Australian Members



Michael Sy said:

But Patrick went to the Row for an extended period of time? He wasn't there just to learn how to fit a suit. He learned how to make a suit. If he wanted to, he could make suits for all his clients, which makes him a tailor. Just because he decides not to make the suit doesn't relinquish his title as a tailor.

My example was a bit extreme, but in this instance, I think it is accurate for Patrick to call himself a tailor.

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I was referring generally to anyone not Patrick, though he worked with a shirt maker in Jermyn Street not with a tailor on the Row, so the correct term would be shirt maker if you want to be technical. So the term P.Johnson tailors is correct, because as a company they still employ tailors to make the actual clothes to ones measurements, but the person fitting those clothes is in this case not a tailor.

Heres some homework for you - http://www.smh.com.au/executive-style/style/in-the-hands-of-a-few-good-men-20120718-22adw.html

Michael Sy said:

How do you always manage to get the front of your collar to bend down either side perfectly, everytime?

That collar isn't as 'cutaway' as the HC ones, right?

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Nope it's not as cutaway. I don't know how it bends down to be honest, good genetics?



California Dreamer said:

That's a term I've not seen. What are Austerity brogues?

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Henry Carter said:

Pretty much a brogue, (or wingtip) depending on what you call them without any brogeuing on them (punching). Like this -

http://www.meermin.es/ficha_articulo.php?id=2728

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I believe the style originated during WWII where, among other things, gentlemen were encouraged to be thrifty with their use of leather. So rather than making traditional brogues which have an extra layer of leather applied with brogueing over the toes, the Northampton makers introduced "austerity" brogues which were basically ersatz versions of full brogues made with a single layer of leather, and stitches in the place of where the brogued piece of leather usually sat atop the vamp, thus imitatating the look of a real brogue but using less materials.

They sustained some popularity as many ppl liked the look of these shoes which were somewhere between a captoe and a true brogue. Nowadays though most "austerity" brogues use the extra piece of leather like a real brogue, only maintaining the more severe look of the WWII era originals.

Traditional brogue:


"Austerity" brogue:

Patrick himself is not a tailor. He does not cut cloth, nor draft patterns, nor construct the clothes. He employs tailors (in a factory) to do that for him, same as many other businesses do. Nothing wrong with that.

Pink Socks said:

Pink socks for the day (for JM and anyone else disappointed I am not wearing pink socks tonight...not that you really care but you know).

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Boom those socks are intense!

I've always liked Austerity Brogues. Just my 2c.

+20

I should get some.

thebrownman said:

I've always liked Austerity Brogues. Just my 2c.

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Me too, but they strike me as more suited for cordovan rather than calf leather, due to their sleekness and formal (relative to the full brogue) nature.

I sold those exact Vass Brogues to a Aus forum member last year and have regretted it ever since...

^^ I think they look great in either calf or cordovan. In fact, I prefer calf.



jaypee said:

I sold those exact Vass Brogues to a Aus forum member last year and have regretted it ever since...

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That was me!

They are gorgeous shoes but, unfortunately, they are slightly too small for me and I think that for any future Vass purchases, I'll go up .5 of a size.

You could always buy them back off me again, as I've only worn them three times since I bought them!

i really want to try a pair of Vass but havent had time to research sizing



Romp said:

i really want to try a pair of Vass but havent had time to research sizing

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Vass sizing is metric isn't it? As if it wasn't hard enough even when you know your UK size, you'd have to convert that to EU sizing as well, which isn't always a straightforward conversion. Then there are different lasts to consider...

There is one solution:
http://travel.webjet.com.au/webjett...1&NumChild=0&NumInfant=0&image.x=56&image.y=6

I put my foot through a brand new pair of pantherellas today :'(



Oli2012 said:

I put my foot through a brand new pair of pantherellas today :'(

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It's ok, you're supposed to wear them on your feet.

Got this from O&J today. And it might even be cool enough for a jacket here tomorrow--timing!