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post #36571 of 51860

I thought that might be the case (Sampeng is cheaper with a better range). I've read about several shops worth their salt: Giovanni (shop #161) and Venezia (#131-133) as well as China World, a shopping center in Phaurat. I remember that there were many when my finacee went dress fabric shopping. Is it unrealistic to expect the same range and quality of cloth as say mytailor.com?

Also, not every tailor will accept fabric brought to them (such as Tanika) - who did you use and why?
 

post #36572 of 51860

So let me get this right: the primary difference between the two shoe styles is the stitching along the throat line (closed) or lack there of (open)?

I do have a Black cap toe (derby though) and a rich brown brogue it's just they are cheap Asian knock-offs and I feel dirty wearing them. What about the Apron toe or is such a choice making a cardinal sin of style?

post #36573 of 51860
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli2012 View Post

Halifax,

Welcome to the bastard world of online ordering.

Essentially you want
- a black cap toed oxford
- a dark brown brogue

The black oxford will get you through your most formal occasions (church, weddings, funerals, job interviews etc) whilst the brown brogue is still formal enough for work but can be worn on dates or to weekend lunches.

In terms of work, ideally you'll be rotating them daily so that the leather has an opportunity to dry out.

Loakes 1880s are a fantastic place to start, there are a handful of places in the city you can try them on but you'll end up ordering them online due to the Australia tax. C&Js are a nicer shoe and more expensive, but have the advantage of a few bricks and mortar stores in sydney and Melbourne. Anything beyond these and you're playing a game of diminishing returns.

In terms of looking after them, you want:
- a leather conditioner - saphir renovateur
- a shoe cream the same colour as the shoe - saphir creme
- a pair of shoe trees
For all of these I'd recommend ordering from double monk in Melbourne who have fantastic prices.

Once you have these, I'd recommend looking at a boot - either an chelsea from RMWs or a pair of chukkas, which can take you from the pub to any formal occasion.

At this point I'd warn you to stop. Anything beyond this and you've well and truly gone beyond the point of diminishing returns and into the world of the SFer which involves long hours of depression flicking through eBay, buying shoes online and bitching about lasts and 'shoe hierarchy'.

Pretty spot on mate.

Suede Chukka (loake 1880 line) are the way to go if your after a boot for work casual and weekend wear.
post #36574 of 51860
Some good comments about shoes and shoe purchasing.

Halifax - I haven't been into DJs to look at shoes for a long time, so I'm not sure if the Brisbane city DJs (or the Chermside version) have the 1880 line from Loake. I would think that it is still worth having a look, though, as you should be able to try one some comparable shoes from a lower line.

With regard to C&Js, Herringbone have a few styles, although not as many as they used to. Still worth having a look, though, and talk to either Jocelyn (the manager) or James (youngish man with glasses and reddish-brown hair, very skinny, sometimes has a beard) to see if they're happy to order something in for you to try on.

You can also go to the Cloakroom to try on Carmina shoes, but as with everything else in Australia, their prices are expensive - close to twice what you will pay if you order from Carmina.

At Mitchell Ogilvie in the city, you can try on Church's and an Italian brand, Fratelli Rossetti. The last time I looked, they were asking an absolutely ludicrous amount for Church's - $1000 for corrected grain shoes. You can also try on Zegna shoes at the new-ish Zegna boutique.

When trying on shoes, have a think about a few things:
- How does the shoe feel for length?
- How does it feel for width?
- How does it feel for height above the toe?
- How does it feel for height over your instep (the part of your feet below the laces)?

The latter can be very difficult to get an idea about online, as whilst most places selling shoes online will happily talk to you about length and width, they can't really talk to you about height over the instep. I have quite a high instep, so this is a bit of an interest of mine, as it means that certain shoes simply don't fit me as I end up with a ridiculously large amount of space between the laces.

As an example, I've found that the "5" last from Allen-Edmonds, which they use for their Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue models, is a very flat last and it doesn't suit my foot at all. However, Loake's Capital last, the 337 last from C&J, and most Italian shoes fit my feet well.

Of course, if you don't have a high instep, then you're lucky and you won't have to worry about that issue at all!

If you'd like to catch up for a coffee when you happen to be in town sometime to chat about shoes, I'm happy to do so.
post #36575 of 51860
Quote:

The latter can be very difficult to get an idea about online, as whilst most places selling shoes online will happily talk to you about length and width, they can't really talk to you about height over the instep. I have quite a high instep, so this is a bit of an interest of mine, as it means that certain shoes simply don't fit me as I end up with a ridiculously large amount of space between the laces.

As an example, I've found that the "5" last from Allen-Edmonds, which they use for their Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue models, is a very flat last and it doesn't suit my foot at all. However, Loake's Capital last, the 337 last from C&J, and most Italian shoes fit my feet well.

Of course, if you don't have a high instep, then you're lucky and you won't have to worry about that issue at all!
 

That's some great info JM, especially for me regarding the high instep.

My instep is quite high (how relatively high im not sure), and my new Herring's/ Alfred Sargents (1966 last) have been the best for me so far (havent tried C&J 337 or Italian shoes). So much so that Ill be looking directly at AS again for future shoes. To me it appears largely due to the thin waist soles and thus nearby leather/ arch support...

post #36576 of 51860
BTW, thanks for putting me onto Filson JM. My bag is fantastic - with a bit of luck ill have it for years.
post #36577 of 51860
Yes, great information on the shoe purchases, I would think one needs 2 pairs of black shoes to rotate.

Burnso, if AS fits you well, then you are good for most English shoes. biggrin.gif
post #36578 of 51860

First of all - Thanks guys for all the informative posts.

 

I'm currently digesting the information and will post again before acting on anything; it seems online is the way to go as I'm not prepared to shell out more than 400 per pair to start with. Perhaps once I've been on here long enough, I might venture into the dark arts of real shoe appreciation.

 

JM - I believe my instep is quite low. I wouldn't mind someone with some experience giving me some pointers, but I definitely don't want to waste your time.

 

As a side, how do you guys go about matching your belts with the shoes you buy online? I mean, you can't buy both on-line because the chance of getting a match is slim.

post #36579 of 51860
Sounds like Loakes are for you smile.gif

It doesn't have to be exact. Herring shoes has a decent range, as does country road trenery.
post #36580 of 51860
There is no need to match the exact colour or shades for belts and shoes.
post #36581 of 51860
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli2012 View Post

Sounds like Loakes are for you smile.gif

It doesn't have to be exact. Herring shoes has a decent range, as does country road trenery.

Yes, he should really take advantage of the 20% off and free shipping at Herring.
post #36582 of 51860
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post


Yes, he should really take advantage of the 20% off and free shipping at Herring.

 

I'm looking now...

 

 

Another tangent: can anyone give me a compelling reason to not consider the following R&B suit?

http://www.rhodesbeckett.com.au/products.php?s=1-11-100-230719

 

I'm 95% sure the fabric is VBC with a weight of 9.0 oz/yd^2 (300 g/m^2).


Apologies for asking so many questions, but I feel that my knowledge of most things fashion is limited (for now at least).

post #36583 of 51860
That purple check would make you look like a pre-Madonna, a powder-puff, and a tartish fop.

If you're looking at your first suit I would go a plain navy or dark to mid grey.

I know you live out Bjelke-Petersen's way but it might be worth ordering from MJ Bale. You can always send it back should it not fit.
post #36584 of 51860
If anyone feels like paying full price for Sunspel stuff they have free shipping at the moment which appears to work to all destinations. Code 'august13' valid until Monday 26th.
post #36585 of 51860
Halifax, on the side note, why do you prefer Halifax over Lancaster?
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