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Australian Members - Page 1910

post #28636 of 58025

Thanks for the heads up about Isaia. Where is Isaia sold anyway? Is it only at American Tailors? Any Sydney connection?

 

Vince Maloney & Co.  Coming soon if not already there I believe.

post #28637 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by FredAstaire1899 View Post

Technically, if a computer could draft a pattern or change an existing one from a certain number of measurements (and can factor into account shoulder drops etc.) it could better optimise the pattern than a tailor could do by hand due to the numerical optimisation algorithms it can employ.

I agree with Zegna, I've seen horrible results and excellent results.  Zegna Su Misura used to be in multi-brand stores, some of which had bespoke tailors to measure - the results I saw in those instances had a fit that was very, very close to true bespoke, with the advantage that they had the Zegna silhouette.

Don't get me started on Zegna. Wasted too much money on bad Su Misura before I knew what I was doing. Love their Milano cut, but I'm loathe to give them another shot.

Hope you weren't a victim as well.
post #28638 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

In a month's time, we can both collect our brown grenadines. icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif
With every new purchase the idea of a shared tie/accersory/shoe coop makes more and more sense. We could both be far richer men.

In other news a pair of RRL selvedge jeans I bought on eBay a month ago finally arrived. Good price so took the risk with sizing and luckily they are pretty spot on. Woohoo!
post #28639 of 58025
Dropped into a Herringbone store today, as well as the MJBale sale and I have to say I was rather surprised. MJB had some ok stuff on sale but the new season stock that was in was a little bit trans-seasonal and not all that inspiring. The new raincoat looked like it would have been more at home in the Oxford outlet...

In contrast the HB trenchcoat was really well tailored I thought, with better attention to detail and fabric than the MJ one ($700 though). They also had about 4 different navy blazer styles for anyone looking for one. A nice brown light herringbone tweed jacket also caught my eye.

Guess it just goes to show you can't always judge a book by it's cover, or a shop's stock by it's website.
post #28640 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

CD: we should go op/vintage shopping together.

Depends - are you my size? ;-)
post #28641 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Also again, great photos as always Gerry, looks like it would have been a good night. I will have to stop by DM and pick up some more saphir when I'm down for the trunk show.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Gerry, your photos from Double Monk are lovely.

Thanks very much, guys. So far, we have had two amazing events. I think the trunk show will be pretty special as well.
post #28642 of 58025

A cartoon of a larrikin and a donah dancing, from The Bulletin, 1894. Here the larrikin wears a tight suit jacket, a short round bowler, flared trousers, and pointed shoes. The larrikin’s suit was based on a popular men’s suit but with the proportions altered to highlight his difference. The donah’s dress was similar to contemporary women’s fashions but with gaudier colors, shorter skirts, and plenty of accessories like feather boas and big hats.
Drawing by Tom Durkin
post #28643 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicholas D C View Post

[insert name] retailer can feel free to charge extortionate prices for the exact same item I can get overseas shipped to my door for half the price, but they'll be going out of business shortly. It's a global marketplace these days - Australian retailers are finding that out the hard way.



On another topic, anyone else use "Detail for Men" as their hair salon? I've been there a couple times, pretty nifty place.
Yeah sure that's sort of what I was implying I.e if you don't like and get the same thing online cheaper, then go for it. But there's are so many "it depends" scenarios here.

IMO it's only a small percentage of retailers that are truly ripping us off. Take the Henry Bucks Edward Green pricing of $1800ish compared to say leather sole at about $1100. That's a clear rip off.

But take the difference between a pair of Crockett & Jones at double monk, compared to say pediwear and that costs saving is gone if you have to only send one pair back that the sizing isn't right on.

As I said, it all depends. A big part of it is the strength of our dollar, and why wouldn't you take advantage of that. But that's now and it won't be like that forever so we only need the US dollar to swing back to about .75 cents (about where it should be) and your online shopping just got 25% more expensive. Retailers shouldn't cut margins because of the strong dollar and if they did it would just take the value out of everything.

I'll be clear I buy a lot of stuff from OS online, I've got some flannels from HY and a big order of winter/fishing gear on the way from STP, but I do those purchases because I literally can't buy that stuff here. If I've got the choice of local and online for the same thing, I'll pay a slight premium for local anytime for the comfort of quicker/instant delivery, returns, warranties etc and just supporting local business.
post #28644 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

And this is where it gets very gray and murky.

Sounds suspiciously like high quality MTM, whereas Mahon's description of MTM sounds more like MTO (made to order) which is what most so-called MTM operations do. There's so much latitude in the use of such terminology these days, it's hard to tell what one means till they elaborate further.

Does this mean though, that the more flexible an MTM system is, the closer it's similarity to Bespoke Pattern Manipulation?

I'd wager that if your build doesn't deviate too far from the mythical average man, either high-quality MTM or Mahon's described method (I'm aware this is not his preference) would suffice.

Lastly, just a caution wrt big brand MTM: how well your suit fits is heavily influenced by the person fitting you. Outfits like Zegna (personal experience) are dangerously inconsistent on this area, as fitting skill varies from store to store.

Thanks for the heads up about Isaia. Where is Isaia sold anyway? Is it only at American Tailors? Any Sydney connection?

Fwiw we are keeping a high degree of customisation for suitshop mtm. Much more than any diy online "mtm" operation
post #28645 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post


Depends - are you my size? ;-)

 

No.

post #28646 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

As I said, it all depends. A big part of it is the strength of our dollar, and why wouldn't you take advantage of that. But that's now and it won't be like that forever so we only need the US dollar to swing back to about .75 cents (about where it should be) and your online shopping just got 25% more expensive. Retailers shouldn't cut margins because of the strong dollar and if they did it would just take the value out of everything.

 

I don't really take issue with anything in your post aside from your statement about 75 cents being where the dollar 'should be'.

 

That exchange rate of AUD/USD = 0.75 might be good for Australian retailers because it'd force consumers back to them, but it has nothing to do with what actually sets the forex rates (supply and demand mainly).

 

Yes the AUD is considered slightly overvalued, but it's not by margins of 25%+ - more like 5c according to the RBA as of the beginning of the month. See here for further info (http://au.finance.yahoo.com/news/australian-dollar-overvalued--rba-003014632.html)

post #28647 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by burnso View Post

 

Michael, may I ask how long your mocc socks took to arrive?

It has been a week since order, hoping they come this week.

Burnso!

 

About those Mocc socks, it took about 2-3 weeks from the U.S.

 

However, they are a little iffy. The back, after a couple of hours, tends to slide down to the bottom of the heel, creating friction at the back of the foot. Also, they just fit me, and I am a UK7. They must have amazing elastine power to fit anything bigger than that!

 

They don't pill, which is good. But, how do you solve the problem where the sock slides down the back!?

post #28648 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicholas D C View Post

I don't really take issue with anything in your post aside from your statement about 75 cents being where the dollar 'should be'.

That exchange rate of AUD/USD = 0.75 might be good for Australian retailers because it'd force consumers back to them, but it has nothing to do with what actually sets the forex rates (supply and demand mainly).

Yes the AUD is considered slightly overvalued, but it's not by margins of 25%+ - more like 5c according to the RBA as of the beginning of the month. See here for further info (http://au.finance.yahoo.com/news/australian-dollar-overvalued--rba-003014632.html)

The only issue I have is that at 75cents retailers buy price is also 25% more expensive so it will depend on how soon they pass the cost on to consumers

Look at things like flat panel TV's.. Price deflation was significant with the currency appreciating.. What happens on the way back down?
post #28649 of 58025

In regards to local vs overseas buying, and also the ongoing raw denim conversation, I purchased some Edwin Sen (selvedge and fully Japanese made) jeans from Maple in Sydney yesterday. I had lusted over some 3sixteens for a while, but was too worried about sizing issues. I personally think fit is extra important for jeans, which makes buying online like playing Russian roulette.

 

For Sydneysiders, check out Maple for the raw denim game. Previously I had thought their pricing exorbitant (and it still is on stuff like Nudies), but $180 for the Edwins was relatively competitive with online options and quite a bit cheaper than 3sixteens. I'd guess 3sixteens probably have some nicer detailing, maybe slightly nicer denim and of course that great leather patch, but for $40 or so cheaper, with no online risk, give the Edwins a shot. They also have some Neuw selvedge stuff, but this didn't feel like raw denim to me and my only pair of Neuw jeans (purchased pre raw-denim obsession) had awful quality stitching. Nudies at $270 are a joke.

post #28650 of 58025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

I'll be clear I buy a lot of stuff from OS online, I've got some flannels from HY and a big order of winter/fishing gear on the way from STP, but I do those purchases because I literally can't buy that stuff here. If I've got the choice of local and online for the same thing, I'll pay a slight premium for local anytime for the comfort of quicker/instant delivery, returns, warranties etc and just supporting local business.

This is the crux of the whole buying online phenomena I buy pants online because (the logic of fashion escapes me) it is nigh on impossible to buy pleated pants, flat front dont flatter my physique, here in oz. Its an alternative to bricks and mortar shopping. An option not a be all end all.

Take books for example, if i buy locally I pay the same price for a PB as what I do for a HB but if i buy online i don't have to wait three months for a local release. If publishing regulations business models were different then i would probably go into a book store, but alas no.

There are a couple of stores whom I regullary support and buy product from, i have been doing it for over 20 years, I know I could buy it cheaper online depending on the dollar but I enjoy going in there having a chat, hearing music I would not otherwise be exposed too, info about tours and I cant get that same experience by pointing and clicking. Its that human interaction that i think is hardwired into us that will never be replaced by an online experience. More so its instant gratification as opposed to the diference of online shopping. The wait,the wait. (fuck Australia Post)
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