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Mod to Suedehead - Page 704

post #10546 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botolph View Post


  I still find it fascinating that such an Anglo-centric subculture has some of its roots in American Ivy Style.  For me, being only a fella in my late 30s, it's like it's all come full circle.  Living in Boston and born and bred in New England, the Ivy look has always been around.  As a kid of 15 being a skinhead, My buddies and I thought we were the furthest thing from that, looking the way we did and all... but come to find out, the origins of "our look" was heavily influenced by "them". 
  This thread really is an incredible dearth of information, not only for curious "normals", but for those of us ITK.  Trainspotter Skinheads Club happy.gif

Botolph The very smart Original Skinheads was obsessed with American clothing back then, Most our cloths was bought from the Ivy/Squire Shop,I always thought Royals was made in America, but they was not, The reason I thought this is because they was referred to as American Brogues,..Double Wing Tip, English brogues that Americans like are different.smile.gif

Just got to add The Harrington Jacket.. we always thought was American [wrongly] this was due to the character Rodney Harrington who wore one in the 60s TV Series Peyton Place, smile.gif
post #10547 of 18457

Yeah I guess that was back when American made goods was something to be proud of. 

 

So by the English wing tips, you mean these ones?

 

 

And these as American wing tips?

 

post #10548 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botolph View Post

Yeah I guess that was back when American made goods was something to be proud of. 

So by the English wing tips, you mean these ones?




And these as American wing tips?



Spot on mate.
I am still obsessed with American Ivy, My Alan Edmonds Made in USA Cordovan Brouges, The nearest thing to the Original Royals, Alden do a nice pair also,



post #10549 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post


When we invented the Skinhead fashion [ not knowing we was skinheads] at school 67/68..we wore cheap cloths, Cherry Red Commando, Army Hob Nails, and Steel Cap Boots, Dickies jeans, Nylon Monkey Jackets, any type of Shirt, Sweatshirts, Donkey Jackets, Jungle Greens, Heavy Cardigans, Back then the fashion was pure Working Class..

I'm re-posting Lasttye's words as they are important to this story.Great pics of your BD's Lasttye.               Great info everyone on BD's.There are so many BD's around by so many Co.'s that I only buy thrift store,second hand.Obviously you have to be very choosy.I can go thru a rack of shirts in no time.Percentages are small.      Botolph is correct about New England bein very Ivy/Preppy.That is where the Prep schools are that give you the name. .The classism that exists there is very strong and the Prep school/ Ivy League is the top.

post #10550 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Botolph View Post

Yeah I guess that was back when American made goods was something to be proud of. 

So by the English wing tips, you mean these ones?




And these as American wing tips?


When we first saw guys wearing what later we came to know as Royals, we didn't know how to describe them. They were so different from the classic English brogue that our dads wore - normally based on an Oxford shoe - they blew our minds. This Church's Diplomat is a half-brogue, of course:



The 'American wingtip' differed in so many respects. It was chunkier with a double welt, it was based on a Derby style (US Blucher) with open lacing and it came in burgundy! The most striking difference was the continuation of the brougue design right to the back of the shoe (hence long wing):



I don't remember the terms wingtip or long wing being used at the time but rather just Royal brogue or plain caps. Others may recall it differently. Wingtip is of course an Americanism which came about when someone spotted that the shape of the broguing close to the toe resembled that of a bird’s outstretched wing.
Edited by Brideshead - 2/12/13 at 8:08am
post #10551 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post

Spot on mate.
I am still obsessed with American Ivy, My Alan Edmonds Made in USA Cordovan Brouges, The nearest thing to the Original Royals, Alden do a nice pair also,



Those MacNeils are lovely, Roy. Did you get them here?
post #10552 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankmod View Post

I'm re-posting Lasttye's words as they are important to this story.Great pics of your BD's Lasttye.               Great info everyone on BD's.There are so many BD's around by so many Co.'s that I only buy thrift store,second hand.Obviously you have to be very choosy.I can go thru a rack of shirts in no time.Percentages are small.      Botolph is correct about New England bein very Ivy/Preppy.That is where the Prep schools are that give you the name. .The classism that exists there is very strong and the Prep school/ Ivy League is the top.

Interesting you use the word classicism, yankmod. I think in the later skinhead period (late 1969 – early 1970) there was a real sense that things had to have some ‘authenticity’. Whether it was the US-made BD with ‘soil release’ stamped on the tail, the classic piece of English knitwear, the bespoke suit or the red pocket hanky – they all had to be the very best you could afford and ideally with a ‘story’ behind them.

Looking back, in some ways it felt like the prototype of what I came to know much later (in the 1980s) when only a ‘Made in Italy’ label would do.
post #10553 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankmod View Post

Great. post some pics.Fashion show style.

Well, i tend travel light so theres not that much variation in what i wore
Every trip should start with an ale.


Me, and Henry Vs sword


Kings Cross, i think


Brogues and blakeys


Shepards Bush Market


Covent garden or therebouts.
post #10554 of 18457
I'll join in on the shoe fun, these are from my little brother, he's not a skinhead but a mod, but he prefers the ivy shoe side of the skinheads, then all the funky topper shoe and wallebee and desert boot wearing mods. nothings vintage though all new, all shell cordovan:


Does the first shoe on the left look like a Gibson shoe? My little brother could not care less, but I'm curious if it looked like that or if it's different again. Still have no clear idea what a Gibson shoe is supposed to look like. I like his smooth shoes a lot, very jealous of it.

I got myself these brogues from meermin, also shell cordovan (ain't got a camera with me to make the photo).
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 85
post #10555 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post



Regarding Facconable they do, a Classic fit which is a little baggy, Custom, more tailored and Slim fit, Custom is the best fit.

Ah, right. Custom Fit. That's what I get, not Classic.
post #10556 of 18457
John I got the Mc Neils from the States,

Loempiavreter,

The shoes on the left in your photo look like Gibsons, I have a pair of Alan Edmonds Walton, which are similar to Gibsons with the front Apron, MoM said the Apron went further towards the tip of the shoe, I had a pair in 70 but just cant remember.

This is my pair.


Edited by Lasttye - 2/12/13 at 9:50am
post #10557 of 18457
Brill pics Lerk.
post #10558 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brideshead View Post


Interesting you use the word classicism, yankmod. I think in the later skinhead period (late 1969 – early 1970) there was a real sense that things had to have some ‘authenticity’. Whether it was the US-made BD with ‘soil release’ stamped on the tail, the classic piece of English knitwear, the bespoke suit or the red pocket hanky – they all had to be the very best you could afford and ideally with a ‘story’ behind them.

Looking back, in some ways it felt like the prototype of what I came to know much later (in the 1980s) when only a ‘Made in Italy’ label would do.

Didn't say "Classicism"Said "Classism"No worries, The sentance  works with both words though.The last sentence I agree with.The skins were obsessed with specific brands(some from outside the country)like the casuals later.Lets not forget the original casuals were called Perry Boys cause they wore Fred Perry. Lerk,You look great,thanks for posting those pics svenska poika (my grandma was Swedish,thats all the swedish I know also svenska flicka)Don't know why the type went slanted.

post #10559 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by yankmod View Post

Didn't say "Classicism"Said "Classism"No worries, The sentance  works with both words though.The last sentence I agree with.The skins were obsessed with specific brands(some from outside the country)like the casuals later.Lets not forget the original casuals were called Perry Boys cause they wore Fred Perry. Lerk,You look great,thanks for posting those pics svenska poika (my grandma was Swedish,thats all the swedish I know also svenska flicka)Don't know why the type went slanted.

dont belive that rubbish about 'Perry boys ' in the late 70s all the teenage boys wore fred perrys from soul boys to two tone kids to boneheads . Casuals first sported Lacoste than Ralph - fred perry was far to easily avalible , cheap and english 

post #10560 of 18457
Quote:
Originally Posted by loempiavreter View Post

I'll join in on the shoe fun, these are from my little brother, he's not a skinhead but a mod, but he prefers the ivy shoe side of the skinheads, then all the funky topper shoe and wallebee and desert boot wearing mods. nothings vintage though all new, all shell cordovan:


Does the first shoe on the left look like a Gibson shoe? My little brother could not care less, but I'm curious if it looked like that or if it's different again. Still have no clear idea what a Gibson shoe is supposed to look like. I like his smooth shoes a lot, very jealous of it.

I got myself these brogues from meermin, also shell cordovan (ain't got a camera with me to make the photo).
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 85

The Apron Stitching came nearer up to the Toe(Royal Gibsons),then the middle stitching went down the Toe.I can remember them in Black only.I loved Royals,they seem to last for ever.

Interesting Posts about Shirts.I look on the Ivy League Clothes Sites to see what is about.
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