or 'Iridescent'(new to me).

As for a Skinhead that won the lottery ? If they're my age or older, they'd probably dress exactly the same (not as me, as their selves), but they'd probably have a few more bits of the good stuff.

post #15355 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inks View Post
 

 

You'd be able to replace your gear (I've thought of such a calamitous scenario myself), but it'd take time and would cause a great deal of frustration. There's plenty of deadstock clobber out there. But, like with ebay, you've got to trawl through 1000 items labelled as 'Mod' or 'Skinhead' to find one gem that is what it say it is. I've found a few beautiful 'NOS' genuine 60s items that were labelled as 'Disco' or 'Grunge' that if they were marked as 'Mod' or '1960s' would have been snapped up straight away. I usually go on US, French or German ebay, as British ebayers are a bit too clever for there own good. When I get into an ebay bidding war with what I can only assume is another UK Mod/Skin I know I'm either gonna lose, or pay well over the odds. That's why I stick to foreign sites where the other bidders are usually cheapskate Hipster dickheads who don't appreciate, or are unaware or the minutiae or subtle nuances in British subcultural style. The only things in the 'Ivy League' style that are more expensive in the US than here, are genuine vintage 'letterman cardigans' that start at around £100/$160, and I don't really like them anyway. The Americans seem to pay top dollar and over the odds for Rockabilly (Never get into a bidding war with an American for a pair of vintage jeans). I've learned that Tonik/Tonic is referred to as Sharkskin(everyone knows that) or 'Iridescent'(new to me).

As for a Skinhead that won the lottery ? If they're my age or older, they'd probably dress exactly the same (not as me, as their selves), but they'd probably have a few more bits of the good stuff.

The thing is though without all the stuff that you have collected ( and with the nice handful of cash ) would you replace it ?...its like your starting again ( but with the experience/knowledge that you have gained since you bought it )...I wouldn't replace the Alpha jacket  that I don't ever wear or the Bass weejuns..and so on ....yes some of it I would but I hope that I would take the opportunity to have a go at some different styles...for instance longer length casual jackets..less shoes but better quality ? a total rethink ?.....

post #15356 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post
 

The thing is though without all the stuff that you have collected ( and with the nice handful of cash ) would you replace it ?...its like your starting again ( but with the experience/knowledge that you have gained since you bought it )...I wouldn't replace the Alpha jacket  that I don't ever wear or the Bass weejuns..and so on ....yes some of it I would but I hope that I would take the opportunity to have a go at some different styles...for instance longer length casual jackets..less shoes but better quality ? a total rethink ?.....

True enough. I've had an Alpha Ma-1 for the best part of 18 years that I'm saving for the just the right occasion (decorating probably). I think buying a lot of other peoples vintage ebay stuff has made me stop throwing a load of stuff out myself. But yeah, there is a load of stuff I've never worn and never will, but will also never throw out or sell either(just in case).

The way I see it, there's four ways someone of our ilk could go if there was a sudden influx of unexpected monetary gain. The (lock up your granddaughters/sex-pest/bunga-bunga/I'm a mate of Silvio) Milanese way, the Guards/British officer in civvies style, the subtle Don Draper 60s dapper, or a paired-down-minimalist mix of the other three (which is basically a moneyed version of what we are already)

Last month, I caught the last train back from town. Far West London demographics as they are, I was one of only two white fellas on my carriage. The other white guy, was a Skin wearing 30-hole ox-blood Geta-Grips, an MA-1, bleach-splattered Levis that were so turned-up that they were essentially shorts. He was about 28. Myself, I had a shiny Mach 3 bonce, was wearing a four-finger madras BD under a beige Melka Statesman mac, ankle-legnth houndstooth Sta-Prest, finished off with my Sebago pennys. We stood at the vestibule waiting for the doors to open. I nodded an 'alright' at the fella. The cunt blanked me. We got off the train, and he proceeded to bowl up the platform like Danny Dyer with rickets. Some people.


Edited by Inks - 10/9/13 at 4:38pm
post #15357 of 18431

Now, I don't know what pigeon-hole I'd put these late 60s Japanese girls in. Mod ? Skinhead ? Suedehead ? I'm obviously thinking 69 when I see them. But not the year.

post #15358 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inks View Post



Now, I don't know what pigeon-hole I'd put these late 60s Japanese girls in. Mod ? Skinhead ? Suedehead ? I'm obviously thinking 69 when I see them. But not the year.


Ohhhh yes...
post #15359 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inks View Post
 

Now, I don't know what pigeon-hole I'd put these late 60s Japanese girls in. Mod ? Skinhead ? Suedehead ? I'm obviously thinking 69 when I see them. But not the year.

When I started at secondary school  in 69 we used to get on the bus with the kids from the local catholic school and the girls wore skirts like that as part of their school unifom,i don't remember them looking as good as the girls in the picture though.

post #15360 of 18431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inks View Post
 

True enough. I've had an Alpha Ma-1 for the best part of 18 years that I'm saving for the just the right occasion (decorating probably). I think buying a lot of other peoples vintage ebay stuff has made me stop throwing a load of stuff out myself. But yeah, there is a load of stuff I've never worn and never will, but will also never throw out or sell either(just in case).

The way I see it, there's four ways someone of our ilk could go if there was a sudden influx of unexpected monetary gain. The (lock up your granddaughters/sex-pest/bunga-bunga/I'm a mate of Silvio) Milanese way, the Guards/British officer in civvies style, the subtle Don Draper 60s dapper, or a paired-down-minimalist mix of the other three (which is basically a moneyed version of what we are already)

Last month, I caught the last train back from town. Far West London demographics as they are, I was one of only two white fellas on my carriage. The other white guy, was a Skin wearing 30-hole ox-blood Geta-Grips, an MA-1, bleach-splattered Levis that were so turned-up that they were essentially shorts. He was about 28. Myself, I had a shiny Mach 3 bonce, was wearing a four-finger madras BD under a beige Melka Statesman mac, ankle-legnth houndstooth Sta-Prest, finished off with my Sebago pennys. We stood at the vestibule waiting for the doors to open. I nodded an 'alright' at the fella. The cunt blanked me. We got off the train, and he proceeded to bowl up the platform like Danny Dyer with rickets. Some people.

Funny that you should say Guards / British officer, I bought a pair of Barker Ludlow in Herring shoes Ross-on-Wye yesterday,they look like the old officers shoe except that these are derbies,lovely grain leather,dainite rubber sole and very heavy ( a bit to country for some )...knocked down from £225 to £100 because the inside of one welt isn't cut straight ( don't show when their on ) that's me set for the rainy season shoe wise....sorry I cant do the pictures because they do look good.

I don't intend to wear anything else from that look though,not a British warm coat,brigade of Guards tie don't want to end up looking like a cross between Captain Peacock off Are you being served and Captain Mainwaring off Dads Army....as you say I like the mix of looks and these shoes will blend in with the clothes that I already have.

Although they are derbies these shoes do look very British ( IMO) and I have been thinking since this Milanese look debate that maybe I want to wear a bit more of British style kit much in the way that Clouseau told us that some French skinheads in the 80s developed a French look ( I don't mean Union jack t shirt or waistcoats,but clothes with a British style ).

BTW,I reckon that you had a lucky escape there with that "skinhead" you saw on the train,i tend to avoid characters like that...unfortunately I seem to have a mental magnet as my son calls it that means any nutcase in the vicinity starts to chat to me !


Edited by cerneabbas - 10/9/13 at 10:39pm
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