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Australian Members - Page 1599

post #23971 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

I can't imagine ever buying ties that aren't Vanda or HC.

Really? Good things come in all shapes, sizes and colours....

Drakes, Marinella, Cappelli, Hober etc etc etc
post #23972 of 53827

All of those brands offer quality products, to be sure.

 

Vanda offers the best of what I'm after - non-printed, high quality, unique fabric ties.

HC also offers some good staples, and is local (which is a plus).

 

TBH, I've never seen a Drakes tie that wowed me, some Cappelli were OK, Hober complicates things too much for simple old me, etc.

 

Vanda I can hit up there website and want abot $600 worth of ties everytime.

 

That Jason, Gerald and Diana are lovely people with excellent customer service and dedication adds something to the mix as well.

 

I'm sure there are people who prefer other makers, as you said there is plenty of variety so we can all be happy.

post #23973 of 53827
Here are some photos of today's outfits. Regrettably, it appears that my photos are getting worse, rather than better. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to use my X100 to photograph myself and then fiddle about with transferring photos, so I'll just have to carry on using my iPhone 3GS with an old iOS.

Anyway, without further ado:


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Details:
- Blue, herringbone-weave cotton suit by Herringbone (colour is an interesting blue, with a slightly melange to it);
- Herringbone sky-blue pocket square with white edging;
- Drake's printed silk tie (in an unusually sensible, 9cm width);
- Land's End blue-and-white striped oxford cloth shirt with button-down collar;
- Edward Green "Berkeley" punch captoe balmorals in chestnut.
post #23974 of 53827
Whoa. That middle shot is vertiginous.
post #23975 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selvaggio View Post


Hey DB - I think I know what you mean, but I woud not get too hung up on the spalla camicia side of things.... but obviously you know what you are after and my speculation may be wide of the mark.
There are two things at play here. How the shoulder is given structure and how the sleeve is attached. I get why you are after the soft shouldered look. I am quite broad, a little portly and a really strong, padded shoulder makes my chest/shoulders and head look like a block with a ball balanced on top. With the minimal padding of my MJBale and a couple of other sports coats I have that effect is minimised because the shoulder of the jacket fits much closer to the line of my natural shoulders. I really like the soft shoulder.
But spalla camicia is all about the seam between the shoulder and sleeve. When they are joined one piece can have a bit of extra fabric folded back on itself (doubled) and then a single peice of fabric from the other part is overlapped and they are sewn together. If the doubled peice is the shoulder the sleeve appears to fall away softly - like a shirt, hence spalla acamicia. If the doubled bit is on the sleeve and the shoulder is single, you get a wee roll at the top of the sleeve - this is a less "soft" look.
But I think it is the padding that makes the most difference - especially if you are broad shouldered, as the seam will flatten somewhat over the curve of you shoulder anyway. This is good news, beacuse I think you would be searching a good while for an OTR suit in Oz with true spalla camicia.
Apologies if this is already known, but I think it can be confusing sometimes, so I thought I should mention.

 

Selvaggio, that was pure education, thank you. A jacket which complements my natural shoulder line rather exaggerate is my aim, trying to avoid the goomba look out of a James Cagney movie : )

 

The path to be a well dressed gentleman, aint easy...

post #23976 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

Successful op-shop outing smile.gif
In Mildura? Do tell.
post #23977 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Shouldn't be an issue - at the beginning of January, MJ Bale sent out an email asking their customers to contact him with any feedback or suggestions.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ernesto View Post

Yes, I should have pointed out that in his latest email to customers he said 'My email address is at the bottom of this email, please don't hesitate to contact me with feedback or suggestions...'
I hope he doesn't mind me promoting this among a broader audience.
PS. Sam Hober ties are excellent and the service is exemplary.

I didn't realise that went out to all MJB customers... and here I was thinking a few select individuals including myself had received a personally signed letter for paying Matt's mortgage off one suit at a time. Will have to shoot him an email and complain...

;-)

FWIW Michael, Matt is a professional, geniune guy, and if anything I'd guess starting MJ Bale has probably eaten into his fortune at this stage more than made it... Most of the people in the Aussie rag trade I've met are actually pretty down to earth. With a few exceptions...
post #23978 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selvaggio View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hey DB - I think I know what you mean, but I woud not get too hung up on the spalla camicia side of things.... but obviously you know what you are after and my speculation may be wide of the mark.
There are two things at play here. How the shoulder is given structure and how the sleeve is attached. I get why you are after the soft shouldered look. I am quite broad, a little portly and a really strong, padded shoulder makes my chest/shoulders and head look like a block with a ball balanced on top. With the minimal padding of my MJBale and a couple of other sports coats I have that effect is minimised because the shoulder of the jacket fits much closer to the line of my natural shoulders. I really like the soft shoulder.
But spalla camicia is all about the seam between the shoulder and sleeve. When they are joined one piece can have a bit of extra fabric folded back on itself (doubled) and then a single peice of fabric from the other part is overlapped and they are sewn together. If the doubled peice is the shoulder the sleeve appears to fall away softly - like a shirt, hence spalla acamicia. If the doubled bit is on the sleeve and the shoulder is single, you get a wee roll at the top of the sleeve - this is a less "soft" look.
But I think it is the padding that makes the most difference - especially if you are broad shouldered, as the seam will flatten somewhat over the curve of you shoulder anyway. This is good news, beacuse I think you would be searching a good while for an OTR suit in Oz with true spalla camicia.
Apologies if this is already known, but I think it can be confusing sometimes, so I thought I shold mention.

Good summary Selvaggio. Dusty b - there is a thread floating around somewhere on here by jeffreyd (now there is a guy who knows his stuff) about shoulder expression on jackets. I suggest you look it up if you haven't seen it as it's a very good read.
post #23979 of 53827

Any impressions of "The Cordial Churchman's" bow ties? Looking for a one to wear with a blue on white candy or hairline striped shirt; any other suggestions under $50 (not including shipping)?

post #23980 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prince of Paisley View Post

FWIW Michael, Matt is a professional, geniune guy, and if anything I'd guess starting MJ Bale has probably eaten into his fortune at this stage more than made it... Most of the people in the Aussie rag trade I've met are actually pretty down to earth. With a few exceptions...

I was just having a whinge :). Something must have been annoying me at the time of reading.

 

Did anyone else sweat today? Even in the highest quality fabrics, I think at these temperatures the body just wants to sweat.

post #23981 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Any impressions of "The Cordial Churchman's" bow ties? Looking for a one to wear with a blue on white candy or hairline striped shirt; any other suggestions under $50 (not including shipping)?

Spend a bit more and help out a local producer:

 

http://www.lenoeudpapillon.com/

post #23982 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Sorry to rain on your parade, but I'm a great fan of Shop The Finest and have been to the actual shop
(warehouse) several times.The last time I was there about a year ago Ian, the owner had a large selection
of suits and jackets from Italian makers, especially Attolini, but nary a "shirt shoulder" or really "natural"
Neapolitan shoulder garment- at least in my size 44R. If one looks at the website, most of the garments
show more built up shoulders than this Kiton:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7250-Rare-KITON-Napoli-Brown-Pure-Cashmere-Jacket-EU-50-NEW-38-40-/290832444941?pt=US_CSA_MC_Blazers_Sport_Coats&hash=item43b6f6
Alternatively, one can buy an American Ivy League garment- another species of natural shoulder, which I grew up
with from OConnells in Buffalo NY, USA:
http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/product.php?productid=17529&cat=250&page=1


No need to apologise - I bought a Borrelli LV 'linosa' jacket from shopthefinest ~3 months ago (in a 38 admittedly). It has a beautiful, soft shoulder too.

From what I can see, many of the Borrelli LV line on the website display the shoulder in question.
post #23983 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post


TBH, I've never seen a Drakes tie that wowed me,

post #23984 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Land's End blue-and-white striped oxford cloth shirt with button-down collar

OCBDs at this time of year? In Brisbane?!
post #23985 of 53827
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Any impressions of "The Cordial Churchman's" bow ties? Looking for a one to wear with a blue on white candy or hairline striped shirt; any other suggestions under $50 (not including shipping)?

I've got a few. They are not amazing quality, but are fine for the price. I think that their woollen fabrics tie a better looking bow than their cotton or silk fabrics.

Also, have a look on eBay for RL Polo or Brooks Brothers bow ties as there are often some good ones listed in classic patterns or prints that are very affordable.
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