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Australian Members - Page 1445
Styleforum Top Pickspost #21662 of 5780111/19/12 at 3:37pmWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)Quote:Originally Posted by Spandexter
I recently picked up some Howard Yount grey flannel and Epaulet navy donegal tweed trousers as well as an Epaulet button down oxford. I couldn't decide between the HY's and EP's so decided to pick up one of each and I have to say I am impressed by both. Neither require any modification except for hemming and both are a true slim fit with a lovely drape. If I had to pick one over the other I'd give it to the EP trousers by the smallest of margins as they just feel really, really nice on but to be honest I don't think you can go wrong with either. Shirt is really nice quality too although I think the neck might be a half inch too big. Apologies for the crappy iphone pics.
Thoughts on these Carmina Chelsea boots? Half of me really likes them and the other half isn't quite sure.
Come on man, basically the only home grown quality product out there is RM Williams, so when you have an opportunity to buy them go for it. I'm not entirely sure, but given the great things people say about RM Williams construction I think they'd be close if not on par with Carmina (only for boots). I love the look of some of those Carmina chelsea boots, but I couldn't bare to admit that I'd snubbed RM Williams for something European.
(For the record, this is about as patriotic as I get)post #21663 of 5780111/19/12 at 4:00pmpost #21664 of 5780111/19/12 at 4:26pmWell - as usual it depends.
If the collar is starched very very stiff then it will wear a bit more against the neck and cuffs, but starch can also assist in preventing dirt from ingraining in material. Starch is water soluble so just washes out and takes dirt with it. Theres a whole bunch of new spray on starches . Theres a whole small science of starches - how to iron it get it a shiny look - how not to. How to make your own starch. I don't use it.
The truth is nowadays that your shirt will get worn out more from washing harshly and drying in dryer. Theres no need to wash in anything but cold water, minimal detergent and on super gentle wash and drip dry on hanger ideally. The old traveling standby, wash shirt by hand as you shower at night and hang on hanger over shower, dry any dampness with iron or hair dryer in morning, is possibly the best way to do your shirts anyway.post #21665 of 5780111/19/12 at 4:39pmQuote:
FXH, from now on, I will only cold wash and drip dry my shirts, jumpers, trousers and shorts. I have heard fabric softener will destroy your clothes, but people who smell my clothes say they smell great, and that is attributable to fluffy :D.post #21666 of 5780111/19/12 at 4:47pmpost #21667 of 5780111/19/12 at 4:54pmQuote:
What about when one of your kids, or your wife cuddles you? The smell of your beautiful, fabric softened shirts will work wonders. That's why they call it 'cuddly'.
It also makes it much easier to iron.post #21668 of 5780111/19/12 at 5:21pmQuote:
Only thing i didnt like was the inch of "disappearing" collar under the knot-boner .. probably the angleQuote:Originally Posted by lachyzee
I'm still experimenting with my collar order.
The one above is an unfused collar with the P Johnson cutaway dimensions (9cm points, 5cm height). I know HC goes with 3.75" points for his shirts which seem to have a fantastic collar - I may try this for a future order. I had 3" points on my first Luxire order which I found to be too short.
P Johnson goes with light fusing, though. I personally have become quite attached to the comfort factor of an unfused collar, though it will never be as crisp at the end of the day as a fused collar.
I like the pjohnson semi cutaway high collar personally. Did you know there are interlining options too? e.g. if I get a MTM with BD collar ill go lightest interlining for greatest roll. I generally prefer unfused collars and wear my shirts soft. I never use my collar stays unless Im at a wedding/funeral that commands respect.Quote:
Good quality fabric = easy to iron too :) Sometimes i just roll my shirts after the spin cycle and then hang them and for casual wear the soft unironed look is quite good.
Always iron shirts with tie and i never starch (sorry FXH) ... i also bare my ankles regularlypost #21669 of 5780111/19/12 at 5:52pmQuote:post #21670 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:01pmQuote:
I'd disagree here. My shirts from from DJA and Acorn (Grasmere Book) are a bitch to iron.post #21671 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:15pmpost #21672 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:17pmQuote:
yes i regret that comment now .. synthetics also stay well ironed hehe
OK better choice of words would be "better weaves = easier to iron"
so a twill is much easier than a poplin as an example.post #21673 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:19pmQuote:
PG isn't who you're thinking.post #21674 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:33pm
not sure if you guys already know but Herringbone is having a pop up sale next to Tiffany's in martin place. I just went over to have a quick look - suits are $399, ties $50, pants $80ish, knits $70 from the top of my head.
Not many sizes left from what I could see (but I didn't spend too long, was waaaay too crowded) a lot off 44+ suits / jackets. A few good quality knits/cardigans in the large/medium sizes too.post #21675 of 5780111/19/12 at 6:43pmQuote:
Think it isn't as easy as 'good fabric'.
For instance, my Sic Tess and T Mason oxfords are generally a dream to iron compared to the Alumo poplins.
OTOH, my white shirt in 2-fold 80s Alumo poplin is much easier to iron than the white shirt in 2-fold 120s Sic Tess oxford.
Then again, my two patterned Sic Tess oxfords (also 120s) are easier to iron than said 80s Alumo poplin.
Many a time, you have to trust your shirtmaker to give you an accurate lowdown on what you're buying. As Charles Nakhle often says, certain cloths 'love' the iron.
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