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Mod to Suedehead - Page 913

post #13681 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post

     Maybe that's why there was a reluctance to accept the labels by us as it evolved from Mods and out again quite quickly? How did you evolve into Skinhead Buttons? I agree with most of what you say except that you Mohican mate.IMO he  took something from a current trend that clearly would never work within the self contained dicipline of what I would consider in Mod taste.Trousers  may get slightly longer or shorter but I would always wear the appropriate length depending on the cut of them and style of the shoes or boots I was pairing them with.
Some might say someone like me "just wants their cake" so to speak? I certainly do,but i believe I have the self constraint and knowledge when enough is enough to not become a victim or caricature.I find it awkward when people ask questions like "Is it alright to wear ? ".Usually the answer should be "No fucking way ! " 
Did you see that thing on the telly about the Plumber from The Elephant & Castle who built his empire and become very wealthy? Clearly he had gripped on to his past a little too hard and used too much hair dye to be believable anymore.It also begs the question of the ethos being the bigger part of it all in the first place?
Who's really the Mod here,Steve McQueen or Weller.One never needed to let go and one doesn't know when to.

I think by now it is universally accepted that the Faces were his band,and probably the reason behind Rod avoiding any reunion over the years.

I fully get where you're coming from GSVS and I only really draw the difference between those who say they are skinheads and those that don't.
Having your cake is a good thing usually. If you take a few pointers from the skinhead style, I'm not knocking that (there's plenty of good ones!). Although I've no idea what you look like, I wouldn't have said you were a skinhead now, that's all. And why would you?

I have a completely different background, where I got into it when I was 11, so previous to that, I'd never really associated myself with any particular style. I looked up to the older skinheads (who looking back were mostly terribly dressed but it was a start). Whilst dressing in a way I thought was good (with some mixed influences), it became apparent a few years later that the original style was best (of all the skinhead guises so far) so I pushed towards that. So for decades now, I've dressed like an an original skinhead, researching the style from all different angles, regions etc but for me its full time, always original, always skinhead. Whilst that creates restrictions at times, it also makes for a true style.

You've got to appreciate though, when I got into it, it was youth-culture, not fashion; almost anti-fashion. And for most of that time, many aspects of the look have been very much against the grain (for example short-cut trousers). So I've never been fashionable as such and never followed a mainstream style (much of it fills me with contempt but that's partly a bi-product of always being eccentric).

I didn't see the cockney plumber as I don't watch TV but I know the type you mean. Maybe I'm the skinhead version! I've hung onto it because I still enjoy it, still interested in the research (hence why I'm on here) and still (in my mind) carrying off the look. Maybe at 60, I'll be too old for some of my clothes but many would say that about me now as I'm still dressing like a late 60s teenage yob in my 40s. Still having tonik suits made & buying beautiful 45 year old shoes, still riding a Lambretta, going to soul and reggae clubs and long may that continue. I did shake my head at some of the comments on here from the old-guard like "I'm too old to wear jeans ... or loafers ... or a suit". I get it, but just hope I'll never get like it.
post #13682 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

Clouseau,Yes it is true that you should try shoes on,i have already got two pairs of Loakes in a size 10 so that would be ok ( usually ),with the Royals they still make them, so would it be a problem for them to use a better quality leather ?.Yes i think it would be a problem to find enough people who would want to buy the shoes.

what you need to consider is are there any shoes that you just can't find anywhere now, that you're willing to put a load of effort into having made, you're also willing for everyone else to have a pair the same (to keep costs down) and also willing to see them in the shops once the manufacturer has ignored your wishes for small-batch exclusivity?
And this is all bearing in mind they'll probably get the design a little wrong.
If all that's the case, phone up Sarah Loake and I'm sure she'll be very accomadating for the right price.

Otherwise, put some overtime in, save up and get down to Aldens.
post #13683 of 18401
I always found Polo necks sag at the collar after one wear. Plus they can be uncomfortable when it warms up indoors. I am talking jumpers rather than the thin polo necks which I never liked.
post #13684 of 18401
What I was listening to - I never said 'enjoying' satisfied.gif- in this month in the golden year (for me) that was 1969!

http://www.everyhit.com/retrocharts/1969-JulyA.html

I'm off now for a sob, as I lament what might have been... biggrin.gif
post #13685 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by roytonboy View Post

Also, crew neck lambswool pullovers, just before this.

 

I would give a time line for knitwear as:

 

1968 - plain v-neck sleeveless pullover

1969 - as above with the addition of v-neck fair-isle pullover. This was the first item of clothing I bought specifically for my 'skinhead' wardrobe. (I already had boots, Levi's, BD shirts before I  ever heard the term 'skinhead')

1970 - plain sleeveless pullovers - fair-isle fading out as checked shirts came in.

1971 - plain long sleeved v-neck pullovers. Late 1971 - also crew neck lambswool pullovers

1972 - Early 1972 Polo neck jumper.

 

Obviously the usual disclaimer re: location and timings and naturally some cross-over in styles (e.g. I still wore sleeveless pullovers in 1971 as well as long sleeved ones)

 

Late 1972 - Football Jumpers (although they were zip up cardigans) and 'patchwork' jumpers (were these also known as 'Jester' jumpers?). I would describe these as "terrace wear" for although there was still a football terrace culture it had little to do with skinhead or suedehead (or Mod) style by this stage. I had a mate who was 12-18 months younger than me who had been a smartly turned out suedehead but who was later to be seen wearing loafers, checked rupert trousers and a patchwork jumper over a penny round collared shirt. He was most put out when he heard an old woman say "It's Joseph and his coat of many colours!" - Ah, fashion, but no style!

I would say that things were a little different here in Essex.

 

1967 - plain botany and lambswool v and crewnecks from M&S predominantly but, if you could afford it from small old fashioned menswear shops.

 

1968 - marled v necks, crew necks and cardis from Wolsey.

 

1968 - some people toying with Shetland wool - v necks, crew necks and some Fairisle too.  I bought an ill-fated red crew neck with Fairisle around the neck and sold it to a girl in Brighton.

 

1969 - I don't recall much change except that brighter colours like red and lemon became the thing.

 

I would say sleeveless v necks and cardis existed throughout the period.

 

By late 1970 the roll necks came in.  I recall having Shetland roll necks in plain red, navy and a marled coffee colour.  All from Village Gate or Squire Shop.  I don't really remember many people wearing the lighter weight roll necks at any time around then.  These came in the 1980s and mine were from Sunspel or John Smedley - and still are, of course.

 

One of the biggest changes over time was that of fit, going from relaxed in the mid 1960s to (too) tight come 1971.  Fashion eh!  I always thought, and still do think we should have stopped the male style clock sometime in 1966.

 

1966

 

 

1971

 

BTW - this Oct 1971 picture shows the pointed collar shirt that was fashionable alongside the penny round collar.  This one from Take 6 I think. 

post #13686 of 18401

Anyone else getting bored with the labels debate?

 

I have mentioned before that the theme that runs throughout the book entitled 'The Soul Stylists' is one of 'Modernism'.  In fact,  six decades of Modernism and a highly influential world of clothes and music.  But a world that is deliberately hidden away by the participants.  Styles change but the fundamental principles of secrecy and exclusivity and one-upmanship survive.  That is what I loved about the early days of the skinhead movement.  It didn't have a name even among us, it didn't have a very clear direction but it did require you to spend every penny and more besides being ahead of everyone else.  Going to the Ivy Shop in Richmond, an obscure Blues record shop in a back street off Tottenham Court Road, having a girlfriend who could afford Anello and Davide shoes.......etc, etc.

 

It was a heady time and it took up all your time and effort.  So let's not wallow in debate about how it has all got twisted and fucked up but try to recapture that sense of elation that existed at the beginning of each movement.  Blimey I haven't had a libation yet!

post #13687 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttons View Post




You've got to appreciate though, when I got into it, it was youth-culture, not fashion; almost anti-fashion. And for most of that time, many aspects of the look have been very much against the grain (for example short-cut trousers). So I've never been fashionable as such and never followed a mainstream style (much of it fills me with contempt but that's partly a bi-product of always being eccentric).

 

buttons and I are the same age and have approached this from the same angle except it was youth culture in the UK and very very underground in the US.I continue to this day to loath mainstream American culture and have spent my life exploring other cultures.It helps if these cultures speak english(easier)Cheers

post #13688 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Vaughan View Post

What I was listening to - I never said 'enjoying' satisfied.gif- in this month in the golden year (for me) that was 1969!

http://www.everyhit.com/retrocharts/1969-JulyA.html

I'm off now for a sob, as I lament what might have been... biggrin.gif

What a great month for records - and only a mere 44 years ago !!

post #13689 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Vaughan View Post

Hi Brownie - shown on BBC4 last night:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b01p96ly/Timeshift_Series_12_When_Wrestling_was_Golden_Grapples_Grunts_and_Grannies/

Maybe you could spot someone you know?

satisfied.gif

Unfortunately not.I did watch most of it last night,but missed the beginning.
post #13690 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aces and Eights View Post

What a great month for records - and only a mere 44 years ago !!

I can remember Steppemwolf"Born To Wild"being spun at the Plaza.Such a variety of Tunes.

The thinner "Ribbed" Polo Necks you could get from Harry Fenton`s,I remember buying a Pale Blue first.I was not going to the Ivy Shop but I did go to the Village Gate.I still like Polo Necks but the trend now,is to stick a Zip in it-which I do not like.
post #13691 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankmod View Post

buttons and I are the same age and have approached this from the same angle except it was youth culture in the UK and very very underground in the US.I continue to this day to loath mainstream American culture and have spent my life exploring other cultures.It helps if these cultures speak english(easier)Cheers

Buttons knows more about the original Skinheads-than a lot of the Originals. smile.gif
post #13692 of 18401
And Little Queenie and Ancillotti.-Thought I would get that in quick......biggrin.gif
post #13693 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by browniecj 
The thinner "Ribbed" Polo Necks you could get from Harry Fenton`s,I remember buying a Pale Blue first.I was not going to the Ivy Shop but I did go to the Village Gate.I still like Polo Necks but the trend now,is to stick a Zip in it-which I do not like.

Zip makes it like skiing thermal top which is OK when you are skiing.

White polo necks were considered gay clothing in the late 60s.
post #13694 of 18401

Just wanted to say there's been some really good contributions in the past 24 hrs or so, some very good details and opinions shared
 

post #13695 of 18401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

I red somewhere than on another forum, members had made up Hawkins Astronauts boots replicas by Solovair.
it apparently worked well for Solovair who now produce Astros for Mikkel Rude, and under their own brand as "Solovair Hawkins".


Ah, i used to go on that forum, never got any of those boots, not my cuppa tbh, some brogues were also knocked out in a small batch, they were pretty good, but again i never got any, on account of i didn't trust the bloke doing them, for once my instincts were right and a number of people were had over.

The bloke who got them made is pushing up daisys now, no great surprise, but thats not a story for this forum

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