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Australian Members - Page 2011

post #30151 of 55199
Hmm OK thanks makes sense. That's what I had figured, but I couldn't understand why there'd be only one button.

It must be some serious, serious (English?) weather that would require the sleeves to be cinched!
post #30152 of 55199

Guys I know I'm a massive pest, but I've got some questions regarding shoe care and am having trouble finding answers. 

1) What are the 'must reads' on polishing/conditioning shoes? What stuff do I need and where am I best to order it?

2) I'm unhappy with the shade of my shoe. Originally I wanted a dark brown, but went a chestnut because that was all they had. Is there any way for me to darken my shoes a shade or two?

post #30153 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

Calling SF fashion buffs:

Does anyone (fxh?) know what you call these sleeve things (a "sleeve epaulet", if you will) on a coat/rain mac? What is their history and do they have a function? I can't seem to find anything on google.



If there was two buttons on the sleeve instead of one, I could see it serving some purpose ie you could cinch the sleeves in, but with one is it simply a fashionable appendage to the coat?

A sleeve strap, perhaps?

I agree that nowadays it seems to serve no practical purpose as, if there is only one button, it's not possible to use the strap to actually adjust the sleeve opening.
post #30154 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Geoffery Firmin - thanks for the reply - I'll get back and continue the discourse.
fxh -please do I read some excerpts from the first book you mentioned found it interesting food for thought.
post #30155 of 55199
Anyone with leads on getting decent sleeveless cardigans other than drakes? Johnston's doesn't have any. I'm finding it hard to locate a vendor with a good selection...
post #30156 of 55199
My inspector gadget trenchcoat has adjustable sleeve cuff straps with a buckle and 4 holes. Its originally practical use as you may have guessed to adjust to keep out weather, rain, cold wind, etc. Its a bit of overkill unless you are marching a few kilometres across the wastelands of coastal St kilda looking to score.

Most other jackets and coats its been evolved/devolved down to a decoration or frippery or a representation /reference to what used to be.
Many other menswear details are the same, buttonhole in lapel, buttons on suit jacket cuff, button down collar??
post #30157 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Many other menswear details are the same, buttonhole in lapel, buttons on suit jacket cuff, button down collar??

Brogues, too. I've always enjoyed the story of their roots.
post #30158 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post

Hmm OK thanks makes sense. That's what I had figured, but I couldn't understand why there'd be only one button.

It must be some serious, serious (English?) weather that would require the sleeves to be cinched!

As fxh noted, the original purpose stems from military applications. not civilian. I suspect when crawling around in knee deep mud in trenches they were appreciated. Nowadays they're purely decorative in any conditions that sane human beings would venture out into voluntarily.
post #30159 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

There is a mistaken idea that unless a shoe is Goodyear or Hand stitched it can't be any good. Not necessarily so.
Not my intention to imply this, just that his shoes don't look Blake stitched so I assume he uses one of the other methods.
post #30160 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by lachyzee View Post


Perhaps they are a hangover from military great coats. I remember being told that buttons on the cuffs of army coats were a Napoleonic invention, designed to stop the enlisted men from wiping their runny noses on their sleeves. Probably tommy rot...
post #30161 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post


I agree. There are many beautiful looking Italian-made shoes that do not boast Goodyear welted construction and I feel are overlooked as being sub-par. People then go on to choose a pair of Goodyear welted shoes with shoddy looking uppers instead of a much nicer looking pair without that perceived "benefit"..

 

indeed. one my favorite tan loafers, Mariano Campanile, are italian made and blake stitched. the finish is very clean and not obnoxious.

 

 

(excuse the falke socks)

post #30162 of 55199
How much are the AM shoes that are on sale?
post #30163 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli2012 View Post

Guys I know I'm a massive pest, but I've got some questions regarding shoe care and am having trouble finding answers. 


1) What are the 'must reads' on polishing/conditioning shoes? What stuff do I need and where am I best to order it?


2) I'm unhappy with the shade of my shoe. Originally I wanted a dark brown, but went a chestnut because that was all they had. Is there any way for me to darken my shoes a shade or two?

Oli

Why you chose to post this when Nice Guy Gerry is away I do not know...

Gerry and Christian (of Christian Kimber Footwear) have the best polishing skills I have seen. So much so that I joke that only wear suede shoes around them as I am embarrassed by how unpolished my leather ones look. Thebrownman also gets great results so he might be worth asking.

Maybe Gerry will do a little write up of his technique. Christian presented a night about it (which I attended) as did Double Monk (where Gerry gave a demonstration, unfortunately I could not make it).

Basically once you know the main technique, like most things, it is time and effort. And practice. I took a few of my pairs out and it has taken a week of on/off polishing to get them looking good (10 mins here, 20 mins there).

The most basic breakdown is clean, condition then add polish, wait at bit, buff and repeat as much as you can be bothered. You can experiment with polish with different colours and levels of layers. I tend to do a layer or two of black on brown and sometimes add some burgundy too.

Lighter shoes can be darken and will get a nice patina over time, polishing and use. Once you start polishing good quality leather you can see and feel the difference in the shine produced. Try to darken you shoes slowly with light layers of a black or dark brown polish as well as some lighter brown. Your best results will happen around the toe and heel (where there is little bending when walking).

I use Saphir products, like a lot of others here (in fact people might be interested in a group buy though I believe Double Monk does a good price). They get a lot of hype, but I really do find I get great results with them (not like GN, TBM or Christian but I try). Not sure if that is the quality of the product, the fact I like using it or that my wife (and I) likes the smell (mink oil). Probably a combination of all three.

Not really sure how much that helps you. In short, just start polishing. As long as you use light layers something is much better than nothing and you will learn as you go. Do a search on Put This On as they will have a few helpful articles and maybe search EthanDesu Tumblr archive for some inspiration and tips.

Here is an article Christian penned a while back - http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/comment/articles/2010-12/17/gq-comment-shoe-shining-masterclass-
post #30164 of 55199

Cheers Pink. I was wondering the same thing.

post #30165 of 55199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

Cheers Pink. I was wondering the same thing.
First name terms..I prefer Mr Socks. I jest, hope it is of some help...would be interested to hear how you (and Oli) get on and if you pick up any tricks that work in getting a good shine.

Hopefully others will chip in too.
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