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post #38626 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxhound View Post
 

So. Suiting. It's time for me to buy my first Suit. Well. Non POS RDX suit that is. I'm after a vibrant navy. Something similar to this;

 

With notch lapels and flap pockets.

I had a fitting with Oscar Hunt today, but I'm not convinced, now that I learn the suits are made in china. ZZZ. Huddersfield cloth though. Also very expensive, at $1300.

I'd like fully canvased. Another idea I had, buying the material myself, and taking it to a tailor to get made up. But is there anyone good who will do this for me in Melbourne?

 

Foxhound, I'm sorry in advance if I come off abrupt, but there are multiple issues here:

 

1) Your first suit should definitely not be a fully canvassed $1300 MTM number. Frankly, until you have been wearing suits for a while you will have no idea what looks good on you, what is comfortable and what is versatile.

 

2) That something is made in China is increasingly irrelevant. China now has the ability to make extremely high quality suits and jackets and this has revolutionised the entire industry

 

3) If you are only getting one suit, being fully canvassed is probably overkill. The marginal benefit of full canvas compared to half canvas is not worth it in many cases, and will make your suit too warm to wear in Spring, Summer and even warm Autumn days.

 

4) I have never heard of Oscar Hunt. This doesn't mean particularly much (I'm nothing special), but I do pride myself on monitoring the menswear space in Australia. Upon further investigation they appear to be one of the dime-a-dozen startups over the past five years offering average offshore MTM services. The pictures I could find (and there weren't many which is perhaps illuminating in itself) were not impressive, particularly for the amount of money you were thinking of spending. The lapels in particular were shocking, not a pick stitch to be seen.

 

5) You won't save that much money in Australia buying fabric and taking it to a tailor, and many tailors will turn you down anyway

 

6) My longest and most difficult point: 

Your attitude to buying a suit appears to reflect your overall attitude to buying clothing (which I can only attempt to ascertain from your posts on this forum). You dive into everything way too quickly. You are accumulating a wardrobe and other accessories at such a rate than I think you will look back on and regret.

- Firstly, you are 19, likely still growing, you likely are still "discovering yourself" (for lack of a less kitschy phrase) and consequently you are likely still developing a sense of style, since our style is the most obvious way in which we all present our image of ourselves, or more likely the image which we want to be. The rate at which you expand your wardrobe should reflect this. 

 - Secondly, allow yourself more time to mull over whether you want or need something, how it fits into your existing collection and how much wear you will get out of it. You appear to be purchasing a whole range of items with limited versatility. When people do this (and I have fallen into this trap many times), they come off extremely contrived and often insecure, because the clothing wears them and not the other way around.

 - Thirdly, you are spending ALOT of money for a 19 year old. If you are a Russian oligarch (it wouldn't be the strangest thing you have posted), please ignore this point. If not, consider if you are actually getting the satisfaction out of your purchases that you think you will. Sure, you have the right to spend your money as you please (at least I hope it's your money), but coming from a bloke not much older than you, you will regret it if you have forfeited the ability to spend your money on other things because you are trying to dress to an aesthetic you garnered from a warped internet forum.

 

Sooooo, in closing I would reccomend going to MJ Bale or somewhere cheap, spending less money on multiple suits, with much though to versatility and longevity, getting them altered and revisiting the prospect of getting something made in a while when you can better ascertain your concept of what looks good on you and what you want to dress like.

post #38627 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post
 

 

 

 

Nup, totally with Jason on this one. Pink looks great on grey/black suits.

 

Pink looks shit on most things. Its not professional, and any merit it had as a useful colour got thrown out after that 00's pink/purple/aqua/green/black business shirt phase.

 

I've seen it work okay on some ruddy caucasians, thats about it.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartagnanRed View Post
 

 

Looks like mine except i went a traditional french navy rather than sharkskin. Its beautiful.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxhound View Post
 

So. Suiting. It's time for me to buy my first Suit. Well. Non POS RDX suit that is. I'm after a vibrant navy. Something similar to this;

 

[insert pictures of powderpuffs]

 

With notch lapels and flap pockets.

I had a fitting with Oscar Hunt today, but I'm not convinced, now that I learn the suits are made in china. ZZZ. Huddersfield cloth though. Also very expensive, at $1300.

I'd like fully canvased. Another idea I had, buying the material myself, and taking it to a tailor to get made up. But is there anyone good who will do this for me in Melbourne?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartagnanRed View Post
 

 

Foxhound, I'm sorry in advance if I come off abrupt, but there are multiple issues here:

 

1) Your first suit should definitely not be a fully canvassed $1300 MTM number. Frankly, until you have been wearing suits for a while you will have no idea what looks good on you, what is comfortable and what is versatile.

 

2) That something is made in China is increasingly irrelevant. China now has the ability to make extremely high quality suits and jackets and this has revolutionised the entire industry

 

3) If you are only getting one suit, being fully canvassed is probably overkill. The marginal benefit of full canvas compared to half canvas is not worth it in many cases, and will make your suit too warm to wear in Spring, Summer and even warm Autumn days.

 

4) I have never heard of Oscar Hunt. This doesn't mean particularly much (I'm nothing special), but I do pride myself on monitoring the menswear space in Australia. Upon further investigation they appear to be one of the dime-a-dozen startups over the past five years offering average offshore MTM services. The pictures I could find (and there weren't many which is perhaps illuminating in itself) were not impressive, particularly for the amount of money you were thinking of spending. The lapels in particular were shocking, not a pick stitch to be seen.

 

5) You won't save that much money in Australia buying fabric and taking it to a tailor, and many tailors will turn you down anyway

 

6) My longest and most difficult point: 

Your attitude to buying a suit appears to reflect your overall attitude to buying clothing (which I can only attempt to ascertain from your posts on this forum). You dive into everything way too quickly. You are accumulating a wardrobe and other accessories at such a rate than I think you will look back on and regret.

- Firstly, you are 19, likely still growing, you likely are still "discovering yourself" (for lack of a less kitschy phrase) and consequently you are likely still developing a sense of style, since our style is the most obvious way in which we all present our image of ourselves, or more likely the image which we want to be. The rate at which you expand your wardrobe should reflect this. 

 - Secondly, allow yourself more time to mull over whether you want or need something, how it fits into your existing collection and how much wear you will get out of it. You appear to be purchasing a whole range of items with limited versatility. When people do this (and I have fallen into this trap many times), they come off extremely contrived and often insecure, because the clothing wears them and not the other way around.

 - Thirdly, you are spending ALOT of money for a 19 year old. If you are a Russian oligarch (it wouldn't be the strangest thing you have posted), please ignore this point. If not, consider if you are actually getting the satisfaction out of your purchases that you think you will. Sure, you have the right to spend your money as you please (at least I hope it's your money), but coming from a bloke not much older than you, you will regret it if you have forfeited the ability to spend your money on other things because you are trying to dress to an aesthetic you garnered from a warped internet forum.

 

Sooooo, in closing I would reccomend going to MJ Bale or somewhere cheap, spending less money on multiple suits, with much though to versatility and longevity, getting them altered and revisiting the prospect of getting something made in a while when you can better ascertain your concept of what looks good on you and what you want to dress like.

 

I agree with DR. You'd be better off starting with the 2x$1K deal from MJ Bale. Get a decent navy and solid grey. They will serve as a blank canvas you can play with. 

If you make things 'too fun' like the blokes in your picture you'll render your suit useless for CBD and you won't get the wear it deserves.

post #38628 of 55016

Jason is consistently one of the most impressive dressers in this thread and goes to show RTW can be just as elegant and appropriate as MTM or bespoke which, unfairly at times, have massive precedence on this forum. I know that bias has affected me at times, maybe it has done so to you too, or maybe not.

 

FH - perhaps consider your purchases in light of this: what makes a suit 'the best' is how it fits. Very few, if any, would claim a perfectly fitting suit made from an accessible, reliable, but standard fabric is inferior to a similarly fitting suit of a more luxurious fabric - luxury is, by definition, un-necessary, supurfluous and ostentacious. I wodner if your drive to get 'the best' at times clouds you from really matters when it comes to clothes: fit and conherency within context.

 

Everyone wants their suit to be perfect - everyone - but something I learned when playing guitars custom made (comparable to suiting) is that nothing ever works as it is supposed to, and the people who get the perfect results (and are happy) accomodate, accept and utilise imperfections, flaws, inconsistencies and have a realistic outlook. It's the people who can't/won't/don't want to accept the flaws and problems that are a real part of every aspect of this world that are constantly unhappy, moving on, spending time, money, energy and effort to, ultimately, achieve nothing. A fairly extreme example, but perhaps one that sparks some thoughts.

 

All IMO and IME, limited as they both are.

post #38629 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli2012 View Post

If you make things 'too fun' like the blokes in your picture you'll render your suit useless for CBD and you won't get the wear it deserves.

 

I agree with your overall point, but I think using CBD as a guide to how versatile an item of clothing is bears rethinking - FH is a club promoter, does he really need to think about exactly how appropriate his clothes are for CBD?? I doubt many members of this thread need to dress 'true' CBD.

 

I vastly preferred your obsession with Italian Industrialist looks over this newfound glorification of CBD dressing.

Bland, robotic, rigid, uninteresting, unnecessary (for most) are the words that come to mind when CBD is mentioned. The only people who festishise CBD are the ones who lack the imagination to see how fucking bland ALL CBD dressing is.

 

/rant

 

+ necessary apologies

post #38630 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post
 

 

I agree with your overall point, but I think using CBD as a guide to how versatile an item of clothing is bears rethinking - FH is a club promoter, does he really need to think about exactly how appropriate his clothes are for CBD?? I doubt many members of this thread need to dress 'true' CBD.

 

I vastly preferred your obsession with Italian Industrialist looks over this newfound glorification of CBD dressing.

Bland, robotic, rigid, uninteresting, unnecessary (for most) are the words that come to mind when CBD is mentioned. The only people who festishise CBD are the ones who lack the imagination to see how fucking bland ALL CBD dressing is.

 

/rant

 

+ necessary apologies

I humbly disagree. Most people on here would, and those who don't probably had their initial interest in men's clothing sparked by the fact that they did. You can still do some very interesting stuff with CBD. It can be very enjoyable to see what you can do with dressing, whilst still dressing within a framework steeped in tradition. It's not peacock flamboyant, but CBD dressing is about more than simply looking good.

post #38631 of 55016
^ I suppose that it all depends on how conservative we are being, when we are talking about conservative business dress (CBD).

I somehow suspect that Oli is being very conservative (a la Manton, the originator of the CBD thread on SF), whereas others aren't nearly as conservative.

I do think that business dress in Australia is considerably less conservative than business dress in the US, particularly when talking about large accounting and law firms.
post #38632 of 55016

It's late at night and I've been writing code for the better part of the last three hours. Sorry for the warped reply. First off, thank you for your lengthy posts.

 

I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I don't think I'll buy a suit. I have my shitty RDX suit there, that I can wear, or I can throw on my silver Acne Trousers, white shirt, and my blue MJ Bale blazer. When I think about it, I rarely wear suits, absoloutely never. When I do, I can wear either that combo or my RDX. I might as well wait until I get a real job, then buy PJs or similiar that will get actual wear. I'm not making any decions as of yet. I'm apparently getting given an old suit of my uncles, which I will get tailored to fit me, it's a brown suit, I hope it looks okay. On the money thing, I don't really have any other hobbies besides video games. As some of you know I'm involved with some nightclubs but I'd like to stop that soon, it's not the greatest thing, and I'd like to focus more on my studies.

post #38633 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxhound View Post
 

It's late at night and I've been writing code for the better part of the last three hours. Sorry for the warped reply. First off, thank you for your lengthy posts.

 

I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I don't think I'll buy a suit. I have my shitty RDX suit there, that I can wear, or I can throw on my silver Acne Trousers, white shirt, and my blue MJ Bale blazer. When I think about it, I rarely wear suits, absoloutely never. When I do, I can wear either that combo or my RDX. I might as well wait until I get a real job, then buy PJs or similiar that will get actual wear. I'm not making any decions as of yet. I'm apparently getting given an old suit of my uncles, which I will get tailored to fit me, it's a brown suit, I hope it looks okay. On the money thing, I don't really have any other hobbies besides video games. As some of you know I'm involved with some nightclubs but I'd like to stop that soon, it's not the greatest thing, and I'd like to focus more on my studies.

Who even needs sleep? I'll probably grab something from suit supply for my suiting duties, or, TM Lewin have a sale on. All depends on how this suit of my uncle's goes. The bloke is about 120KG of pure racism, and has been for all my memory. But apparently back in the day he was my size. Hopefully the shoulders are a good fit and I can get the rest tailored. Also hoping for notch lapels. I'm really not a fan of Peak lapels. I can see them look good on others, but I'd only wear them with a Dinner Suit or a Double Breasted jacket.

post #38634 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post
 

 

I agree with your overall point, but I think using CBD as a guide to how versatile an item of clothing is bears rethinking - FH is a club promoter, does he really need to think about exactly how appropriate his clothes are for CBD?? I doubt many members of this thread need to dress 'true' CBD.

 

I vastly preferred your obsession with Italian Industrialist looks over this newfound glorification of CBD dressing.

Bland, robotic, rigid, uninteresting, unnecessary (for most) are the words that come to mind when CBD is mentioned. The only people who festishise CBD are the ones who lack the imagination to see how fucking bland ALL CBD dressing is.

 

/rant

 

+ necessary apologies

 

Lol no apologies needed. 

 

I live in the Hunter and work in a small firm. The place has a very rural aesthetic and you find yourself mostly dealing with small business, divorce and people down on their luck. 

My firm dabbles in wills and estates to keep things going between cases. The other day we had to break it to an old lady that unbeknownst to her, her husband had another woman and 3 kids she didn't know about and his will would have to be split 4 ways. All I could think was 'not the time for double monks'...

 

Originally Posted by Foxhound View Post
 

It's late at night and I've been writing code for the better part of the last three hours. Sorry for the warped reply. First off, thank you for your lengthy posts.

 

I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I don't think I'll buy a suit. I have my shitty RDX suit there, that I can wear, or I can throw on my silver Acne Trousers, white shirt, and my blue MJ Bale blazer. When I think about it, I rarely wear suits, absoloutely never. When I do, I can wear either that combo or my RDX. I might as well wait until I get a real job, then buy PJs or similiar that will get actual wear. I'm not making any decions as of yet. I'm apparently getting given an old suit of my uncles, which I will get tailored to fit me, it's a brown suit, I hope it looks okay. On the money thing, I don't really have any other hobbies besides video games. As some of you know I'm involved with some nightclubs but I'd like to stop that soon, it's not the greatest thing, and I'd like to focus more on my studies.

 

I don't think that buying a staple suit is a bad idea. Work aside, I get lots of wear out of mine at weddings, funerals and various functions. One of those things you don't think you need until you do. 

Just keep it basic to begin with. If you find yourself in a suit everyday you could get a light navy or nailhead to make things interesting, but i don't think you should start with full canvas M2M. 

 

Plus, if you're anything like me you'll be doing some horizontal growing over the next few years (I went from 75 to 95kg when I was your age :( )


Edited by Oli2012 - 10/2/13 at 8:44am
post #38635 of 55016

At least anyone here should already have a good leg up and plenty of resources to ensure they getting a good suit (eg fit v price etc), I lament all the money wasted on reasonably good suits / shirts that just either a) were poorly fitted or b) are now too big for me.  Not much you can do about point B, but eh still. 

post #38636 of 55016
Thanks guys, on both sides of the equation. Truth be told after years of wearing cutaway collars I'm really enjoying wearing button downs with suits (and jackets). I have a job where I don't need to worry about CBD rules or any of that, though despite that my style is still fairly conservative. I have stringent rules of my own for wearing pink, which generally involve always wearing a plain or near plain tie and more often that not navy or grey base, be they suits or not. I never, ever wear pink with other pastels or with anything lighter than a mid/dark grey (beige, light grey etc etc.)
post #38637 of 55016
Quick comment on Ripense for cgo and anyone else interested: small store including a haberdashery of sorts. The ties seemed pretty standard with a lot of lined offerings. I fondled a basted DB in a midweight navy red pinstripe and I just about died - the jacket was exquisite with big ass lapels, thick double pick stitch, soft shoulder etc etc. Otherwise there wasn't too much happening in the store - it's located close to the art gallery shown in the Valentino documentary and their wasn't much around that area.

Quick question for Romp and PoP as I remember some comments earlier in the year about Firenze (where I am now). Where to get shoes more in my range - I remember Mannina and a secret shop of PoP's which was not disclosed. Should I PM you? Otherwise, I have passed by Hidetaka after hours and saw HF himself looking very focused on the computer. The shoes are just too beautiful to be worn. Frasi and Liverano were closed today. I still have 4 days to try and get there...
post #38638 of 55016

Foxhound, if I were you Id get a nice suit, but put some serious thought into it.

 

It wasn't too long ago that I got my first suit, and had versatility in mind.

I ended up with a midnight blue herringbone fabric, and a timeless/ classic cut and style (ie proper length so that it covers your arse, roped shoulders minimal padding, medium width lapel, single break pants etc etc). This seriously looks awesome in almost any setting: wedding, funeral, work, dates, races, theatre, daytime/ nighttime. 

But I have the mindset that;

- fabric and fit are most important (you could have 2 blokes wearing the same nicely fitting suit and style, but the great material on one means it doesn't look so 'card-boardy and bland')

- with a classic style, you can just chop and change as you please: the suit is a blank canvas

- Ive also got this thing now about soft shoulders. In the above suit they would not work versatility wise: I think the soft shoulders make jackets far more casual.

 

BTW I think Gerrys suiting style is fkn awesome ;) 

His pic on the previous page for example...To the trained eye you can tell each item is quality, but he dresses understated.

Even the untrained eye would notice it not because he's dandied up, but because 'something is just right' about it. And many would consider it bland. 

 

...Just wanted to add a big shout out to wool and leather :inlove:

post #38639 of 55016
Quote:
Originally Posted by burnso View Post
 

BTW I think Gerrys suiting style is fkn awesome ;) 

His pic on the previous page for example...To the trained eye you can tell each item is quality, but he dresses understated.

Even the untrained eye would notice it not because he's dandied up, but because 'something is just right' about it. And many would consider it bland. 

 

...Just wanted to add a big shout out to wool and leather :inlove:

 

 

Wow! Thanks for the kind words! :satisfied:

post #38640 of 55016
Another day, another button down....







Herringbone
Kamakura
Henry Carter Chocolate knit
Henry Carter flannel prototype
Carmina
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