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Australian Members - Page 1690

post #25336 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie's Wardrobe View Post

Not really, unless the major tafe's can find some tailors willing to teach tailoring, instead of designer's or dressmakers teaching fashion design. I suspect the problem lies here, not so much with younger people willing to learn. That, and there is an extremely low call for bespoke tailoring in Australia. Even the current prominent shop in Australia, P.Johnson Tailors, are not tailors themselves, it's all outsourced. And I don't say that to put them down, I say it to say you don't need to be a tailor to have a successful business/career in menswear. But there's all the marketing, business acumen, press etc you do need and unfortunately most true tailors don't have the latter.

Adding to the above. Theres many tiered issues here. Old school tailoring took on apprentices at 15 or younger, and, depending on your viewpoint, basically exploited them, or fed and clothed them and kept them off the streets, and taught them many basic skills along the way. Starting with sweeping the floor only. Its a common pattern, hairdressing was like that too and other "trades". In addition many tailors jealously and irrationally guarded (and still do) the ways they did things. Some of the ways they did things were simply traditional and not even the best way by a longshot.

The world changed in the 50s 60s and teenagers were invented. Neither children nor adults.

Most traditional apprenticeships/craft guilds etc didn't adapt. The post-industrial era didn't value such things as hand single shop tailoring when "pretty bloody good enough" factory made clothing (even tailored stuff) was cheap, good quality and ubiquitous. Australia's Wool Industry and Government have a lot to answer for but thats for another story/book. On that I highly recommend anyone truly interested in all this and context to read Breaking the Sheep’s Back, by Charles Massey

No one these days is going to go to full time work at 15 for peanuts, work 10 years then maybe, just maybe make a living as a tailor. Schools of Fashion and Textile Technology have to follow the money and thats NOT in Mens bespoke Tailoring in Melbourne. Just off the top of my head I can think of less than 10 tailors in Melbourne, most near or past retirement age, who could make you a half decent suit - and here I'm not even talking forum approved. Of those 3 or 4 I know a bit more about I can think of not one has an apprentice. I doubt the others do either.

People became tailors because they were good artisans, or became good artisans, with a bit of luck and experience they also could understand how to compensate for the normal bodies of most people and create a silhouette etc. If they were a bit more talented in certain areas, and some of this is personality and art, they could keep up with changing fashions.

The times have been against tailoring. Not attractive to young trainees, minimum wages in Australia making it uneconomical for a small tailor shop to employ an apprentice/trainee, prejudice against tailor made clothes, cheap ready made suits and a general increasing casualisation of everyday, business and formal wear. A casualisation accelerated beyond the existing trends to say wear lounge suits instead of morning suits, sportcoats instead of suits, no tie instead of ties, athletic shoes instead of leather shoes etc.

In addition tailors, in general, with some exceptions, have contributed to the problem. They haven't been helped by the above economic and social factors. Whereas you can find manuals/books on say, engineering, how to build a plane yourself,machine the parts and to fly it, how to program piece of software - its difficult to get hold of a useful modern how to manual on tailoring. Its unfair to criticise a previous generation of tailors for not being manual writers or makers of videos to teach. Although that does seem to be changing. Whilst experience and experience and experience will always only be able to be obtained by doing work over a period, some parts of tailoring could and can be learnt by a determined and committed late starter possibly even in less than 10 years. Much good work can also be done by machinery. A mix of artisan hand skills and smart use of machinery (CAD type patterns, some cutting and sewing etc) combined well is likely to be the future.

The "new" tailors or artisanal skills will come mainly from asia or low wage countries where it still makes a sense to have such a career. There will also be a few, possibly enough at times, people who will take it up as an advanced hobby or late vocation. Perhaps.
post #25337 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Has anyone here watched Django Unchained?

Hnnnnnggggg!
post #25338 of 31992

Where did you 'copy and paste' that from Fxh? smile.gif

 

Well said, I feel like I know more already.

post #25339 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

Where did you 'copy and paste' that from Fxh? smile.gif

Well said, I feel like I know more already.

The Grandmaster does not need to "cut and paste".
post #25340 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

Where did you 'copy and paste' that from Fxh? smile.gif

Well said, I feel like I know more already.

Michael - I just banged a rant out off the top of my head while watching QI then the ABBA doco.

I'm not sure it says what I want but I think the general idea is there.

Its just an expansion of some of the other issues in skills based artisan trade work. I've also had a long interest in the schemozzle that is/was the Australian Wool Industry, from inside and as a consumer. The best fine wool in the world comes from here yet we have no high end suiting etc textile industry. Its not clear why. I'm also inclined to blame, at least partly or even mainly, the Wool Politics Industry (protectionism, mercantilism and the floor price fiasco as well as other issues) for the decline in worldwide consumer demand for wool garments in the 60, 70s etc. Not to mention the associated machinations in te market withteh floor price leading to loss of trust between the Italian textiles industry, the Japanese and even the English mills that is still effecting us..
post #25341 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post


Michael - I just banged a rant out off the top of my head while watching QI then the ABBA doco.

I'm not sure it says what I want but I think the general idea is there.

Its just an expansion of some of the other issues in skills based artisan trade work. I've also had a long interest in the schemozzle that is/was the Australian Wool Industry, from inside and as a consumer. The best fine wool in the world comes from here yet we have no high end suiting etc textile industry. Its not clear why. I'm also inclined to blame, at least partly or even mainly, the Wool Politics Industry (protectionism, mercantilism and the floor price fiasco as well as other issues) for the decline in worldwide consumer demand for wool garments in the 60, 70s etc. Not to mention the associated machinations in te market withteh floor price leading to loss of trust between the Italian textiles industry, the Japanese and even the English mills that is still effecting us..

You're an ABC man. That says it all. How are the Doc Martin repeats treating you?

 

I wish I could comment on other apsects of your post, but it'd just highlight my ignorance in the area.

 

What I have found growing up in Sydney, is that there is a hell of a lot of 'children of immigrants'. Many of them, under the heavy influence of their parents, are opting to head into: law, medicine, financial services, marketing, journalism etc. Where I have grown up, the idea of leaving in year 10 and pursuing any kind of trade was not pushed at all, infact, it was almost silently frowned upon. This is my observation in the last 10 years. I look around at University, my course in particular, and there are a hell of a lot of people that shouldn't be there. It must be easier to get into university than ever before, and the trades are feeling that. 15 years ago, a builder/plumber/sparky wouldn't have treated you the way they do today. Trades aren't popular at the moment, getting a degree is.

post #25342 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

You're an ABC man. That says it all. How are the Doc Martin repeats treating you?

I wish I could comment on other apsects of your post, but it'd just highlight my ignorance in the area.

What I have found growing up in Sydney, is that there is a hell of a lot of 'children of immigrants'. Many of them, under the heavy influence of their parents, are opting to head into: law, medicine, financial services, marketing, journalism etc. Where I have grown up, the idea of leaving in year 10 and pursuing any kind of trade was not pushed at all, infact, it was almost silently frowned upon. This is my observation in the last 10 years. I look around at University, my course in particular, and there are a hell of a lot of people that shouldn't be there. It must be easier to get into university than ever before, and the trades are feeling that. 15 years ago, a builder/plumber/sparky wouldn't have treated you the way they do today. Trades aren't popular at the moment, getting a degree is.

MS, I don't understand what you mean here.
post #25343 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Wait for pics, my friend. Never fear, they're 'classic menswear', I don't want to ruffle feathers with streetwear.

I did the same but as you said, pics will come soon.
post #25344 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post


MS, I don't understand what you mean here.

A lot of people joke about the fact that you don't need to attend a lecture to pass a subject.

 

You can get a degree, albeit passes, when you don't even put much effort in.

 

You'd expect people that are diligent, studious and hardworking to be at university. It just isn't the case for a large portion.

 

What proportion of high school leavers went on to to get a university degree 40 years ago? What proportion of high school leavers go on to get a university degree today? That difference is the swing from trades to tertiary. Tailoring is a trade that will and has been the first to go - it isn't an essential trade.

 

The government has made it pretty clear. Australia's future lays in innovation, not manual skills. They want people to go to school for longer and get more qualifications.

post #25345 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

At the risk of putting words into CD's mouth, I believe that when he was a child, he said that his mum was XX years of age when he was talking with the postman. Given that there are many women out there who don't like their actual age to be discussed, his mum was unsurprisingly not really pleased that he had disclosed that information to the postman!

Couldn't have put it better myself!
post #25346 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

A lot of people joke about the fact that you don't need to attend a lecture to pass a subject.

You can get a degree, albeit passes, when you don't even put much effort in.

You'd expect people that are diligent, studious and hardworking to be at university. It just isn't the case for a large portion.

Not necessarily; people's reasons for attending university vary. Some are interested in the (noble) acquisition of knowledge, for others it's just something they have to do to get the job they want and they couldn't care less for it. There are scores of other reasons, I guess.
post #25347 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petepan View Post

Anybody here old enough to remember the song Election Day by Arcadia (Duran Duran)?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3Yy6c0Tlvk

Days of boys in makeup and HUGE MFecking Shoulder Pads.

Now that brings back memories... And reminds me of my age. smile.gif
post #25348 of 31992
Picked up a shirt from Charles Nakhle earlier today and I am very satisfied with the result. If there are any Sydneysiders searching for some good shirts, look no further.

Off to Melbourne tomorrow for a long weekend. Anything special one shouldnt miss going there?
post #25349 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsberg View Post

Picked up a shirt from Charles Nakhle earlier today and I am very satisfied with the result. If there are any Sydneysiders searching for some good shirts, look no further.

Off to Melbourne tomorrow for a long weekend. Anything special one shouldnt miss going there?

 

Double Monk for shoes, Huxtaburger and Chin Chin for food.

post #25350 of 31992
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Double Monk for shoes, Huxtaburger and Chin Chin for food.

Cheers!
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