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Australian Members - Page 1532

post #22966 of 54935
Anyone head to Meredith over the weekend? A sunburnt neck does not mesh well with a collared shirt & tie frown.gif
post #22967 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobiasj View Post

Hi all
I just got a pair of shell cordovan Florsheim longwings off the 'bay. As you can see they are pretty worn, but they fit really well so I'm keen to restore them to some sort of glory. Looks like they will need a re-heel; the sole might last a bit longer I think.
The main issue though is the colour. They're burgundy in places, but the vamp and medallion at the front are nearly black. I guess this could be because someone has used a black wax on them? Not sure. Should I apply some sort of cleaner, or just brush them? If it's just brushing, do I need to use a particular kind of brush?
All comments, advice or sledging welcome.



I love those shoes - I have three pairs in cordovan - two in burgundy and one black. They are not especially elegant, but then again nor are my flappers, so we are a good match.

Here are somethings I have discovered. If you find a well used pair in burgundy, there is no avoiding the darker tones on the toes. I don't think it is related to black wax - I think it is related to exposure to light. I have one pair which is new-old-stock and they are much brighter and redder. They darken with age from red to a deep mahogany. The difference in shade is caused by the higher parts sitting under the trousers.

The second thing I have discovered is that old cordovan can be a bit fragile. My NOS long wings have split through the brogueing - despite me conditioning them. I suspect, without proof or knowledge, that the more used a shoe the better. I thin the NOS shoes may have been sitting around for a couple of decades quietly drying out.

Enjoy.
post #22968 of 54935

Good article referenced recently in putthison. 

 

http://www.texasmonthly.com/2012-10-01/feature2.php - Postal worker who paints for Hermes

 

Enjoy the article. 

post #22969 of 54935
Thanks Selvaggio and thebrownman -- very helpful tips and advice. I wondered if maybe there was a natural darkening thing going on, that's certainly what it looks like.

As an aside, these were only USD 132 shipped, so good deals on vintage shell can be had...
post #22970 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Who here uses online shirt makers, e.g. Cottonwork? What tips do you have for ensuring a shirt that fits and that you're happy with seeing as how trying it on/being fitted properly is out of the equation.


Modern Tailor trial shirt > $20. Cheap mistake if it doesn't work for you.

 

I'd recommend if you're going for the fitted look that you take a couple cms off your measurements as they add a bit even if you go for the slim fit option & at least for me shirts have worked out to be a bit too big through the waist & hips.

 

Otherwise if you can part with a really well fitting shirt for a couple weeks they can supposedly copy it perfectly.

post #22971 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marbles View Post

Otherwise if you can part with a really well fitting shirt for a couple weeks they can supposedly copy it perfectly.

The copy a shirt option does interest me. However, I've heard that with some makers when they copy the shirt measurement, they don't allow for the seam allowance and you end up with a shirt that fits smaller than the one you gave in. I'd assume Cottonwork is above this?
post #22972 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Who here uses online shirt makers, e.g. Cottonwork? What tips do you have for ensuring a shirt that fits and that you're happy with seeing as how trying it on/being fitted properly is out of the equation.
\

TBM I'm a veteran of the online shirt thang, all from Modern Tailor.

The most important thing is to start with the OTR shirt that you have that fits you the best. Measure the shirt and punch those numbers in, altering them a little where you see fit (don't use body measurements, this method is notorious for working out badly). Then when you get the shirt, wash it a couple of times, wear it and critique the fit (do it yourself and/or post pics on here for feedback). Then adjust your measurements as necessary and order again.

The Modern Tailor $20 shirt is definitely the way to go first up. Once you have your fit dialled in (this might unfortunately take more than one attempt) you might want to try other makers--Luxire seem excellent.

I love online MTM for shirts, but I must admit that getting my measurements just right was not an easy or fast process. Also, your tolerance for a less than perfect fit goes down. Still worth it though IMO, particularly if you are hard to fit in OTR shirts.
post #22973 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Who here uses online shirt makers, e.g. Cottonwork? What tips do you have for ensuring a shirt that fits and that you're happy with seeing as how trying it on/being fitted properly is out of the equation.

BM - I've used Modern Tailor in the past using body measurements and got very wishy-washy results. Not bad, but not great. That said I was using my body measurements - I am sure if I was willing to keep forking out, I could have perfected the fit over a number of shirts. I did find that the finishing on MT shirts were a little on the rough side.

On a tip from Tobiasj I recently started with Luxire, and I think the finishing is far better then MT. This time I was able to use the measurements from a PJ shirt, so the fit was dead on. I am going to be ordering more from Luxire over the next few months.
post #22974 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by iSurg View Post

Good article referenced recently in putthison. 

http://www.texasmonthly.com/2012-10-01/feature2.php - Postal worker who paints for Hermes

Enjoy the article. 

Ta. A great read.
post #22975 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

The copy a shirt option does interest me. However, I've heard that with some makers when they copy the shirt measurement, they don't allow for the seam allowance and you end up with a shirt that fits smaller than the one you gave in. I'd assume Cottonwork is above this?

Yes.
post #22976 of 54935
I've fallen behind a bit in posting what I've been wearing of late, so I thought that I'd put up some photos of recent outfits.

This is what I wore to the Brisbane get-together at Tattersall's Club a bit over a week ago.

Now you see them:


Now you don't:


A few more shots under the spoiler: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Details:
- MTO suit in mid-grey sharkskin by Deer Style;
- MTO shirt in sky blue, end-on-end weave fabric by Deer Style;
- MTO tie in navy silk with a neat print of green and blue flowers, by Tessitura Albeni for Deer Style;
- White linen pocket square by Kent Wang;
- Braces by Brooks Brothers' "Golden Fleece" line (probably made by Albert Thurston for BB);
- Green cotton Uniqlo socks; and
- C&J Drummonds in beechnut.
post #22977 of 54935
Shout-out to Lennier, whom I spied today wearing a fabulous tan linen suit and some brown double monks.

Also spotted an older gent in a fantastic medium blue 3-button suit with pocket square.

Little Collins street was buzzing today.
post #22978 of 54935
Quote:
Originally Posted by __PG__ View Post

Shout-out to Lennier, whom I spied today wearing a fabulous tan linen suit and some brown double monks.
Also spotted an older gent in a fantastic medium blue 3-button suit with pocket square.
Little Collins street was buzzing today.

Thanks PG, you should have literally shouted out! smile.gif Suit is cotton in fact.
post #22979 of 54935

Just saw the talk about Christian's chukkas; have they launched yet? (Heard they were supposed to launch at beggarmanthief in November) Any of you guys got a pair already as well?

P.S.

Gerry how'd you get that shine on you RMW's?

post #22980 of 54935
Fire drill in the Telstra building at the top of Collins St. Never seen so many people dressed in business shirts and no ties. They were fricken everywhere. Hundreds of them.
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