or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Australian Members - Page 1426

post #21376 of 48718
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Davo – sometime ago I said I’d do a thing on cufflinks. I was too busy – a week or so ago I was sipping a ( well several) Glenlivet Single Malt I’d been given and I tickled the keys and came up with this – I’ve meant to refine and edit it but I think posting now might be more useful. Too often the quest for perfection block the good enough.
Cufflinks are a relatively recent addition to men’s clothing. Probably came into widespread use in the mid 1800s with the advent of industrialisation or machining. Widespread not including the poor - which means most people. Previously the average bloke would wear a rough linen or rough cotton pop over shirt and it was considered underwear. It would be washed ever now and then or weekly or so- whether it was needed to be washed or not. The elite or wealthier would have various finer linen or silk or cotton but often with ruffles and frills on the cuffs – the elite weren’t all that much cleaner than the plebs. One of Brummell’s contributions, not much mentioned is that he took some pride in grooming and cleanliness. A radical thing to do. It took buttons and the gradual elimination of ruffles / frills to enable cufflinks to come into their own.
Initially cuffs were just fastened by whatever was used as buttons or fasteners. Mostly string or bits of ribboned material were used to fasten shirts at the front and cuffs. . It’s not a big step to see then how silk knots were used. (These days silk knots generally just refers to knots of material not necessarily or even mostly made of silk). The cufflink is a kind of coming together of the trends to the shirt being slightly less like underwear, cleanliness, and a combination of jewellery / broaches and the silk knot, and the decline of ruffles/ frills.
Compared to ruffles on the cuff, the double cuff/ folded cuff/ French Cuff is a simple and uncomplicated thing. It was held together by silk knots or metal bits usually held together by a chain link arrangement.
Again – if the cuff is to show and have some jewellery – the cufflink – to both be practical and hold it together and be an adornment or display of wealth and or taste then it had to be clean.
The cufflink should really have both sides for show. Not one side for show and one for utilitarian fastening.
However r- if you’ve ever tried to put a double sides chain linked cufflink through a double cuff in the morning in the dark and in a hurry you’ll appreciate why the ”modern” invention of the bar cufflink took off.
There are links that have double sides pressed together a bit like a press stud and I’ve found these aren’t to bad to put on.
There’s also the dumbell type link with a solid bar in between two well crafted ends – with the ”push through” end being slightly smaller to push through the button holes.
The cufflink is the one area where I – and many other men of taste – can tolerate the “joke” item. (On socks and ties the joke item marks you immediately as a man-boy never to be taken seriously and always to be kept a sharp eye on lest you start distributing pron by email, harassing women or simply being a total idiot in myriad other ways, whilst selling stock market tips, horse betting software,” investment “gold coast apartments, happy clappy Hillsong “church” or Amway. The only joke with joke ties and socks is on the wearer.)
As long as it’s not overly large the joke or quirky cufflink can work. The smaller and more subtle the better.
Over the years there have been many interesting little inventions to make the cufflink look good on both sides and also easy to put on.
The common bar with hinged back swivel bar link has won out.
Traditionally the cufflink should be small and not to ostentatious. In various periods – one we have experience of the 70s in particular - this small and discreet look was abandoned – with some success in my mind. Some great 70s cufflinks with the stirrup chain are available at sensible prices for the collector.
Traditionally it was gold for day wear and silver for after dark. But silver (colour not the precious metal) works in all situations and it the best all round colour. Plain and small works well always.
Me I find it difficult to wear cufflinks without a suit or at the least a jacket.. And often it seems a bit to much even with a suit. Cufflinks in my mind don’t work all that well with a sport coat. Except maybe “silk knots” which are often of course elastic knots these days.
The English are comfortable with the double folded cuff/ French cuff – they will wear it any where and everywhere – with a country sport coat, and without a jacket and even {gasp} without a tie.
Our American brothers strangely see the double cuff and cufflinks as suspect. Homosexual even. Non macho. Or dandy and European. Perhaps the same thing as homosexual in American eyes. The American male mainly only considers cufflinks and double cuffs with a Dinner Suit (or as they so quaintly call it “a Tuxedo”. Certainly in USA to wear cufflinks and double cuffs with a business suit is seen as pushing the envelope a bit. A very un-American habit.
Here in oz we seem to have more of the English approach and a double cuff and cufflink will rarely raise an eyebrow even in a “creative agency” or call centre.
No one here minds if you wear an open necked shirt with cufflinks. I don’t like it – but there you go – its not the worst sartorial in you can commit.
For me – its cufflinks usually only with a suit and tie {as an aside the term suit automatically accompanies tie – is the tie that needs to be documented} occasionally I can wear a cufflink – usually material knots with sports jacket, rarely without a tie. But lets face it because we aren’t as uptight as the Americans we all have the odd pink checked or striped shirt with double cuffs – so knots and simple plain links are a must.
Davo
I only noticed your website – I deliberately haven looked at it yet. So I’m not sure if I have offended you or not.
Here’s what I think I think
Australians are more like the English when it comes to cufflinks – comfortable with them in all kinds of situations. Open necked without tie, ( can you be opened necked with tie ? I suppose so) and also with out jacket. With sports coats and with suits.
People on forums like rules and lists;
Mine
Cufflinks should be double sided
Cufflinks should be small and simple
Silver (aluminium, stainless steel burnished or shiney etc) is for once better and more versatile than gold
to be worked up
 

 

Very information fxh. From what I understand, the French cuff in the US isn't just considered dandy, it's also seen as very elitist in some circles. Like something you don't do if you haven't "made it". Kind of like if you came across a 20 year old kid in a gold Rolex.

post #21377 of 48718
Gents, here is today's outfit:


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Details:
- French blue cotton suit by Deer Style (waist patch pockets, mid-brown buffalo horn buttons);
- Blue and white bengal striped shirt by Deer Style;
- Brown grenadine tie by Tie Rack;
- Brown glen plaid silk pocket square by Herringbone;
- Beechnut C&J Drummonds.
post #21378 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

This is my current wallet. It's not for everyone, but I love it.

http://www.noahlambert.com/

Nice dose it have space for credit card ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnnamedPlayer View Post

 

 

Here is a simple question, why should I pay $38 to ship something that weighs 500g from U.S.A to Melbourne?

 

If the wallet did cost $120 and shipping was $10 that would be differnet, becasue I wouldn;t pay $120 for that wallet, or any wallet.

 

Your argument is flawed in that you ARE looking at the total price.

I am looking at what is a reasonable price to charge for shipping an item, any item, from one country to another.

Noah explains his reasons for the shipping cost thought you may be interested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DartagnanRed View Post

I think by default you have to consider total cost as suppliers like to screw around with their shipping cost to appeal to our value perceptions, so we've never even really got an idea of the actual split between item price and shipping cost.

 

In your case Unnamed player, $38 is clearly quite high for shipping compared to normal shipping cost from the $US, so chances are the supplier has just shifted some product cost to delivery cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post


I just received (yet another) vintage brown window pane checked IVY tweed sport coat from USA. Postage =$18 USA.
Having shipped stuff back and forward to USA since the old days of exchanging bootleg music tapes I can say the USA postal "system" is weird and inefficient. I used to have stuff get to LA from here quicker than it would ship from LA to say Colorado.
For some reason USA post offices are hard to access, they aren't in all suburbs, and involve long times in queues and crazy paper work. Therefore many USA people prefer to ship using Fedex, DHL etc and this involves extra fees. In addition many prefer to ship with a higher insured service with tracking. (I'm not clear what real, as opposed to imagined, benefit tracking offers.) But thats the preference. Sometimes with individuals asking them to ship plain old UPS without insurance etc is the way to go.
* I think one reason / difference is that for ordinary letters etc the USA postie will also pick up mail to send from your home letter box - that s what those funny little flag arms on USA home letter boxes are for - too signal to postie to pickup mail. So a parcel post involves a lot more work than posting a "normal" letter. I think this is still the case but may have changed.

Thanks for your input.

 

 

To save any argument as to why shipping cost what it dose I decided to send Noah of  http://noah@noahlambert.com an email simpiy asking why the shipping would be $38 for such a small Item and to me his reply is most acceptable.

 

Here's the deal:

When I launched the Uni-Fold wallet in august of last year I offered free shipping on all orders, including international orders. I was using United States Postal Service (USPS) First Class International and at $6.94 USD it was a cost I could easily just absorb into the $90.00 USD price of the wallet.

Things were going smoothly and I began thinking to myself, "Wow, all of these other retailers are just downright ripping people off on international shipping. I'm shipping wallets all over the world for under $7.00!!! How can they get away with charging so much more?"

Then the problems began. Orders began getting lost. Some boxes would get returned to me weeks later empty. No tracking whatsoever. It was a nightmare and I had a lot of very upset folks all over the world. So then I began using USPS Priority International and again I just absorbed the cost of postage even though it was more then double at $13.25 USD. Things got a little better but many packages were still being lost and there was still no tracking. Also, please keep in mind that unlike many retailers, I always offer an immediate refund to any customer who's package does not arrive in a timely manner. As you can imagine, this kind of customer service can get very expensive very fast.

I had find another way. FedEx and UPS are both over $80.00 USD for an 8 oz. box so they were not even considered. I finally settled on USPS Express International EMS. The cost is high and at $38.00 USD it is just too expensive for me to give away for free. USPS Express offers tracking the whole way and wallets arrive in Australia and most other countries in 3-5 days. I know it is hideously expensive but I assure you I have spent hours and hours trying to figure out a cheaper alternative that is reliable enough for me to use and I just do not have a better solution.

I would rather explain the shipping cost than have to tell you that the wallet you've been patiently waiting for has been lost at sea.

Hope that helps.

If you have any other questions please let me know.

Thanks again,

Noah 

post #21379 of 48718
email from Noah at  http://www.noahlambert.com/
 
Here's the deal:
 
When I launched the Uni-Fold wallet in august of last year I offered free shipping on all orders, including international orders. I was using United States Postal Service (USPS) First Class International and at $6.94 USD it was a cost I could easily just absorb into the $90.00 USD price of the wallet.
 
Things were going smoothly and I began thinking to myself, "Wow, all of these other retailers are just downright ripping people off on international shipping. I'm shipping wallets all over the world for under $7.00!!! How can they get away with charging so much more?"
 
Then the problems began. Orders began getting lost. Some boxes would get returned to me weeks later empty. No tracking whatsoever. It was a nightmare and I had a lot of very upset folks all over the world. So then I began using USPS Priority International and again I just absorbed the cost of postage even though it was more then double at $13.25 USD. Things got a little better but many packages were still being lost and there was still no tracking. Also, please keep in mind that unlike many retailers, I always offer an immediate refund to any customer who's package does not arrive in a timely manner. As you can imagine, this kind of customer service can get very expensive very fast.
 
I had find another way. FedEx and UPS are both over $80.00 USD for an 8 oz. box so they were not even considered. I finally settled on USPS Express International EMS. The cost is high and at $38.00 USD it is just too expensive for me to give away for free. USPS Express offers tracking the whole way and wallets arrive in Australia and most other countries in 3-5 days. I know it is hideously expensive but I assure you I have spent hours and hours trying to figure out a cheaper alternative that is reliable enough for me to use and I just do not have a better solution.
 
I would rather explain the shipping cost than have to tell you that the wallet you've been patiently waiting for has been lost at sea.
 
Hope that helps.
 
If you have any other questions please let me know.
 
Thanks again,
 
Noah
post #21380 of 48718

Tried taking photos today, got distracted and busy at work. Will try again tomorrow!

post #21381 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Gents, here is today's outfit:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Details:
- French blue cotton suit by Deer Style (waist patch pockets, mid-brown buffalo horn buttons);
- Blue and white bengal striped shirt by Deer Style;
- Brown grenadine tie by Tie Rack;
- Brown glen plaid silk pocket square by Herringbone;
- Beechnut C&J Drummonds.

 

 

 

love the outfit, in particular the shoes.

post #21382 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

 

love the outfit, in particular the shoes.

 

+1, I wonder why C&J ever stopped making the Drummond in that colour.

post #21383 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by sliq View Post

 

love the outfit, in particular the shoes.

 

Is it just my computer, or does his suit go from dark navy to bright blue?


Edited by JimmyHoffa - 11/15/12 at 12:14am
post #21384 of 48718

Just the lighting, Michael. I see the same thing.

post #21385 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilmour View Post

Nice dose it have space for credit card ??

Noah explains his reasons for the shipping cost thought you may be interested.

Thanks for your input.

 

 

To save any argument as to why shipping cost what it dose I decided to send Noah of  http://noah@noahlambert.com an email simpiy asking why the shipping would be $38 for such a small Item and to me his reply is most acceptable.

 

Here's the deal:When I launched the Uni-Fold wallet in august of last year I offered free shipping on all orders, including international orders. I was using United States Postal Service (USPS) First Class International and at $6.94 USD it was a cost I could easily just absorb into the $90.00 USD price of the wallet.Things were going smoothly and I began thinking to myself, "Wow, all of these other retailers are just downright ripping people off on international shipping. I'm shipping wallets all over the world for under $7.00!!! How can they get away with charging so much more?"Then the problems began. Orders began getting lost. Some boxes would get returned to me weeks later empty. No tracking whatsoever. It was a nightmare and I had a lot of very upset folks all over the world. So then I began using USPS Priority International and again I just absorbed the cost of postage even though it was more then double at $13.25 USD. Things got a little better but many packages were still being lost and there was still no tracking. Also, please keep in mind that unlike many retailers, I always offer an immediate refund to any customer who's package does not arrive in a timely manner. As you can imagine, this kind of customer service can get very expensive very fast.I had find another way. FedEx and UPS are both over $80.00 USD for an 8 oz. box so they were not even considered. I finally settled on USPS Express International EMS. The cost is high and at $38.00 USD it is just too expensive for me to give away for free. USPS Express offers tracking the whole way and wallets arrive in Australia and most other countries in 3-5 days. I know it is hideously expensive but I assure you I have spent hours and hours trying to figure out a cheaper alternative that is reliable enough for me to use and I just do not have a better solution.I would rather explain the shipping cost than have to tell you that the wallet you've been patiently waiting for has been lost at sea.Hope that helps.If you have any other questions please let me know.Thanks again,

Noah 

 

Thanks for posting this. It seems to me that if you're willing to take the risk that the wallet might not arrive, then acknowledge it in writing and get him to ship it via USPS First Class International.

post #21386 of 48718
My Movember mo will get a good workout tomorrow. Got a party on with a 'Somewhere in South America' theme, and I'm going to go as Pablo Escobar.

Aviators, shirt collar over suit lapels, and bags of icing sugar inside a briefcase. LOL.
post #21387 of 48718

Anyone looking for coloured laces tried http://maxlaces.com.au/?

post #21388 of 48718
If you get in touch with Allen Edmonds direct (via their web site) and liaise with Tina in Customer Service, they will ship to Australia. Not the cheapest of exercises but they will do it.
post #21389 of 48718
What do AE charge to ship direct?

I used to buy from endless.com which was excellent with their endless coupons and free shipping.

Now I am not sure - there is a seller in the sales section of SF who sells discounted AEs for about $270 for the common models, and he charges $45 shipping to Aus.
post #21390 of 48718
Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy View Post

If you get in touch with Allen Edmonds direct (via their web site) and liaise with Tina in Customer Service, they will ship to Australia. Not the cheapest of exercises but they will do it.

Cheers for the info mate, shame about the shipping by the sounds of it, are there any other alternatives to acquire them at a descent price to Aus?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members