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post #12526 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksideoftheforce View Post

Question for the non-American posters on the site:

Although it may not seem like the question has anything to do with traditional skinhead fashion, it does.
I was just reading an article online that generally speaking Americans are considered the worst dressed people in the western world. By worst dressed the article stated slovenly and lazily dressed. GQ magazine voted the city where I'm from Los Angeles as the country's second worst dressed city. As an insider I can definately attest to that. In a city where flip flops, loose fitting t shirts with tacky prints and shorts are the norm, people here consider a button down shirt and a nice pair of fitted pants and a pair of plain caps or wingtips to be "formally dressed" and will often get you stares to the point that you are made to feel like some arrogant tosser full of himself. Properly tailored fitted pants that fit the wearer like they are meant to fit are considered "tight" and "gay" looking in America where lose and baggy are nearly uniform here. In America people don't seem to have a concept of what constitutes formal attire and what constitutes looking smart and presentable. To me formal means a suit and a tie, semi-formal is a suit without a tie.

Its been established from previous discussions on this board that American fashion was an important element of the traditional skinhead attire, American long wings, and the smart ivy league fashion. Did you original skinheads growing up in the 60s view Americans back then to be smartly dressed, unlike today when Americans have a notorious reputation for looking scruffy? Even expensive stores in America considered "hip" and "high end" like Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister are just full of boring shitty looking clothes that would be considered crappy style by European standards.

Having visited London and other parts of Europe several times myself I can definitely say that the stereotype of the badly dressed American has a ring of truth to it. I mean compared to the average Londoner or Parisian Americans certainly have no fashion sense. Did you original skinhead guys feel differently about American fashion sense in the 60s?

Back in the 1960s, 'American' to us meant the Motown acts and Napoleon Solo.
post #12527 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

Sirryacus. I totally agree about the problems of ordering online.I am watching a pair of vintage Florsheim longwings on ebay at the moment,US size 11.5 which is UK 10.5,ok so far but these shoes have a width fitting B which is described as "narrow", without trying them on its difficult for me to know. I usually would not buy used shoes but the pictures of these suggest that they were hardly ever worn,maybe too uncomfortable due to width ?..thanks for the info about etsy.

Just a quick note - standard width fitting on yank shoes is D.
I usually wear an 8E or an 8.5D.
I've had C's before which are noticeably narrower - big difference on width. For that reason, I've ignored all the B's that have come along (and there has been some beauties). What you will find is there'll be unworn vintage stock shoes for good prices, but they're often in sizes they couldn't get rid of - that's why they're still around.
Hope that helps.

By the way, I've got some '66 black pebble grain Florsheim Imperial wing tips - lovely! Personal tastes though.
post #12528 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksideoftheforce View Post

Question for the non-American posters on the site:

Although it may not seem like the question has anything to do with traditional skinhead fashion, it does.
I was just reading an article online that generally speaking Americans are considered the worst dressed people in the western world. By worst dressed the article stated slovenly and lazily dressed. GQ magazine voted the city where I'm from Los Angeles as the country's second worst dressed city. As an insider I can definately attest to that. In a city where flip flops, loose fitting t shirts with tacky prints and shorts are the norm, people here consider a button down shirt and a nice pair of fitted pants and a pair of plain caps or wingtips to be "formally dressed" and will often get you stares to the point that you are made to feel like some arrogant tosser full of himself. Properly tailored fitted pants that fit the wearer like they are meant to fit are considered "tight" and "gay" looking in America where lose and baggy are nearly uniform here. In America people don't seem to have a concept of what constitutes formal attire and what constitutes looking smart and presentable. To me formal means a suit and a tie, semi-formal is a suit without a tie.

Its been established from previous discussions on this board that American fashion was an important element of the traditional skinhead attire, American long wings, and the smart ivy league fashion. Did you original skinheads growing up in the 60s view Americans back then to be smartly dressed, unlike today when Americans have a notorious reputation for looking scruffy? Even expensive stores in America considered "hip" and "high end" like Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister are just full of boring shitty looking clothes that would be considered crappy style by European standards.

Having visited London and other parts of Europe several times myself I can definitely say that the stereotype of the badly dressed American has a ring of truth to it. I mean compared to the average Londoner or Parisian Americans certainly have no fashion sense. Did you original skinhead guys feel differently about American fashion sense in the 60s?


My first impressions of the Americans were that they were very smart(bearing in mind my first contact was with American Servicemen),even when they were dressing down.They used to go to Clubs like the Flamingo etc.,and I would go to West London to the Record Store-where American Imports were sold.Quite a few used to hang about there.This was the mid 60s.

I find the average British dresser has not got a clue.Go to any Town/City Centre on a Friday or Saturday Night,and you will see what I mean.They are trashy dressers.Most of the British Male have copied their American Counterparts(going by your description)and gone casual.To think,in all the High Streets(in the 60s)you had Tailors,now you have to go and look for them.Then it is a game of Roulette whether they will do the Job properly.

I cannot really vouch for the French,but the Italians have it sussed. smile.gif
post #12529 of 18543

Cerneabbas,

on the subject of brogues i think you must not forget either the Loake Royals or the Cheaneys, that look really good. In both cases, they are not too expensive and sturdy. 

I have got a pair of Loake Royals. They are OK, but not as good as the Dexter i had in the past.

I have other brogues i like more, but they are not longwings...

 

About the way the French dress, i think the middle-aged men like me don't look too bad, and the older generations are smart. But with the youngster it's another problem. Most of them are under American influences: hoodies, sportswear and sneakers...

post #12530 of 18543

On the subject of americans, lets refer to one of the better dressed men of his time Sir Hardy Aimes

 

 

Quote:
American Styling has made two important contributions to men’s fashion. First jeans. These are popular everywhere with young men – even on remote Greek Islands. Men of all ages wear them for work and play. They have done much to affirm the general tendency towards narrow trousers of all types. The second contribution is more of an attitude towards dress. The American seems to have a horror of being different; except in play clothes where he is quite happy to be a horror.

 

and

 

 

Quote:
The american will not be uncomfortable.

 

That is all. rolleyes.gif

However, we should not forget that there current lack of dressing is made up for the invention of the Button down shirt among many things, for which they can be forgiven. I think 60's America was cool, although Skinheads would not directly be infulenced by it. like i said before - skinheads have something to do with ivy league style, but Ivy league style has nothing to do with skinheads.

I think everywhere now has gone to shit. People talk about Itallians cool dressing etc. most of the people Ive seen couldnt dress a friggin salad let alone themselves. Bring back the days were all men had to wear a hat and tie, and you were lynched if not !!!

post #12531 of 18543

I'm not a sharp dresser by any means kind of ironic being on this forum right? I am a basic jeans and t-shirt type of guy and I love my sneakers, I usually wear a button down more often than not , nowadays though and that alone raises me above most people kind of weird when you think about it, hell I wish most people would at least throw on some jeans before leaving the house I've saw far too many people out in their pajama pants.


Edited by Sirryacus - 5/21/13 at 2:57am
post #12532 of 18543

buttons.Thanks for the width size info,i found a guide to measuring your shoe width online and i think that the Florsheim longwings on e bay will be to narrow for me so i will wait until something else comes along,cheers.

post #12533 of 18543

I was in Swindon outlet centre recently and i looked in Charles Tyrwhitt shop there.They had some crombie style coats in a lighter weight wool than is normal for a coat at first i thought hmm what crap but after thinking about it for a while i thought that those coats could be ok for spring or early autumn (or even summer in the UK if we get a summer!).I then remembered a mate of mine Maff ( sadly dead for many years),he had a traditional wool crombie ,this would be 70 or 71 but he also had one made in Prince of Wales check,the material was about the weight for a suit it was very smart.I suppose you would have to be really careful about the  length for the coat as one a bit short could look like one of Wee Wily Harris crazy teddy boy drape jackets,i woul;d also forget a velvet collar for the same reason,i only ever saw 2 coats like that Maffs and another mate of his.Has anyone got any experience of Adam of Londons crombies ? there is a herringbone one which looks good £225 which sounds so reasonable that i start to worry about the quality,i know someone on here said a while back that the linings came apart.

post #12534 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

buttons.Thanks for the width size info,i found a guide to measuring your shoe width online and i think that the Florsheim longwings on e bay will be to narrow for me so i will wait until something else comes along,cheers.

Allan Edmonds do 5 width sizes , My Mc Neil, Brogues size 10 came in D Width, which are just a little narrow, So when I bought my Waltons i got a E Width which are ok.
post #12535 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by cerneabbas View Post

I was in Swindon outlet centre recently and i looked in Charles Tyrwhitt shop there.They had some crombie style coats in a lighter weight wool than is normal for a coat at first i thought hmm what crap but after thinking about it for a while i thought that those coats could be ok for spring or early autumn (or even summer in the UK if we get a summer!).I then remembered a mate of mine Maff ( sadly dead for many years),he had a traditional wool crombie ,this would be 70 or 71 but he also had one made in Prince of Wales check,the material was about the weight for a suit it was very smart.I suppose you would have to be really careful about the  length for the coat as one a bit short could look like one of Wee Wily Harris crazy teddy boy drape jackets,i woul;d also forget a velvet collar for the same reason,i only ever saw 2 coats like that Maffs and another mate of his.Has anyone got any experience of Adam of Londons crombies ? there is a herringbone one which looks good £225 which sounds so reasonable that i start to worry about the quality,i know someone on here said a while back that the linings came apart.

When I had my POW crombie made, I went for the velvet collar (oxblood to go with the red pinstripe in the check).
Got velvet on my Crombie one and on a late 60s one I had when I was 15. Always seemed a cut above, without being OTT.
Its suit cloth rather than over-coat fabric. Wool and mohair.
post #12536 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

On the subject of jeans, i bought last year on sale (otherwise to bloody expensive) a Lee riders 101, with selvedge. I love it. Compare to a 501 it's higher waisted, but the legs are narrow, quite fit. The color is very nice too. I think Sherlock Buttons is right, because it really looks like the jeans pictured on bunty's brother photo, even if they are not vintage.

I have one too, it's supposed to be a 50's replica model. Best jeans I've got. I've been trying to find another one but they always cost about three times what I paid for mine.
post #12537 of 18543
buttons. As you said about the brogues earlier its personal taste,when you have something made to measure you are paying to have something as you want it,and thats how it should be.On a practical note i think that there are probably more days in the year when the lighter weight coat would be worn but on cold days you still want a heavier coat.I find that a crombie can be a bit inconvenient when i am in and out of the car and i get fed up taking it on and off so i bought a wool pea coat last year,i know lots dont like them.
post #12538 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by PxC View Post


I have one too, it's supposed to be a 50's replica model. Best jeans I've got. I've been trying to find another one but they always cost about three times what I paid for mine.

PxC, did you wash it yet? I didn't cos i fear the colour change...

post #12539 of 18543
Darksideoftheforce. In your post yesterday you asked if non Americans thought that Americans were smartly dressed in the 60s,i was thinking about that today and i suppose i like most people only saw Americans on tv or in films.In those days most Americans that you saw on tv programmes set in those times did dress smarter (as did the British ones) as i remember most American men would wear a suit,tie,shoes,so yes i probably would say they were smarter than now,but you cannot take 1 country in isolation people in most western countries dressed smarter than now.
post #12540 of 18543
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clouseau View Post

PxC, did you wash it yet? I didn't cos i fear the colour change...

I just soaked it once and let it hang by the belt loop to let some air inside. The colour didn't change too much and it stopped stinking, so that's my advice as far as jeans go.
Some people put vinegar on the water, but I don't really know if it works.
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