or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Australian Members - Page 3496

post #52426 of 57246
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

I agree that it's not birdseye or nailhead. 

It looks rather like the hopsack weave fabric in an old Brooks Brothers odd jacket of mine, so it could be hopsack. 

Then again, I could be entirely wrong.
Yeah.. Just realised you can zoom on the original. I think your closest..

Looks maybe 2x2 basket/hopsack weave which is just a variation of plain weave using 2 yarn vs 1 yarn
post #52427 of 57246

Sydneysiders,

 

Henry Bucks sale is now on instore (apologies if previously mentioned).

post #52428 of 57246

Hi Lukejackson



are we talking cloth or fabric here?. If cloth definitely not hopsack or nailhead, and closest to a birdseye but the length between the birdseyes is not long enough vertically to be that from the way I see the photo. This looks the same length vertically as diagonally so can't be birdseye. If shirting, I would have to guess a bit of oxford as a rough outsider. Either way if you have a cat,it would pull it to bits. any of those weaves, one drunken night leaning against the rough concrete wall and your birdseye has a little thread coming out.Have you bought it already? ask the shop would be the best bet, they should have that info or be able to get it.



 



Tip for any reading  re  white /black birdseye, and POW check for that matter... always wear the coat as much as possible. Eventually you get a difference in colour between the white of the jacket and the yellowing white of the trouser.



Hope that is helpful



Have a good day. Keep looking for that " Anne Wilkins" No stalking, just looking.



Regards



Brendon

post #52429 of 57246
Cheap natural leather harness belt in case anyone is after one:

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/orion-harness-leather-belt?mode=guest_open
post #52430 of 57246
A summer suit?

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90

Never sure about these tones.
post #52431 of 57246
Ernie

On my monitor picture one is decidedly lighter than picture two. If two is the correct colour I would say yes it would be a fine edition to a summer wardrobe.

White, pink or even a deeper blue shirt would would be suitable with it. Pale yellow depending upon complexion.
post #52432 of 57246
^not a big fan of the gorge height. Colour is nice. Cut a bit standard/boring IMO.
post #52433 of 57246
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey Firmin View Post

Ernie

On my monitor picture one is decidedly lighter than picture two. If two is the correct colour I would say yes it would be a fine edition to a summer wardrobe.

Cheers. Think the second pic is more accurate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

^not a big fan of the gorge height. Colour is nice. Cut a bit standard/boring IMO.

Yeah gorge isn't right.

As for it being a bit standard/boring, it's a bog standard G and H (and priced as such).
post #52434 of 57246

Hi Henry Carter and Ernesto

Gorge height , elaborate please up or down?  Just curious to know what the thoughts are on this. Sorry to put you on the spot. No right or wrong with this, just curious to know what the VOX pop is with this

Brendon

post #52435 of 57246
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

Hi Henry Carter and Ernesto
Gorge height , elaborate please up or down?  Just curious to know what the thoughts are on this. Sorry to put you on the spot. No right or wrong with this, just curious to know what the VOX pop is with this
Brendon

I like it a bit higher and I think that would be the consensus around here.

I don't think that jacket is too bad, and I have seen some jackets lately where the gorge appears to be disappearing over the shoulder, but higher would be better.
post #52436 of 57246

Ernesto 

fair call.... From a technical point of view a peak lapel on the high gorge can be  a disaster when you can see it come over from the back of the jacket. There is a limit as to how high you can get gorge and get a good run of the collar. Still most of my clients would have their gorge around there. But most of them have not heard of Style forum too.The young bucks a little higher and the older gentleman I am working on today, much lower but still about an inch above the norm from say 10 or so years ago. Thanks for replying on this too. Putting a line in the sand on the internet, great and when the fashion changes to the lower gorge in 15 years I will not be quoting this back to you. On a positive the sleeve is well pressed on this coat at the crown and the cut is not as bad as some I have seen. At the end of the day it is all opinion. The suit is really the culmination in a hundred years of the male being the dominant of the species in society. In fact the cut of suits over the last decade would be one of the first times it has moved away from this. If I was a social historian this would be interesting, but as a tailor it can be a challenge and tailors from Beau B onwards have always had to deal with fashion. I have a large collection ( large for me) of tailoring books going back to the late 1880's with weekly a hundred or so Tailor and Cutters going back to the 1940's and " todays look" comes up often. You can see the gorge go up and down a little. The current trend is the highest I have seen it. In the Thornton's Sectonal System 1st Ed, they talk about fashion as it would have applied to the elite. The best name of a garment I have read about to date...." Tally Ho Breeches" what fun they must have been.

Brendon

post #52437 of 57246

I have indeed seen pictures of Al Jolson and a young Bing Crosby from the late 20s and 30s where the coats are tighter cut, with less shoulder padding, more cut away at the bottom of the front, and worn shorter like current trends. When choosing a sports coat or suit (RTW or to be made), I generally feel that an un-padded shoulder with a high gorge doesn't look good on me (I'm round enough already). I prefer a small amount of padding with a gorge somewhere between the modern trend and the classic position, perhaps something like Brendon is discussing. But that's just for me, on me.

post #52438 of 57246
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

Hi Henry Carter and Ernesto
Gorge height , elaborate please up or down?  Just curious to know what the thoughts are on this. Sorry to put you on the spot. No right or wrong with this, just curious to know what the VOX pop is with this
Brendon
I like it not too high and not too low. Around where you shirt collar points finish is a good general guide I work off (though not so reliable with cutaway collars).
post #52439 of 57246

Hi gents;

Suggestions for tuxes in Sydney? Can't do MTM/bespoke I'm afraid, got called up for a gig in 3 weeks. Otherwise been looking at buying online from suitsupply, but as always trying stuff on would be preferable. 

post #52440 of 57246
Seem to recall low gorges were a bit of a 90s thing as well (not to mention some people producing double breasted with notches in the 90s!).
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members