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post #37291 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

I'm curious - a small survey is needed. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

I suspect when many people on forums - not perhaps so much here on this highly regarded thread - speak of "going to a tailor" they are really talking about going to an alterationist - some more skilled than others - but not someone who can make you a bespoke jacket and trousers.

When people (YOU) here use the word - do they (YOU) mean alterationist?

When I say tailor I mean a tailor - who could make a suit from scratch.

I suspect thats not what most people mean - after all theres probably only less than 10 left in Melbourne, 3 in Sydney and none anywhere else.

Compete survey here:: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

I'll post results in a week.

 

There's a handful of proper tailors in Brissie, but the majority of them are so old that you wouldn't be guaranteed that they'd live to complete a bespoke suit. Some of them are even getting too old to be trusted for alterations. It's a real shame.

 

For alterations i go to a guy who has retired from hands-on work, he does the styling/thinking and farms out the manual labour to his underlings. I'm fine with that, it's how the whole of modern tailoring/suit-making has gone.

 

Oh, and thanks for the info on MJ's returns policy, Osiris. I had no idea it was that accomodating! Might still have to pop in on a trip south, the site has no info on leg widths (but has belt loop size?!).

post #37292 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post
 

 

There's a handful of proper tailors in Brissie, but the majority of them are so old that you wouldn't be guaranteed that they'd live to complete a bespoke suit. Some of them are even getting too old to be trusted for alterations. It's a real shame.

 

For alterations i go to a guy who has retired from hands-on work, he does the styling/thinking and farms out the manual labour to his underlings. I'm fine with that, it's how the whole of modern tailoring/suit-making has gone.

 

Oh, and thanks for the info on MJ's returns policy, Osiris. I had no idea it was that accomodating! Might still have to pop in on a trip south, the site has no info on leg widths (but has belt loop size?!).

 

I think my-go to tailor (prior to joining this thread), Bob from A&S, falls into this category. I predominately just get shirts taken in and darted but although I've never got a suit from scratch through him, I have bought one of his suits, adjustments included.

Edit: one of his RTW suits.

post #37293 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

I'm curious - a small survey is needed. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V



I suspect when many people on forums - not perhaps so much here on this highly regarded thread - speak of "going to a tailor" they are really talking about going to an alterationist - some more skilled than others - but not someone who can make you a bespoke jacket and trousers.



When people (YOU) here use the word - do they (YOU) mean alterationist?



When I say tailor I mean a tailor - who could make a suit from scratch.



I suspect thats not what most people mean - after all theres probably only less than 10 left in Melbourne, 3 in Sydney and none anywhere else.



Compete survey here:: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V



I'll post results in a week.

 



I mean an alterationist, (perhaps trained as a seamstress?).

I go to one who is one or several levels, perhaps a skilled artisan, above the mainstream type you can find in malls and drycleaners (who to be fair, are probably fine). A tailor is someone who measures and creates bespoke.
post #37294 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

Why open a store that will be flooded with water 6 months later? It doesn't make much sense.


Are mistresses no longer in fashion?

This black knit, is it from P Johnson?

1) Not for me.

2) Ayup, P Johnson. Much looser weave than Drakes, but just as nice. Jason's (HC) knits look pretty good too.
post #37295 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Halifax View Post

I think my-go to tailor (prior to joining this thread), Bob from A&S, falls into this category. I predominately just get shirts taken in and darted but although I've never got a suit from scratch through him, I have bought one of his suits, adjustments included.


Edit: one of his RTW suits.

Bob Schreder, of Ashley and Schreder, is cheap and has a good line in bad jokes, but he is one of those frustrating alterations people who doesn't like to take up sleeves and trousers too much and who must be convinced to shorten jacket sleeves so that you can see a sliver of cuff! I don't know the picture is still there, but he used to have an old photo pinned up in his premises with a picture of someone wearing a jacket with rather long sleeves, and he would point to it and tell you that it showed where your sleeves should come to.

Bob's business can make you a suit from scratch (or, at least, he used to make suits on the premises) but they're not that fantastic. Not really bad, but not great - but at least they involved a couple of fittings. He also (as Halifax mentioned) sells RTW suits. I don't know if they still are, but they used to be made in Sydney (I think). Then again, perhaps they were made for him by Traveller's Apparel down in Melbourne.

There used to be an Italian gentlemen out at Stones Corner, Tony Cavallo, who could do a handmade suit with lovely, hand-stitched buttonholes, but I think that he retired a couple of years ago. He used to do alterations, as well as making suits.

Also, over at South Brisbane, there is, or was, a tailor by the name of Otto Ponweiser, who made suits. I don't know if he's still in business. I had a chat with him a few years ago and he was very, very definite about his house style - he clearly preferred a more structured cut with stronger shoulders and didn't have much truck with the trend towards softer, unpadded shoulders!

Actually, if his website is anything to go by, it looks as though Otto is still in business:

http://www.symonsqualityclothing.com.au/tailoring/

I think that's it with regard to places in Brisbane that can (or could) actually make suits on the premises.

I remember my father telling me that many years back (in the 1950s and 1960s), there used to be a business called Symon's Suits, run by a gentleman by the name of George Symons. It made both RTW and made-to-order suits and was the place to get a suit in Brisbane. However, times change and now all that is left of it is a sign on the wall of an old building in Elizabeth St in Brisbane, next to the back of the Myer Centre.
post #37296 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


Bob Schreder, of Ashley and Schreder, is cheap and has a good line in bad jokes, but he is one of those frustrating alterations people who doesn't like to take up sleeves and trousers too much and who must be convinced to shorten jacket sleeves so that you can see a sliver of cuff! I don't know the picture is still there, but he used to have an old photo pinned up in his premises with a picture of someone wearing a jacket with rather long sleeves, and he would point to it and tell you that it showed where your sleeves should come to.

Bob's business can make you a suit from scratch (or, at least, he used to make suits on the premises) but they're not that fantastic. Not really bad, but not great - but at least they involved a couple of fittings. He also (as Halifax mentioned) sells RTW suits. I don't know if they still are, but they used to be made in Sydney (I think). Then again, perhaps they were made for him by Traveller's Apparel down in Melbourne.

 

Hi JM - First and foremost, I'm relatively new to this so keep that in mind. Second, I'm not endorsing Bob, just saying something becuase it seemed pertinent - he does offer custom suiting (that I've never tried) and he's almost retired. The price was equivalent to the Cloackroom and he showed me some fittings in progress (which the Cloakroom obviously can't) but I went for the RTW because that's all I needed at the time.

Regarding the sleeves and trouser hemming, I got the opposite treatment from him. He kept going on about how jacket sleeves are too long etc. I'm sure you'll be able to give me a better appraisal in the near future.

Just to clarify, I believe Bob's RTW are Rundle's from Newcastle.
 

post #37297 of 57158
Ashley and Schreder is where Bob Katter goes biggrin.gif

Today's purchases -

Target chinos - mid-low rise, regular fit. $40. I'll let you all know how they go.

Modena A4 compendium - kinda meh on this. Anyone know where I can get a nice compendium in chestnut?
post #37298 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Oh and small correction to your reading comprehension skills - I said the second last time I met you - different suit. (and you did promise you wouldn't tell anyone about the shoes)

Oh, my apologies...maybe I was too eager to find an excuse to mention your dub monx.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ernesto View Post

Brogued as well.

I know, not what I expected to see Mr fxh in. Nice shoes, just unexpected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


Was one strap artfully undone as an example of "sprezz", too??

Of course and no socks either...
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

What a bunch of untrustworthy snitches and dobbers.

What did you expect?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennier View Post

I think that was my exact outfit at the Kimber launch :-) So, obviously, I agree. With the right pieces I believe it works, to me it's about the level of formality being consistent more than anything else.

Well you looked a sharp and suitable as ever Mr L, so thank you for proving my theory. Agree with you about level of consistency.
post #37299 of 57158



For those who want to gamble with their health and their vote this weekend...

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #37300 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Holy shit, 28 degrees in Sydney today.

LINENFORSUMMER, AMIRITE?!

You always are. If I am honest I am more a linen cotton blend fan but my Tumblr name is already too long.

Also TBM did any of the Gant by Michael Bastian stuff catch your eye?

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ernesto View Post

I sense there will be many linenistas this summer.

A good thing.

Will there be tweeders next winter too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by herringbonePete View Post

I also think a grenadine tie with jeans and a sports jacket is fine. Confidence is the key.

Thanks for your thoughts. That last point is crucial.
post #37301 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post
 

 

There's a handful of proper tailors in Brissie, but the majority of them are so old that you wouldn't be guaranteed that they'd live to complete a bespoke suit. Some of them are even getting too old to be trusted for alterations. It's a real shame.

 

Any of you Brissy guys used Frank down in New Farm?  He used to be a tailor and have a business etc, now retired and just does alterations to keep busy.  I've had a few things altered by him and reasonably happy with the quality vs the price, although he's a bit old school in that I seem to have to debate the waist suppression and length to take up the pants but ill take some debate over a tailor who gives no feedback and just does (although that is more inline with what the alterations (non tailor) people do I guess).

post #37302 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

No idea why tailors want such long sleeves! My new tailor "informed" me that the suit should end on the hand, but he didn't fight me on it when i requested otherwise. I would rather have too much cuff showing than none at all (lesser of evils).

As for linen suits, even through this Brisbane "winter" i've been rocking my beige cotton/linen blend with great regularity. Nothing makes me feel better than wading through a sea of dreary black suits in it. It's unstructured, quarter lined, and the flapped pockets are still stitched shut (stops them sagging). I picked it up from Sportscraft of all places, but it's cut well and fits like a glove, it even has a respectably low buttoning point! Still going strong after two years, and the wrinkles can be knocked out with a gentle pressing.

Pure linen accumulates creases waaaay faster than a blend.

I kinda want to get another suit made up of the same material, but not sure which colour to go with. I already have a "workaday" wool suit which treads the line between airforce blue and proper navy. Maybe in tabacco or a mid grey. Hmmm....

Quite simply, perhaps they don't want you coming back when after creasing and wear, they end up too short.
There is no doubt that current fashion trends are shorter sleeves.

My older jackets sleeves are not too long at all, but I prefer them shorter now.

My linen jacket is a blend, not a bad idea at all.
post #37303 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

I'm curious - a small survey is needed. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

I suspect when many people on forums - not perhaps so much here on this highly regarded thread - speak of "going to a tailor" they are really talking about going to an alterationist - some more skilled than others - but not someone who can make you a bespoke jacket and trousers.

When people (YOU) here use the word - do they (YOU) mean alterationist?

When I say tailor I mean a tailor - who could make a suit from scratch.

I suspect thats not what most people mean - after all theres probably only less than 10 left in Melbourne, 3 in Sydney and none anywhere else.

Compete survey here:: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

I'll post results in a week.

If you're bespeaking clothes there is less need for alterations.
post #37304 of 57158

Compendiums? anyone? guys? :(

post #37305 of 57158
Quote:
Originally Posted by iSurg View Post

Hey, collective hivemind. Need some good advice. My wife has just secured her training position for the next 4 years, and as agreed between us, we can now book a last minute 3 week trip away. We are slow travellers and will be spending a week each in Florence, Rome, and Paris. Suggestions for places you've been and enjoyed would be greatly appreciated either in the thread or PM. Granted, I have a list of shops already on my google maps and will post this next chance I get. Would like to add to the list. Going to buy a few nice things when there.

Nath

 

Just left Florence and Rome. I found the majority of food around the center of Florence to be typical tourist trap shit, it was hard to find decent restaurants while on the go walking around etc. Would be wise to get a few written down/location before you head out for the day. Lot's of local restaurants/shops/supermarkets (including the central food market) close on weekends too, some only Sunday's, others all weekend. 

 

There is 'The Mall' located 40min drive out from Florence - designer outlet with brands such as Gucci/Lanvin/Salvatore/Prada etc.... Not really a whole great deal out there to buy, Salvatore had some nice Tramezza wholecut's that we're half the price of the same shoe they had in their flagship store in town. E. Zegna had a small selection of suits too, but it just comes down to luck on the day and your sizing to determine whether you get something or not. You can catch a bus from Florence out to The Mall for 8 Euro pp.

 

Rome, of course is spectacular. Very touristy around the archaeological sights but the city is quite large and easy to escape and relax. Check out Trastavere (suburb - 15min walk from centre) at night before the sun sets, beautiful little cobblestone streets with heaps of restaurants (some good/some bad) to choose from. Lot's of little pop-up style restaurants/bars along the Tiber river too, nice to walk along at night.

 

Up near the Villa Borghese gardens is the bespoke shoemaker Bocache & Salvucci store (http://forthediscerningfew.com/tag/bocache-salvucci/) definitely worth going to have a look.

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