I'm a very fair man and refuse to fight below my division.
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Australian Members - Page 1343post #20131 of 6137910/30/12 at 10:53pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #20132 of 6137910/30/12 at 11:00pmQuote:Originally Posted by fxh
Looking at films and trying to workout what is being conveyed by the clothes is a rewarding and educating experience. In modern movies (in old movies stars - males in particular - were required to supply their own clothes for the character - which is why, amongst other reasons, watching Cary Grant is useful) each piece of clothing is chosen by wardrobe/director to give meaning in context. Sometimes it will undercut dialogue and present a counterpoint and contribute to ambiguity in others it will be consistent and reinforce the dialogue and narrative drive and curve.
Its a long while since I watched CO The film.
But with a quick look at the snap above you can see a lot of contradictions - bowler hats are a symbol of London City Financial,and Guards, wear although originally a working class rural hat, braces - high waisted pants, violent blokes but drinking milk......
Fxh excellent analysis!
I heard an interview on ABC radio not to long ago, apparently the cast of Rake have to supply their own wears, l may be mistaken! I'm sure Richard Roxburgh would be accomodated however.post #20133 of 6137910/30/12 at 11:00pmpost #20134 of 6137910/30/12 at 11:07pmWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)Quote:Originally Posted by fxh
yeah thats the general thrust of what I'm on about.
Hard isn't just about contrast - all black always looks hard, funnily enough stark arctic white is always hard too. Off whites not so much.
Theres nothing intrinsically wrong with a hard look - if thats what you are after - but its generally an unapproachable look and doesn't invite people in. You have to work hard personally, and you can, to over come the overall effect of hard and repelling. (I'm thinking here of Horney's 3 basic modes Towards, Against, Away). Some people look inviting naturally, build, stance, face, colouring, eyes etc and they can dress hard and convey different meanings, others look hard and need to dress softer to convey humanity.
I used to be told I had dark penetrating,scary eyes that, combined with black hair and a swarthy appearance, put people off, (especially when I wore,shades black leather jacket on black jeans and black leather boots!), now thats alright if you want to put people off, or going to a gig at a sticky carpet pub, but , at least these days, I rarely want to push people away. I was most dramatically made aware of it some years ago when a well known feminist commented on a loose knitted grey woollen jumper I was wearing made her see/regard me as a different more approachable, less hard person, more trustworthy.
It all depends on context - I also love a hard look at times - especially in business city dress - and if its a group where everyone knows you well then it just looks pretty damn smart. If however you are meeting with a group for the first time you need to consider how you want to be seen and responded to. Sometimes if I'm representing an organisation, say up on stage giving a speech or presentation, handing out prizes, depending on the context, then the full hard rig is just right - it lend an air of responsibility, representing others NOT just myself, fiduciary duty, care, respect for the occasion, and so on.
My issue is people don't think about it enough and explore options.
In this respect I have long been influenced by the general thrust of what Goffman says.
Its also part of my trying to understand what might be an Australian approach to menswear (outside of the Billabong/Ripcurl/ Dads jeans/ t shirt / "I must be comfortable" aesthetic.
Very good points - you've obviously given this a bit of thought.
And half the forum will be Googling "Goffman"
I think you are certainly onto something with how the dichotomies which apply to understanding, say, British dress cannot be fully applied to our context - I think one reason is the relative absence of an historical, rigid class system here. The City/Country thing was always a way of viewing the different faces of an English upper class lifestyle. Here the upper classes go out of their way to look like the plebs that make them rich (the wolves in sheep's clothing). They are also far more widely despised, even by their peers. This is true but to a lesser extent in the US.
Therefore the act of putting care into your appearance communicates something entirely different here than it does in the UK. There you would be seen as well heeled (clothing related idiom) and possibly well bred (a good thing). Here you risk being labelled as a "wanker" or gay or some other pejorative term. Hence the desire to dress is necessarily coupled with the need to appear approachable and egalitarian... "soft" as opposed to hard.
Having said all that, I don't think city/country is really applicable to the UK anymore either - it might have been in old England, but not today - they're almost as bolshie as we are.post #20135 of 6137910/30/12 at 11:12pmpost #20136 of 6137910/31/12 at 12:07amI've decided to have a "button down" week, so I've been wearing OCBD shirts for the past few days.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
- Blue, herringbone-weave jacket by Herringbone, with waist patch pockets;
- Blue and white university stripe OCBD by Uniqlo;
- RL Polo paisley bow tie;
- Herringbone silk pocket square, light blue with white edges;
- Herringbone grey trousers in a light, flannel cloth; and
- Salvatore Ferragamo "Tramezza" chukka boots.post #20137 of 6137910/31/12 at 12:34ampost #20138 of 6137910/31/12 at 12:45ampost #20139 of 6137910/31/12 at 1:11ampost #20140 of 6137910/31/12 at 1:25ampost #20141 of 6137910/31/12 at 3:31amJust in case anyone is looking for a pair of slippers (I must be getting old), these are excellent.
I've been wearing them for a few days now and they are ultra comfortable, not too warm for the aus climate (I wouldn't wear fleece lined slippers here) and hold up well/look OK for a quick run down to the shops.
LLBean customer service is also fantastic - they sent me a size 11 which was much too big and I complained that their sizing advice on their online chat had been misleading. They sent me a brand new size 10 pair and told me to keep the size 11.post #20142 of 6137910/31/12 at 3:38ampost #20143 of 6137910/31/12 at 3:42ampost #20144 of 6137910/31/12 at 3:55ampost #20145 of 6137910/31/12 at 4:02am
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