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Mod to Suedehead - Page 880

post #13186 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by browniecj View Post

It was not just the North that had the Women walking around in curlers-we had our fair share as well smile.gif

 

It was quite common at one time - the 'Aintree' photo, however, could have been taken in Liverpool city centre last Saturday afternoon.

post #13187 of 17758

That is one the stories my mom liked to tell about how my grandmother would embarrass her if she got into trouble, she would drop her off at school and get out of the car in a bathrobe,slippers and with curlers in her hair for everyone at school to see.

post #13188 of 17758

A question for the originals.

i've red several times that Jean Jacques Burnel, born 1952, notorious bassist (The Stranglers), French but raised in England, was in his youth in the early seventies a Skinhead. Heard of that before?

 

 

post #13189 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivyskin89 View Post

 

 

 

 

That is why I did the pocket flap, but do think I might leave it out, but I don't know. I don't want it to be an exact replica of a Ben Sherman. I'm am still in the prototype phase and still playing with details.

 

 

 

Each to their own and to me getting bespoke is a very personal thing and not open to debate.Primarily,bespoke offers the chance of a perfect fit.It then opens up the options to have something unique in both style and fabric.It allows you to play around with button styles,thread colours,stitch patterns.The problem is where to draw the line,and at what point does individuality become too much and "Over Designed"/ The old Mod ethos of "One Upmanship" had many leaving the tailor shop with some frankenstein creations.(my mate's 22" double vented suit springs to mind).So some self restraint is also healthy. If your body type is average and you can find what you need of the peg then i see little point in just replicating what's out there,unless of course it's just not available.BD's are an American Classic and the wealth of  availability is astounding.

A friend just had some shirts done by a Neapolitan Shirtmaker,which are some of the best tailors in the world IMO.

Solid Navy,and at first glance looked like a nice solid Navy poplin.Then i saw the "crows foot"  stitches,the contrast orange thread used on just the collar buttons,the drape and weight of the poplin,the contrast fabric triangle used at the bottom sides  etc.etc.All subtle details,restrained,stylish and individual without looking too much.

post #13190 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post

 

Each to their own and to me getting bespoke is a very personal thing and not open to debate.Primarily,bespoke offers the chance of a perfect fit.It then opens up the options to have something unique in both style and fabric.It allows you to play around with button styles,thread colours,stitch patterns.etc. .

 

Yes, I agree. And this demands some restraint. I am having a blazer made and had my first fitting yesterday. It is my first bespoke item, apart from trousers, for a while and my tailor had to keep reining me in. I wanted to go for a brighter colour of lining and buttons than he considered suitable. Thankfully, on reflection, he won!
post #13191 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

A question for the originals.

i've red several times that Jean Jacques Burnel, born 1952, notorious bassist (The Stranglers), French but raised in England, was in his youth in the early seventies a Skinhead. Heard of that before?

 

 

 

No, Clouseau I hadn't. I suppose by 'the early 70s' I would have lost interest in matters skinhead anyway.
post #13192 of 17758
Mod to Suedehead - discuss. Forgive me if I seem pedantic but where is some of the recent discussion taking us? I mean ladies? in rollers, old bags at Ascot, Teds and Greasers, skinheads in the 70s all seems a bit peripheral, what?
post #13193 of 17758

Thanks MR Brideshead. I wrote early seventies, but it could be late sixties...

 

I met him very briefly in Paris in the nineties. Quite impressive. I would not step on the toe of his Astros...

post #13194 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

Thanks MR Brideshead. I wrote early seventies, but it could be late sixties...

 

I met him very briefly in Paris in the nineties. Quite impressive. I would not step on the toe of his Astros...

 

Yes, didn't mean to be dismissive but I don't recall. One thing I have been meaning to ask is about the influence of les Minets on styles in France. Where and when did they fit into the timeline? Thanks.
post #13195 of 17758

Les "minets"(that mean kitties) started early seventies and last to the early eighties. The first ones could be the equivalent of mods in France. They used to go in the Drugstore on the Champs élysées, spent all treir money on clothes and shoes, try to date the loveliest girls, had quite long hairs but hated hippies. They were the precursors. After that, like with all fashion, it became mainstream, and every teenager with a decent pair of strides, a nice shirt, and Sebago loafers were called "minet". The originals one were interesting, not the others  imo. There is a very good french movie about them: "La bande du drugstore" 

post #13196 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsvs5 View Post

 

Each to their own and to me getting bespoke is a very personal thing and not open to debate.Primarily,bespoke offers the chance of a perfect fit.It then opens up the options to have something unique in both style and fabric.It allows you to play around with button styles,thread colours,stitch patterns.The problem is where to draw the line,and at what point does individuality become too much and "Over Designed"/ The old Mod ethos of "One Upmanship" had many leaving the tailor shop with some frankenstein creations.(my mate's 22" double vented suit springs to mind).So some self restraint is also healthy. If your body type is average and you can find what you need of the peg then i see little point in just replicating what's out there,unless of course it's just not available.BD's are an American Classic and the wealth of  availability is astounding.

A friend just had some shirts done by a Neapolitan Shirtmaker,which are some of the best tailors in the world IMO.

Solid Navy,and at first glance looked like a nice solid Navy poplin.Then i saw the "crows foot"  stitches,the contrast orange thread used on just the collar buttons,the drape and weight of the poplin,the contrast fabric triangle used at the bottom sides  etc.etc.All subtle details,restrained,stylish and individual without looking too much.

Yes, I agree. My shirt too has gussets and all overlapping seams. I don't know any american companies that do a slim fit 4 finger collar button down. I already have people who are going to buy up the rest of the vintage gingham when they are done. I feel I'm on the right track, but you absolutely right about not letting it get out of hand. Thats hilarious about the 22" side vents! lol

post #13197 of 17758

post #13198 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

 

Yes, didn't mean to be dismissive but I don't recall.One thing I have been meaning to ask is about the influence of les Minets on styles in France. Where and when did they fit into the timeline? Thanks.

The exact timeline would be late sixties for the precursors to early-mid eighties for the followers. There influence on style is the kit they wore who became (well not the more expensive) mainstream: shetlands, Lacoste, Sebago, JM Weston, Carvil, leather flight jackets, oxford shirts, colored socks, pastel colors... 

post #13199 of 17758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Knightley View Post

Mod to Suedehead - discuss. Forgive me if I seem pedantic but where is some of the recent discussion taking us? I mean ladies? in rollers, old bags at Ascot, Teds and Greasers, skinheads in the 70s all seems a bit peripheral, what?

Guilty your Honor......I agree.The curler incident was a little light relief but fits in with the North /South divide and the Scouse humour,which is priceless.Scousers are the Neapolitans of the North.Full of pride,passion,piss and nicked gear.Teds and greasers will always be in the conversation.From the leering ,sneering disapproval of the mecca doormen clinging on too their slick,quiffed, ducks arses to understanding of the importance of our tribal dress sense by parents who more than likely worshiped Gene Vincent and Eddie Cochran.

As Roy has spoken of his dilemma at shelling out his wage packet to shod his kids in the "Right " gear,our parents in bewilderment did the same for many of us over forty years ago.Without the peripheral vision you can not get the whole picture.As I'm sure you've experienced ,America and England speak the same language yet there are hidden nuances in our cultures that can not be translated and will never be truly understood by either IMO.As the Harley owners proudly proclaim "If I need to explain,then you'll never understand".Rightly so.

How can you begin to expect generations of people to grasp the idea that a very large percentage of Britains youth were captivated and embraced a style that has since been blacklisted ,maligned,misinterpreted,misunderstood,hijacked for the worse and become associated with hate rather than a style?What was worn is the Book Cover  - what's inside is the culture.

On that note.....Can we stay on topic please !

post #13200 of 17758

Ivyskin89.My personal preference(back of the shirt) I like the button at the back of the collar.I prefer the loop on the back.    Clouseau.Didn't know about the Kitties.Looks interesting and will check out the film. Gsvs5. Well said(or writ) I believe sometimes going off topic can be positive and leads to memories long forgotten.Never know where a thought will go.But I agree with you.Maybe we need to discuss some aspect we have not yet.There was a brief discussion about racism and bigotry (which we try to ignore,tryin to keep politics out) I do think a discussion about racism is important to the book.Must dispel the myths and misconceptions,Lasttye had a good quote about the west indian community's contribution to British life.It said everything we need to say about the subject.My desire for the book is more stories involving the families of the "originals" and their approval or disapproval.I think stories about families makes the story more relatable to non skinheads who are interested in the subject.

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