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Mod to Suedehead - Page 703

post #10531 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermelon man View Post

Shit a brick! I thought the old Baracuta was a rip-off; under the new owners, it's an insult to anyone's intelligence. I somehow doubt that we'll see the old knock-down prices under the new owners, TKMaxx or otherwise angry.gif

 

New shirts. Always a controversial subject, but here goes...

 

Jump the Gun

http://www.jumpthegun.co.uk/

 

Tend to be small, so buy bigger than you normally would. Good collars, though.

 

 

Britac

http://www.britac.net/shop/index.php?language=en

 

Brilliant designs. They could clean up if they got their customer service right.

 

 

Mikkel Rude

http://mikkelrude.co.uk/

 

Overpriced, I think. 'Skinhead style' rather than authentic. Quality variable.

 

 

Brutus

http://www.brutus-trimfit.com/

 

People are snobby about these re-issues and true, the quality varies a bit (some are Oxford cloth, but others are more like cheesecloth). You have to be selective. Some also say the repro collars don't roll correctly. This is probably due to the variable nature of the cloth rather than the cut, IMO.

 

 

Warrior

http://www.warriorclothing.org/

 

I'll be shot down for mentioning them, but I think their quality is improving. If you're on a budget, and want a new rather than second-hand shirt, they are OK.

You have to remember just how expensive the original clobber was back then , i certainly could not afford Levi Sta prest as a boy .

post #10532 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skanstull View Post

If I want button down shirts in an original skinhead era style, can you recommend any brands? As far as I understand, neither Fred Perry nor Ben Sherman seem to be held high here.

Brookes Bros - the shirts that started the look .

post #10533 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

You have to remember just how expensive the original clobber was back then , i certainly could not afford Levi Sta prest as a boy .

That's true. Four kids, council estate, Mum a student nurse in the '70s etc. Just been having the same conversation on the phone with a mate, warning him about the new Baracuta prices...

 

But these new prices, for what have now become international fashion brands (FP, Sherman, Baracuta, "Airwair International") are beyond the pale (as they'd say in Dublin). At least Griggs have decided not to sell off Dr Martens, though. 

post #10534 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post

Brookes Bros - the shirts that started the look .

True (albeit copied from English polo players). But have you seen the price in the UK? eh.gif

post #10535 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermelon man View Post

That's true. Four kids, council estate, Mum a student nurse in the '70s etc. Just been having the same conversation on the phone with a mate, warning him about the new Baracuta prices...

But these new prices, for what have now become international fashion brands (FP, Sherman, Baracuta, "Airwair International") are beyond the pale (as they'd say in Dublin). At least Griggs have decided not to sell off Dr Martens, though. 

When we invented the Skinhead fashion [ not knowing we was skinheads] at school 67/68..we wore cheap cloths, Cherry Red Commando, Army Hob Nails, and Steel Cap Boots, Dickies jeans, Nylon Monkey Jackets, any type of Shirt, Sweatshirts, Donkey Jackets, Jungle Greens, Heavy Cardigans, Back then the fashion was pure Working Class..
post #10536 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfronted View Post



Brookes Bros - the shirts that started the look .

Gant do a nice shirt, also Facconable..which is the nearest to what I wore in 69/70.
post #10537 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watermelon man View Post

New shirts. Always a controversial subject, but here goes...

Jump the Gun
http://www.jumpthegun.co.uk/

Tend to be small, so buy bigger than you normally would. Good collars, though.


Britac
http://www.britac.net/shop/index.php?language=en

Brilliant designs. They could clean up if they got their customer service right.


Mikkel Rude
http://mikkelrude.co.uk/

Overpriced, I think. 'Skinhead style' rather than authentic. Quality variable.


Brutus
http://www.brutus-trimfit.com/

People are snobby about these re-issues and true, the quality varies a bit (some are Oxford cloth, but others are more like cheesecloth). You have to be selective. Some also say the repro collars don't roll correctly. This is probably due to the variable nature of the cloth rather than the cut, IMO.


Warrior
http://www.warriorclothing.org/

I'll be shot down for mentioning them, but I think their quality is improving. If you're on a budget, and want a new rather than second-hand shirt, they are OK.

Thank you very much for your extensive answer. Very kind of you. Jump the Gun looks very interesting, lots of nice stuff (not only the shirts). Will probably place an order.
post #10538 of 18915
Facconable.

Nice size collar, fairly high second button, Rear pleat and hanging loop.





post #10539 of 18915

Yes Facconable are good..but sizes start big. I also unpicked the logo on the chest on mine (had to !! couldnt help it)

 

In terms of styling and quality fit etc i would say Mikkel rudes are bang on. Yes not cheap but you get what you pay for. They are more 70's in collar sizing and styling.

Failing that - Find a decent tailor and get a old one copied. I have stopped buying stuff now, going down the MTM route for everything. Expensive but only way you can get what you want..

post #10540 of 18915
Facconable and Brooks Brothers are my favorites for shirts. BB doesn't have the button on the back collar. Facconable has different cuts, some of which run big to huge. Go for the "classic" and you're good. I'm not a fan of the huge collars that MR has.
post #10541 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by McDermott View Post

Yes Facconable are good..but sizes start big. I also unpicked the logo on the chest on mine (had to !! couldnt help it)

In terms of styling and quality fit etc i would say Mikkel rudes are bang on. Yes not cheap but you get what you pay for. They are more 70's in collar sizing and styling.
Failing that - Find a decent tailor and get a old one copied. I have stopped buying stuff now, going down the MTM route for everything. Expensive but only way you can get what you want..

Not into Mikkel Rudes..The collars seem massive far bigger than what we wore in the 60s, Also the pocket don't match the overall patten.. which looks cheap, But i do agree get one made, I have shirts that i have paid £140, for a little more one can get em made, the down side of this is you have to order a minimum of Three, Also often the bespoke shirt workmanship can be sub standard of a high end off the peg shirt.

Regarding Facconable they do, a Classic fit which is a little baggy, Custom, more tailored and Slim fit, Custom is the best fit.

Most my shirts are Ralph Lauren, Not Skinhead, More Ivy pure quality.
post #10542 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post


Not into Mikkel Rudes..The collars seem massive far bigger than what we wore in the 60s, Also the pocket don't match the overall patten.. which looks cheap, But i do agree get one made, I have shirts that i have paid £140, for a little more one can get em made, the down side of this is you have to order a minimum of Three, Also often the bespoke shirt workmanship can be sub standard of a high end off the peg shirt.

Regarding Facconable they do, a Classic fit which is a little baggy, Custom, more tailored and Slim fit, Custom is the best fit.

Most my shirts are Ralph Lauren, Not Skinhead, More Ivy pure quality.

You Seem to have a more classic later 60's look as you have mentioned Roy, smaller collar roll, a slightly baggier fit with a bit of  puff round waistband , sometimes no sleeve detail. J.simons style, ivy style. I have shirts like it but have found myself wearing more later 70's styled brutus/jaytex/inshop, higher collar, sleeve detail more trim fit. I think a twisted pocket can look nice depending on the check, some dont work as well as others. I also like a twisted placket on things like a gingham check.

£140 is alot, depends on fabric. Polycotton for bright checks some stripes, heavier oxford for plains i prefer, min of 3 sounds a bit crap i would hunt around a bit nod[1].gif

Latest shirt im having made is a bit different, like a geometric pattern, almost a flower print with some unique sleeve detail. Does anyone remember those kind of geometric prints being worn later suedehead going into smooth ? Heres one of the pattern i opted for, no doubt not everyones cup of tea but just some different away from the checks and plains..

 

 

 

 

Also had these made, might bring up a few memories. No NOT skinhead but later 70's , 73'-74 ? Big on the Soul scene etc

 

*

post #10543 of 18915

Anybody try their luck with Gitman Vintage shirts?  I have a few and they seem to be loosely based on the old Brooks Brothers/J Press shirts.  Their OCBD's are nice and if you chuck them in the dryer after washing(rather than line dry), the sleeves shrink about 1/2" so they fit me perfectly.  No overly huge collar like on Mikkel Rude, and they're very well constructed.  Buttondown collar, button on back of collar, locker loop, center pleat which ain't stitched in, and not wicked slim-fitting like, say, Brutus.  Thin-fitting without being restrictive, enough room for an average-buit fellow without the billowing '90s yuppie look.   

 

Gotta say, I figured somebody would mention Relco within the last few posts.  For the money, Relco make a decent "budget" shirt.  Have put mine through a few washes and they seem to hold up OK.  

Workmanship doesn't seem amazing, but again if you're on a budget they seem to look the part. 

post #10544 of 18915
Good Post Mc Dermott & Botolph,
I have to say i do not seek any original stuff, But i would love to get hold of a couple of 60s Ben Shermans they was beautiful shirts,
I like JPress and Gitman nice Vintage shirts, Very Ivy ..I cant remember the label of the American shirts we bought from the Ivy/Squire shops, But they would have been similar, Poly/Cotton mix, easy to Iron, We paid £5 in 69 an awful lot of money back then, We knew when we walked into the Disco, the chance of anyone else wearing the same shirt was remote..as Simmons always had limited stock on a paticular patten.
Thinking back the Ben Sherman was a superior shirt, But we wanted the Made in USA label,smile.gif

BD Baggies bought from the Ivy Shop around 80,



A unusual BD Ralph Laren,



post #10545 of 18915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasttye View Post

Good Post Mc Dermott & Botolph,
I have to say i do not seek any original stuff, But i would love to get hold of a couple of 60s Ben Shermans they was beautiful shirts,
I like JPress and Gitman nice Vintage shirts, Very Ivy ..I cant remember the label of the American shirts we bought from the Ivy/Squire shops, But they would have been similar, Poly/Cotton mix, easy to Iron, We paid £5 in 69 an awful lot of money back then, We knew when we walked into the Disco, the chance of anyone else wearing the same shirt was remote..as Simmons always had limited stock on a paticular patten.
Thinking back the Ben Sherman was a superior shirt, But we wanted the Made in USA label,smile.gif

 

 

  I still find it fascinating that such an Anglo-centric subculture has some of its roots in American Ivy Style.  For me, being only a fella in my late 30s, it's like it's all come full circle.  Living in Boston and born and bred in New England, the Ivy look has always been around.  As a kid of 15 being a skinhead, My buddies and I thought we were the furthest thing from that, looking the way we did and all... but come to find out, the origins of "our look" was heavily influenced by "them". 

  This thread really is an incredible dearth of information, not only for curious "normals", but for those of us ITK.  Trainspotter Skinheads Club happy.gif

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