Looks maybe 2x2 basket/hopsack weave which is just a variation of plain weave using 2 yarn vs 1 yarn
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Australian Members - Page 3496post #52426 of 640577/27/14 at 4:20am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #52427 of 640577/27/14 at 5:23ampost #52428 of 640577/27/14 at 5:41pm
are we talking cloth or fabric here?. If cloth definitely not hopsack or nailhead, and closest to a birdseye but the length between the birdseyes is not long enough vertically to be that from the way I see the photo. This looks the same length vertically as diagonally so can't be birdseye. If shirting, I would have to guess a bit of oxford as a rough outsider. Either way if you have a cat,it would pull it to bits. any of those weaves, one drunken night leaning against the rough concrete wall and your birdseye has a little thread coming out.Have you bought it already? ask the shop would be the best bet, they should have that info or be able to get it.
Tip for any reading re white /black birdseye, and POW check for that matter... always wear the coat as much as possible. Eventually you get a difference in colour between the white of the jacket and the yellowing white of the trouser.
Hope that is helpful
Have a good day. Keep looking for that " Anne Wilkins" No stalking, just looking.
Brendonpost #52429 of 640577/27/14 at 5:55pmpost #52430 of 640577/27/14 at 7:28pmpost #52431 of 640577/27/14 at 7:35pmpost #52432 of 640577/27/14 at 7:42pmpost #52433 of 640577/27/14 at 8:06pmQuote:
Cheers. Think the second pic is more accurate.Quote:
Yeah gorge isn't right.
As for it being a bit standard/boring, it's a bog standard G and H (and priced as such).post #52434 of 640577/27/14 at 8:28pmpost #52435 of 640577/27/14 at 8:37pmQuote:
I like it a bit higher and I think that would be the consensus around here.
I don't think that jacket is too bad, and I have seen some jackets lately where the gorge appears to be disappearing over the shoulder, but higher would be better.post #52436 of 640577/27/14 at 10:00pm
fair call.... From a technical point of view a peak lapel on the high gorge can be a disaster when you can see it come over from the back of the jacket. There is a limit as to how high you can get gorge and get a good run of the collar. Still most of my clients would have their gorge around there. But most of them have not heard of Style forum too.The young bucks a little higher and the older gentleman I am working on today, much lower but still about an inch above the norm from say 10 or so years ago. Thanks for replying on this too. Putting a line in the sand on the internet, great and when the fashion changes to the lower gorge in 15 years I will not be quoting this back to you. On a positive the sleeve is well pressed on this coat at the crown and the cut is not as bad as some I have seen. At the end of the day it is all opinion. The suit is really the culmination in a hundred years of the male being the dominant of the species in society. In fact the cut of suits over the last decade would be one of the first times it has moved away from this. If I was a social historian this would be interesting, but as a tailor it can be a challenge and tailors from Beau B onwards have always had to deal with fashion. I have a large collection ( large for me) of tailoring books going back to the late 1880's with weekly a hundred or so Tailor and Cutters going back to the 1940's and " todays look" comes up often. You can see the gorge go up and down a little. The current trend is the highest I have seen it. In the Thornton's Sectonal System 1st Ed, they talk about fashion as it would have applied to the elite. The best name of a garment I have read about to date...." Tally Ho Breeches" what fun they must have been.
Brendonpost #52437 of 640577/27/14 at 10:51pm
I have indeed seen pictures of Al Jolson and a young Bing Crosby from the late 20s and 30s where the coats are tighter cut, with less shoulder padding, more cut away at the bottom of the front, and worn shorter like current trends. When choosing a sports coat or suit (RTW or to be made), I generally feel that an un-padded shoulder with a high gorge doesn't look good on me (I'm round enough already). I prefer a small amount of padding with a gorge somewhere between the modern trend and the classic position, perhaps something like Brendon is discussing. But that's just for me, on me.post #52438 of 640577/27/14 at 10:54pmpost #52439 of 640577/27/14 at 10:59pm
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