Australian Members

cheungish · May 4, 2012

Asta said:
Is there anyone from Melbourne here that can recommend me a tailor?
I recently bought a 3-roll-2 herringbone tweed suit, and was looking to get both the jacket and pants slimmed down.
Excuse the blurriness; DSLR+No tripod+Bad lighting=Poor focusing.

Hey Man, Drop by Herringbone near Collins Place, Aaron and Christian can give you a hand on the clothes and talk about style as well

Sam Hober · May 4, 2012

Charlie's Wardrobe said:
Yeah me neither. I've googled extensively and can't find what any of the ties makers or silk producers measure by, to get to the 50oz weight. It seems to be something that mainly the british makers use rather than the Italians that I deal with. Anyway, as I said it's a great weight and the tie will come out fantastic in the end.

50oz for Macclesfield silks is the rough weight per 10 yards.

Keep in mind that Macclesfield prints are also going to be wider than typical woven silks.

It is an old form of measurement.

The 50oz Macclesfields are quite heavy and we typically use them with our madder silks.

The best way to measure when having silks woven is by the warp and weft count.

California Dreamer · May 4, 2012

Charlie's Wardrobe said:
the knot looks overly thick, so try a four in hand.

I used to always tie the FIH. I started to experiment with knots when I first joined SF, and read a book called The 85 Ways To Tie a Tie around the same time. I eventually settled on the Pratt knot, as in all the photos I've been posting, because it seemed to give me the best results when trying to get a good dimple. It helps bulk up lighter weight ties like Hermes, but I do agree that it can look a bit big with more substantial silks.

Something that seemes so routine and simple also got thrown into chaos last year when I lost 1.5 inches off my neck size. All of my ties just seemed to be the wrong length, and I pretty much had to relearn how to tie evey one of them to get them to come out right. Ties that don't get a lot of airplay, like the pink Breuer, I am still getting right.

Do you stick to a favoured knot, or do you change knots depending on the tie? That might be what I need to start doing.

Gerry Nelson · May 4, 2012

California Dreamer said:
Do you stick to a favoured knot, or do you change knots depending on the tie? That might be what I need to start doing.

I used to tie a half Windsor all the time until about six months ago when I started using a four-in-hand although I might go to a full Windsor for a less substantial tie. Since the end goal is the overall look, I'd vary the knot to suit the tie/collar. I find that the four-in-hand knot works for me most of the time but if you can do a half-Windsor, full Windsor, Pratt and four-in-hand, you've pretty much covered all your bases.

It's also nice to be a little versatile

CHECKstar · May 4, 2012

When I was 15 and had to do work experience, Dad pulled me aside to teach me how to tie a tie. I didn't know at the time of different knits, and I later found out that he taught me how to do a full Windsor (apparently left handed, because he is left handed). For the next few years it would be my go to knot, not knowing anything else.

Eventually my sense of style would have me drift towards four-in-hand. It wasn't the SF group think that got me there, but rather the simplicity of the FIH. Funnily enough, when try to convert die hard windsor devotees to the wonders of FiH, it's the complexity of the windsor that they seem to like best about it, like as if they have the apex of tie mastery.

I currently don't have any ties that I would wear in a knit other then FIH, but I would never discount it in future, as I am sure my style will evolve over time.

Jimbosaurus · May 4, 2012

Sam Hober said:
50oz for Macclesfield silks is the rough weight per 10 yards.
Keep in mind that Macclesfield prints are also going to be wider than typical woven silks.
It is an old form of measurement.
The 50oz Macclesfields are quite heavy and we typically use them with our madder silks.
The best way to measure when having silks woven is by the warp and weft count.

Thanks for that David, very helpful.

blahman · May 4, 2012

I started High School doing Halfies, then moved to Full Windsor because all the cool kids are doing it. Did 4ih and halfies onlyfrom couple of years ago but tried a few different knots as well, now days I'm pretty much just 4ih for thicker ties and double 4ih for lighter ties. Have to admit I really do like double 4ih for the knot doesn't need adjusting much at all throughout the day.

Geoffrey Firmin · May 4, 2012

California Dreamer said:
Do you stick to a favoured knot, or do you change knots depending on the tie? That might be what I need to start doing.

I usea FIN for normal day to day wear and a half Windsor on occasions one knot that i quite like for more formal events is the Christensen, a very elegant knot whose symettry is based on the Botticelli's Venus. Think of the proportions of the classic coke bottle which was modled on the Venus as well.

smeggett · May 4, 2012

blahman said:
I started High School doing Halfies, then moved to Full Windsor because all the cool kids are doing it. Did 4ih and halfies onlyfrom couple of years ago but tried a few different knots as well, now days I'm pretty much just 4ih for thicker ties and double 4ih for lighter ties. Have to admit I really do like double 4ih for the knot doesn't need adjusting much at all throughout the day.

Similar story here - in school it was always a windsor knot (not 'cos I was cool, but rather I liked the 'wholeness' of the knot compared to a half windsor - the only alternative knot my Dad taught me). The school tie was quite thin, so the full windsor worked, but these days with the silk ties I have (very few) the knots are massively fat with a full windsor, so I'm back to the half. It looks like I'll have to teach myself a few new (for me) knots, like the 4IH!! I much prefer a knot with a nice symmetry, which I don't get with a half windsor.

tobiasj · May 5, 2012

smeggett said:
Similar story here - in school it was always a windsor knot (not 'cos I was cool, but rather I liked the 'wholeness' of the knot compared to a half windsor - the only alternative knot my Dad taught me). The school tie was quite thin, so the full windsor worked, but these days with the silk ties I have (very few) the knots are massively fat with a full windsor, so I'm back to the half. It looks like I'll have to teach myself a few new (for me) knots, like the 4IH!! I much prefer a knot with a nice symmetry, which I don't get with a half windsor.

But what about the sprezz bro?

Henry Carter · May 5, 2012

California Dreamer said:
I used to always tie the FIH. I started to experiment with knots when I first joined SF, and read a book called The 85 Ways To Tie a Tie around the same time. I eventually settled on the Pratt knot, as in all the photos I've been posting, because it seemed to give me the best results when trying to get a good dimple. It helps bulk up lighter weight ties like Hermes, but I do agree that it can look a bit big with more substantial silks.
Something that seemes so routine and simple also got thrown into chaos last year when I lost 1.5 inchesength off my neck size. All of my ties just seemed to be the wrong length, and I pretty much had to relearn how to tie evey one of them to get them to come out right. Ties that don't get a lot of airplay, like the pink Breuer, I am still getting right.
Do you stick to a favoured knot, or do you change knots depending on the tie? That might be what I need to start doing.

I only ever do four in hand, and have done since I worked at Fletcher Jones 10 years ago.

I reckon life is too short to tie your tie 85 different ways, and I'm a busy bastard. I pretty much never have to re-tie my tie with a four in hand. I found half windsors etc a lot harder to estimate llength. Plus I like the asymmetrical slant and I can get a good dimple easily. That's it pretty much.

California Dreamer · May 5, 2012

Charlie's Wardrobe said:
I reckon life is too short to tie your tie 85 different ways

Me too. The 85 ways thing was a couple of academics proving that 85 is the maximum possible number of knots.

Geoffrey Firmin · May 5, 2012

California Dreamer said:
Me too. The 85 ways thing was a couple of academics proving that 85 is the maximum possible number of knots.

85 that's absurd, but having the knowledge of a 3 or 4 knots is useful and does allow a bit of variety to respond to differing social situations. Also a windsor looks good and is practical with a cutaway collar, a FIN would look out of place IMV.

And the Owls won last night 21-10 with the boy setting up the final try to put the game beyond doubt with five minutes to go. I forgot how cold it gets at Canberra Stadium and its not offically winter yet.

Gerry Nelson · May 5, 2012

GF, agreed! I would still like to learn to tie a bow tie although I have no occasion to wear one.

blahman · May 5, 2012

^^ Too low in the company food chain for me to need to have a bow tie or dinner jacket any time soon.

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