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Australian Members - Page 657

post #9841 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by I am DIL View Post



It doesn't look like Spalla Camicia, but, rather, the shoulder pad and the sleeve head don't sit right on my shoulder.


I'm being a fucking idiot, aren't I?

No... spalla camicia is roping which is a whole detail. I mean puckering or dimpling a bit like in a tie fold around the sleeve head. Can anyone help explain this?
post #9842 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

No... spalla camicia is roping which is a whole detail. I mean puckering or dimpling a bit like in a tie fold around the sleeve head. Can anyone help explain this?

Actually I thought spalla camicia was a very soft unstructured shoulder (literally a 'shirt shoulder'). The ruffling you are talking about though is generally called a Neapolitan shoulder I believe.
post #9843 of 54679
Just means the sleeve and the shoulder hole either haven't been stitched properly, or the arm hole and sleeve arn't the same shape. Not a big deal.

In London my alterations tailor unstitched the sleeves on my coat to adjust sleeve length (rather than take sleeve up from the. Bottom) stitched back on in one day and charged me £20. Such a rip off here.
post #9844 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

No... spalla camicia is roping which is a whole detail. I mean puckering or dimpling a bit like in a tie fold around the sleeve head. Can anyone help explain this?

Y u no post pics?
post #9845 of 54679
Deleted
post #9846 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobiasj View Post

Y u no post pics?

See the rest of the forum. Been discussed in detail a million times.
post #9847 of 54679
^ User jefferyd has an informative thread on here about "shoulder expression".
post #9848 of 54679
Oh sorry I thought it was your jacket jobro. My bad.
post #9849 of 54679

Sydneysiders,

 

There's a shop in Pitt St called Enrico Santi Shoes, between Liverpool and Goulburn, which has 40% off Loakes at the moment. I checked them out and most are around $250-270 (with the discount). A good deal, if you like Loakes.

 

Cheers,

 

Eightace

post #9850 of 54679
Pictures as requested.

247

The toes look a little distorted in this picture, which I think is due to the shoe trees. I'm using Woodlore epics, but I think I'll have to find a pair that fit better.

192

Double sole, Topy'd(gasp!)

233

Closeup on the stitching. Shoes are hand welted.

232

233
Closeup on the closed channel.

This was my first MTM shoe, with my only other SF approved footwear being a pair of RMW's. MTM is definitely a learning experience, and there are a lot of things I will do differently for my next order.
I'm very happy with the finishing and quality for the price I paid, and the fit is 90% perfect. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
post #9851 of 54679
Thanks for the info fxh and lennier.

Sounds like they are bespoke tailors from what lennier is describing. The 'part-way' done suit is probably the basted fitting. It is standard operating procedure for tailors. In that case, it makes sense that it would cost more than PJohnson who modify a standard pattern, offshore.

I might go to them when my piggy bank fills up. Hopefully they will work with customer supplied cloth as I have an awesome length of suiting which I want to get made up.
post #9852 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naka View Post

Pictures as requested.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
247

The toes look a little distorted in this picture, which I think is due to the shoe trees. I'm using Woodlore epics, but I think I'll have to find a pair that fit better.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
192

Double sole, Topy'd(gasp!) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
233

Closeup on the stitching. Shoes are hand welted.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
232
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
233
Closeup on the closed channel.

This was my first MTM shoe, with my only other SF approved footwear being a pair of RMW's. MTM is definitely a learning experience, and there are a lot of things I will do differently for my next order.
I'm very happy with the finishing and quality for the price I paid, and the fit is 90% perfect. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

As lovely as the first time I saw them.

I don't think you'll have much luck on better fitting trees, short of getting lasted ones.

Do you know if its a true angled closed channel or one of the more vertical ones that you tend to find on rtw?

Also what would you do differently?
Edited by Plestor - 1/31/12 at 9:46pm
post #9853 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by " 
Thanks for the info fxh and lennier.
Sounds like they are bespoke tailors from what lennier is describing. The 'part-way' done suit is probably the basted fitting. It is standard operating procedure for tailors. In that case, it makes sense that it would cost more than PJohnson who modify a standard pattern, offshore.

No worries, but take what I said about the process with a grain of salt. They *aren't* full bespoke with a basted fitting, I'm pretty certain (certainly not at their starting prices anyway) and my recollection of them being somewhere between normal offshore MTM and bespoke may have been based on a lack of knowledge at the time and me assuming that a 'fitting' was more than just the post-make check for alterations as done by PJohnson and most other MTM operations. I found Nick very approachable to talk to though, so I'd just drop in and have a chat if you were interested in how they do what they do.
post #9854 of 54679
Quote:
Originally Posted by " 
Thanks for the info fxh and lennier.
Sounds like they are bespoke tailors from what lennier is describing. The 'part-way' done suit is probably the basted fitting. It is standard operating procedure for tailors. In that case, it makes sense that it would cost more than PJohnson who modify a standard pattern, offshore.
I might go to them when my piggy bank fills up. Hopefully they will work with customer supplied cloth as I have an awesome length of suiting which I want to get made up.

They certainly were proper old school bespoke years ago when I used them.
I doubt it would make sense for them to send offshore if they can do in house. But I could be wrong.

Best way is to ask them - they were always friendly in the past.
post #9855 of 54679

Gents,

 

I have 3 pairs of Woodlore Mens Ultra shoe trees, BNIB, with blank name plates, up for grabs.

 

The only catch is they're all size Small, for US 6.5E-8E according to the Cedarville website.

 

PM me if interested.

 

Eightace

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