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Australian Members - Page 1909

post #28621 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

Highly modifying an existing block = MTM.

Only drafting a pattern for you = Bespoke.

HBone: don't like the pattern.

Cutler: You sure 2K is what they charge? I believe Cutler is bespoke, not MTM, and one of those that charges 6K and above.

Zegna is indeed about 3K... for a basic suit.



I was surprised to see recently that John Cutler does have a much cheaper option, which I assume is MTM.

It's called something like "London Style by Cutler" and prices start at around $1750, if I remember the article correctly.
post #28622 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

Just got back from PJ. Commissioned a suit of charcoal twill Aniston fabric. 3 roll 2, flap pockets, a conservative siuit as we head into the cooler weather.

Matt tried to sell me on a birdseye fabric that a nice chap from here ordered, but I don't want to end up at the pub wearing the same suit as the next guy. :-)

Had a v. frustrating morning at the op shops, having to leave behind a stack of mostly Zegna pieces beause they didn't fit. These included a pure cashmere blue blazer, a Su Misura suit and what looked like a brand-new pair of wool slacks by Incotex. The day was saved when I found a Cantarelli blazer that fits perfectly. Tom told me it's 3 ply wool, so nice score.

what size were the Zegna pieces and blazer?

post #28623 of 58047
Also re discussing retailers profit margins - #thingswedonttalkabout

What im saying is I don't really think its anyones business speculating on what profit margins (insert name) retailer charges. If you think it's too expensive, then dont buy it! Simple smile.gif
post #28624 of 58047
Also again, great photos as always Gerry, looks like it would have been a good night. I will have to stop by DM and pick up some more saphir when I'm down for the trunk show.
post #28625 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Also re discussing retailers profit margins - #thingswedonttalkabout

What im saying is I don't really think its anyones business speculating on what profit margins (insert name) retailer charges. If you think it's too expensive, then dont buy it! Simple smile.gif

 

[insert name] retailer can feel free to charge extortionate prices for the exact same item I can get overseas shipped to my door for half the price, but they'll be going out of business shortly. It's a global marketplace these days - Australian retailers are finding that out the hard way.

 

-----

 

On another topic, anyone else use "Detail for Men" as their hair salon? I've been there a couple times, pretty nifty place.

post #28626 of 58047
Gerry, your photos from Double Monk are lovely.
post #28627 of 58047
Use to hit up detail, before moving over to sterling who are amazing
post #28628 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post


Highly modifying an existing block = MTM.
 

 

Not according to Thomas Mahon. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html

 

All bespoke tailors use some sort of pattern drafting method so there is a common 'algorithm' anyway.

 

Side note: Isaia Su Misura will be available in Sydney soon, probably around a similar price point to Zegna.

post #28629 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

I was surprised to see recently that John Cutler does have a much cheaper option, which I assume is MTM.

It's called something like "London Style by Cutler" and prices start at around $1750, if I remember the article correctly.

Interesting...
post #28630 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

what size were the Zegna pieces and blazer?
The Su Misura suit fitted like about a 40R drop 6, at a guess. I would have taken it, but there was a small stain on the pamts pocket that looked to me like it wouldn't come out. My guess at the casmere blazer size would be 44. I'm somewhere between 40 and 42 right now and I thought it a little large. The pants were huge - size 60. There was also a Zegna silk/cotton top that was just weird. It fitted Eu 50 or 52, but the shoulders were halfway down my biceps and the sleeves below my fingertips.

If you want to hunt them out, the latter two were at St Marks in Smith St Collingwood and the suit and blazer were at Salvos in Clarendon St South Melbourne.
post #28631 of 58047

I agree, it is interesting.  And his cut looks a bit more classic than most MTM going around.  

 

Most of all though, you get all of his experience as a bespoke tailor at your disposal to help choose the right cloth and get an exacting fit.

post #28632 of 58047

CD: we should go op/vintage shopping together.

post #28633 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by FredAstaire1899 View Post

Not according to Thomas Mahon. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html

All bespoke tailors use some sort of pattern drafting method so there is a common 'algorithm' anyway.

Side note: Isaia Su Misura will be available in Sydney soon, probably around a similar price point to Zegna.

And this is where it gets very gray and murky.

Sounds suspiciously like high quality MTM, whereas Mahon's description of MTM sounds more like MTO (made to order) which is what most so-called MTM operations do. There's so much latitude in the use of such terminology these days, it's hard to tell what one means till they elaborate further.

Does this mean though, that the more flexible an MTM system is, the closer it's similarity to Bespoke Pattern Manipulation?

I'd wager that if your build doesn't deviate too far from the mythical average man, either high-quality MTM or Mahon's described method (I'm aware this is not his preference) would suffice.

Lastly, just a caution wrt big brand MTM: how well your suit fits is heavily influenced by the person fitting you. Outfits like Zegna (personal experience) are dangerously inconsistent on this area, as fitting skill varies from store to store.

Thanks for the heads up about Isaia. Where is Isaia sold anyway? Is it only at American Tailors? Any Sydney connection?
post #28634 of 58047
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post


And this is where it gets very gray and murky.

Sound suspiciously like high quality MTM, whereas Mahon's description of MTM sounds more like MTO (made to order) which is what most so-called MTM operations do.

Does this mean though, that the more flexible an MTM system is, the closer it's similarity to Bespoke Pattern Manipulation?

I'd wager that if your build doesn't deviate too far from the mythical average man, either high-quality MTM or Mahon's described method (I'm aware this is not his preference) would suffice.

Lastly, just a caution wrt big brand MTM: how well your suit fits is heavily influenced by the person fitting you. Outfits like Zegna (personal experience) are dangerously inconsistent on this area, as fitting skill varies from store to store.

 

Technically, if a computer could draft a pattern or change an existing one from a certain number of measurements (and can factor into account shoulder drops etc.) it could better optimise the pattern than a tailor could do by hand due to the numerical optimisation algorithms it can employ.

 

I agree with Zegna, I've seen horrible results and excellent results.  Zegna Su Misura used to be in multi-brand stores, some of which had bespoke tailors to measure - the results I saw in those instances had a fit that was very, very close to true bespoke, with the advantage that they had the Zegna silhouette.

post #28635 of 58047
IIRC, Adamo's bespoke prices start from about 2K as well. I believe this is for a 2 piece in VBC. Or you can wait for Gordon Yao to come round again (from HK). I think his basic 2 piece pricing is similar.

The question is: what works for you?

I'm sticking with Pat for now. Might give Yao a try. Will definitely go with Iris in Singapore at some point in time.
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