Henry Carter
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I think cutler have a MTM option also, but your about spot on for their bespoke pricing.
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Highly modifying an existing block = MTM.
Only drafting a pattern for you = Bespoke.
HBone: don't like the pattern.
Cutler: You sure 2K is what they charge? I believe Cutler is bespoke, not MTM, and one of those that charges 6K and above.
Zegna is indeed about 3K... for a basic suit.
what size were the Zegna pieces and blazer?Just got back from PJ. Commissioned a suit of charcoal twill Aniston fabric. 3 roll 2, flap pockets, a conservative siuit as we head into the cooler weather.
Matt tried to sell me on a birdseye fabric that a nice chap from here ordered, but I don't want to end up at the pub wearing the same suit as the next guy.
Had a v. frustrating morning at the op shops, having to leave behind a stack of mostly Zegna pieces beause they didn't fit. These included a pure cashmere blue blazer, a Su Misura suit and what looked like a brand-new pair of wool slacks by Incotex. The day was saved when I found a Cantarelli blazer that fits perfectly. Tom told me it's 3 ply wool, so nice score.
Also re discussing retailers profit margins - #thingswedonttalkabout
What im saying is I don't really think its anyones business speculating on what profit margins (insert name) retailer charges. If you think it's too expensive, then dont buy it! Simple
Highly modifying an existing block = MTM.
I was surprised to see recently that John Cutler does have a much cheaper option, which I assume is MTM.
It's called something like "London Style by Cutler" and prices start at around $1750, if I remember the article correctly.
The Su Misura suit fitted like about a 40R drop 6, at a guess. I would have taken it, but there was a small stain on the pamts pocket that looked to me like it wouldn't come out. My guess at the casmere blazer size would be 44. I'm somewhere between 40 and 42 right now and I thought it a little large. The pants were huge - size 60. There was also a Zegna silk/cotton top that was just weird. It fitted Eu 50 or 52, but the shoulders were halfway down my biceps and the sleeves below my fingertips.what size were the Zegna pieces and blazer?
Not according to Thomas Mahon. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html
All bespoke tailors use some sort of pattern drafting method so there is a common 'algorithm' anyway.
Side note: Isaia Su Misura will be available in Sydney soon, probably around a similar price point to Zegna.
And this is where it gets very gray and murky.
Sound suspiciously like high quality MTM, whereas Mahon's description of MTM sounds more like MTO (made to order) which is what most so-called MTM operations do.
Does this mean though, that the more flexible an MTM system is, the closer it's similarity to Bespoke Pattern Manipulation?
I'd wager that if your build doesn't deviate too far from the mythical average man, either high-quality MTM or Mahon's described method (I'm aware this is not his preference) would suffice.
Lastly, just a caution wrt big brand MTM: how well your suit fits is heavily influenced by the person fitting you. Outfits like Zegna (personal experience) are dangerously inconsistent on this area, as fitting skill varies from store to store.