I noticed some people mentioning PJ and weight loss above.
My weight bounces around a fair bit, across a range of about 78-83kg. Do you think this is something PJ can accommodate, or would it just result in an ill-fitting suit?
(I also need them to disguise my shoulder misalignment but they've already assured me on that score).
I recall reading somewhere that if the cutter is proficient, a 4kg tolerance either side of a given weight will not affect the fit. Pehaps being fitted when you weigh 80-81kgs would be optimal? This could be just mystical iGent nonsense, you should shoot PJ an email.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here's a further twist: apparently, R it depends on the actual cloth in question. Oxfords and twills crumple less easily than poplins. Linens are made to crease. That said, I have two shirts - one in 2-ply 100 poplin from Classic Shirtings, and the other in 2-ply 80 poplin from Alumo - that hold their shape superbly... Just depends on the SPECIFIC fabric in question.
Nor is a shirt made from 2 x 100s cloth guaranteed to be good,This is at least partially due to the weave of the cloth - is the shirt made from a twill, from a poplin, from a pinpoint oxford, a royal oxford, a plain oxford or some other weave?
Also, just like "Super" numbers and suit fabric, just because a shirting fabric has a higher number, doesn't mean that it is a better choice. Higher thread count numbers can sometimes mean that a fabric is too sheer, too prone to crumpling, and difficult to iron, just like a suit fabric with a high "Super" number can crease and crumple badly, and wear out quickly as it is fragile.
Ultimately, pretty much any cloth from a reputable shirting cloth manufacturer such as Acorn, Albini, Sic TESS, Grandi
2 great posts. Thanks for the info regarding shirts and shirting fabrics. I learn more on this forum than I would from most SA or even relatives.
When there are so many shirting suppliers out there, it is hard not to rely on superficial marketing like 'Egyptian cotton'. Or to use a 2x100 ply as a standard measure.
I currently have a 2x80 Ply shirt and it just isn't thick enough. I would like the fabric to be 'denser' and more rigid.
What I am tossing up bettwen is:
- CT shirts at $45 a pop.
- MJ Bale shirts $48 a pop.
- Luxire shirts $60-$120 a pop.
- Rhodes and Beckett shirts $125 a pop.
- O&J $160 a pop.
- Herringbone shirts $180 a pop.
I am having real difficult tossing up between the first 4.
This white shirt from Luxire just seems too good to beat.
http://custom.luxire.com/collections/whites/products/lusterous-fine-white Whether it is MTM or just the standard OTR size. 2x140, Zambiata (what ever the fuck that means) and MOP buttons.
I should take some photos in a shirt and get you guys to comment on fit.
If you decide to go with Luxire, get the cheapest option available first so you can dial in the measurements. The first one or two shirts are never perfect; this is the nature of online MTM.