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Australian Members - Page 2066

post #30976 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by md2010 View Post

Thanks for everyone’s input on jacket fit.
Now I have been planning to buy my first DB jacket for over a year now. Still unsure if I can pull it off successfully !
What do you think about a light tan linen db jacket ?
(Sorry unable to upload picture link at the moment.)


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FmA7VaASAxU/UAICLVQL80I/AAAAAAAAEeg/OnssxVlotis/s1600/Lino-Ieluzzi-A.D-Al-Bazar-Via-A-Scarpa-Milano-www.albazarmilano.it-Gianpaolo-Alliata.jpg

I'd err to a darker coat, like a navy or air force blue linen especially if it's your first and if you aren't sure about it.

It's funny the DB/coat tightness debate has come up because I actually have a new dark grey DB suit on the way from Aquascutum, being British it could be a good comparison to the Italian silhouette that we have been talking about, with a slightly stronger shoulder, longer skirt in the coat and heavier canvass.

I must admit, to some embrassment that I don't know of this Imran fellow, though I have seen his tumblr pop up now and then. Is he a member?

To me, Vox's steed (british) coats are what I consider to be a perfect fit of a coat. Extremely clean lines, a bit of drape and shoulders that have a bit of structure but aren't really padded. And the trousers of course are excellent again with very clean lines down the whole trouser. His NSM (italian) stuff to me has never fitted as well and probably not co-incidentally has less structure to it. Whether that's your thing or not, or if you prefer lighter coats is personal preference but standing side by side structured looks better to me.



If I was to buy am un-structered, un-lined un-everything suit or coat which I'm not against, I'd be using it as a casual piece worn with linen shirts or even polo's in the italian kind of way they do and i'd let it flap about a bit and wrinkle up. Wouldn't use it for a work suit based on that.
post #30977 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petepan View Post

Where is the pocket square Jason??
In a rush today, blame my daughter!
post #30978 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

If I was to buy am un-structered, un-lined un-everything suit or coat which I'm not against, I'd be using it as a casual piece worn with linen shirts or even polo's in the italian kind of way they do and i'd let it flap about a bit and wrinkle up. Wouldn't use it for a work suit based on that.

 

Yeah two different looks/styles. All depends again on context and in this scenario what one does for work. I personally prefer the unstructured look and id wear it for work or casually but thats me. Vox's clothes albeit expensive/nice are generally not my cup of tea nor should i expect them to be as I am not him.

 

With reference back to Christian Bale's costumes in Batman (lol) - I actually quite like how they started off with alot of structure, padded shoulders etc to portray a strong ego character and then by the final the contrast he has with soft, unstructured suiting and is a good illustration on the two styles.

post #30979 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

In a rush today, blame my daughter!

Jason, I remember seeing an interview with Gay Talese where his coats all had pocket squares already in them as he took them out of the wardrobe.

To save yourself time (but not money) you could store all yours with a white linen square.

Be a menswear scout, be prepared.
post #30980 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

I'd err to a darker coat, like a navy or air force blue linen especially if it's your first and if you aren't sure about it.



.
Wow what a great fit. This has to be a bespoke suit. Waist suppression is perfect, nice open quarters and clean - blends in with the whole jacket. Love the pants very close to zero break. I doubt even a mtm jacket can be done to this perfection.
I thought of a navy DB. I will look around a bit more before pulling trigger . Would love to see your db suit fit.
post #30981 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by md2010 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

I'd err to a darker coat, like a navy or air force blue linen especially if it's your first and if you aren't sure about it.
Wow what a great fit. This has to be a bespoke suit. Waist suppression is perfect, nice open quarters and clean - blends in with the whole jacket. Love the pants very close to zero break. I doubt even a mtm jacket can be done to this perfection.
I thought of a navy DB. I will look around a bit more before pulling trigger . Would love to see your db suit fit.

I believe most of Vox's stuff is these days, but fits like this OTR aren't impossible if you're not super oddly sized. I believe jefferyd (Who is a spectacular tailor is his own right.) has a fair few items of varying price which fit similarly. I'll see if I can find his blog in my history for you to have a look at.

post #30982 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by joiji View Post

I believe most of Vox's stuff is these days, but fits like this OTR aren't impossible if you're not super oddly sized. I believe jefferyd (Who is a spectacular tailor is his own right.) has a fair few items of varying price which fit similarly. I'll see if I can find his blog in my history for you to have a look at.

Jeffery D's blog is:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.au/
post #30983 of 48617
So I popped into Arthur Korderas in South Yarra today to get my Canali dinner jacket altered. I've lost a lot of weight over the past few years due to riding my bike more. He said that earlier that week he had a few suits dropped off from the Melbourne Zegna shop for tailoring. Two of the suits retailed for $11,000, one for $20,000.

WTF?!?

I asked if they were cashmere/mohair/vicuna or something similar, he replied they were 100% wool. Apparently it was Zegna's latest 'super dooper' fabric, although Arthur reckoned the Dormeuil 'Ambassador' Super 180's is better. I had a flick through the sample book when I was there, check out 180225. It looks like plain Navy but once you start warping it, it creates its own optical illusions. Would be great for a fun suit.

Any idea which Zegna suits/fabrics he's referring to?
post #30984 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypee View Post

To those with CJ gloves, which models do/did you have? (sorry to hear about losing them)

Re Razors - havent shaved in 4 months and the mrs hates it. Fit picks to come

Mine are Paris with cashmere lining.
post #30985 of 48617
Excellent., have just ordered bespoke is Paris/Cashmere/Black and Paris/Cashmere/Old Gold
post #30986 of 48617
My advice to those ordering CJ gloves:

1. Even unlined is pretty warm... not sure you'd need anything more in Australia unless you get cold hands. Unlined is plenty comfortable and gives you more dexterity too. I certainly wouldn't get anything more than a thin lining, you'll overheat.

2. Getting external seam stitching around the fingers, while looking "bespoke" and being more traditional, reduced dexterity since you have these big seams everywhere.

YMMV.
post #30987 of 48617
I have been reading about Peccary gloves and notice CJ has them there are also a couple of Italian makers one who supplies to DJ's I believe. From what i have read they recommend that you get them unlined.

Any thoughts on them in terms of quality over a more traditional kid leather and as I am in Canberra would they be suitable for here unlined. The two pairs of gloves I own are both lined, one is for casual weekend ware the other for work.
post #30988 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey Firmin View Post

I have been reading about Peccary gloves and notice CJ has them there are also a couple of Italian makers one who supplies to DJ's I believe. From what i have read they recommend that you get them unlined.

Any thoughts on them in terms of quality over a more traditional kid leather and as I am in Canberra would they be suitable for here unlined. The two pairs of gloves I own are both lined, one is for casual weekend ware the other for work.

IIRC, CJ does not use Peccary but rather Carpincho. I don't know if that makes a difference to you, or any practical difference.

http://www.chesterjefferies.co.uk/scripts/leather-information.asp
post #30989 of 48617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Jeffery D's blog is:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.au/

Yeah Jeffrey cuts some great coats, very clean all over also. If you are learning and want an indication of how a double breasted suit should be cut and more importantly fit, you could do worse than use this as inspiration - Personal taste aside, there is little that can be found to fault here, it's essentially perfect.

post #30990 of 48617
Good news for those with a mortgage! NAB have been the first bank to pass on the full 0.25%.. I'm hoping Westpac do also
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