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post #19471 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennier View Post

That's great! I might have to get serious about trying one. So far Herringbone Osaka cut are the only OTR jackets I've found that fit me decently, and they're just overpriced when not on sale I believe. And I've yet to see anything decent on sale. So given it appears that MJB have a very similar cut in their line-up they're sounding like a good option. I'll have to grit my teeth and set foot in DJ again and check them out.. :-)

Not for too long mate, they're opening up shop on Collins St from next month I believe. Their 2 for $1000 is a steal.

That said, your PJohnson stuff looks fantastic!
post #19472 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobiasj View Post

Anyone remember my friend, the one who was going to buy a Hugo Boss suit for his wedding for $1,400? Well he showed me his suit yesterday--navy cotton from MJ Bale for $1,000 less. It looked great. So happy smile.gif
MJ Bale are now my default suit recommendation. They really don't have much competition, imo...

Ah you must have been very satisfied. It's just the slightly too narrow lapels that keep me away from MJ Bale.

post #19473 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by DartagnanRed View Post

It's just the slightly too narrow lapels that keep me away from MJ Bale.

I feel exactly the same way, but then I think that at 2 for $1000, it's a great deal, particularly for people building a suiting wardrobe early in their career.
post #19474 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Brogues View Post

 

Here you go Bunny Boy icon_gu_b_slayer%5B1%5D.gif

Wow just saw these at work; here's hoping that's actually you :P

P.S. Fuk it; since we have chainstitch denim alterations here now I'm gonna go blind and order a pair of the straight 3 sixteens from selfeldge I'll probably go a 33 or 34 since I'm looking for a 'looser' pair with a highrise. Wish me Luck :)

post #19475 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

I spent a while typing up a response about "Egyptian cotton" shirting last night, only for it to disappear when I tried to post it and I now see that fxh, Plestor and others have chimed in with thoughts in the meantime.
Essentially, I agree with what has already been said - just because a shirt is supposedly made from Egyptian cotton does not mean that the cotton was grown in Egypt, nor that it is any more special than other cotton shirts.
Nor is a shirt made from 2 x 100s cloth guaranteed to be good, just as a suit made from "Super 180s" cloth is not necessarily going to be a great suit - even amongst cloth of the same thread count, there are variations in quality, heft and general feel. This is at least partially due to the weave of the cloth - is the shirt made from a twill, from a poplin, from a pinpoint oxford, a royal oxford, a plain oxford or some other weave?
Also, just like "Super" numbers and suit fabric, just because a shirting fabric has a higher number, doesn't mean that it is a better choice. Higher thread count numbers can sometimes mean that a fabric is too sheer, too prone to crumpling, and difficult to iron, just like a suit fabric with a high "Super" number can crease and crumple badly, and wear out quickly as it is fragile.
Ultimately, pretty much any cloth from a reputable shirting cloth manufacturer such as Acorn, Albini, Sic TESS, Grandi & Rubinelli or Thomas Mason will be good, and it then depends on your own preferences as to whether you prefer a shirt made from poplin, twill or so on.
With regard to Rhodes & Beckett, please don't get caught up in their backstory about two English adventurers who decided to set up a shirtmaking operation in Egypt in the 1800s, as it is an absolute load of cobblers. When the then-Harrolds Shirts turned in Rhodes & Beckett a few years back, they came up with a faux-backstory that suited their operation as (apparently) their shirts were made in Egypt. Rather amusingly, they then changed production to China a year or two later and when a friend of mine enquired as to why, he was told that it was because Chinese suppliers were more reliable than Egyptian suppliers.

Here's a further twist: apparently, R&B is now owned by Van Laack, the same clothing giant that owns Herringbone.

Re- Shirting fabrics: If you have the chance, the best font of knowledge to consult (here in Sydney) is Charles Nakhle out at Parramatta. As you might have gleaned by now, he is a Master Shirtmaker of the highest level who deals primarily with fabrics such as the one you've mentioned.

Personally, I can attest to the superb quality of shirting fabrics from Acron, Classic English Shirtings, Thomas Mason, Sic Tess and Alumo. Among these, Sic Tess is my go-to. May be a but more pricey, but the product is unmatched.

Super numbers may or may not mean anything; it depends on the actual cloth in question. Oxfords and twills crumple less easily than poplins. Linens are made to crease. That said, I have two shirts - one in 2-ply 100 poplin from Classic Shirtings, and the other in 2-ply 80 poplin from Alumo - that hold their shape superbly... Just depends on the SPECIFIC fabric in question.
post #19476 of 57125
post #19477 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny 

Wow just saw these at work; here's hoping that's actually you

 

These kicks are the real deal this time man! They are not a SF desirable (To Boot - Adam Deryck), and l'm not sure if they're good year welted, however they will get me over the line till my next purchase, hopefully a pair Carmina's in the "Simpson" last......

post #19478 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by TehBunny View Post

Wow just saw these at work; here's hoping that's actually you :P

P.S. Fuk it; since we have chainstitch denim alterations here now I'm gonna go blind and order a pair of the straight 3 sixteens from selfeldge I'll probably go a 33 or 34 since I'm looking for a 'looser' pair with a highrise. Wish me Luck :)

ill be interested in how they turn out.. im really keen to try 3-sixteen for fit/size. Sometimes the back pockets look a tad too low for my personal style

Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post


3-roll-2?

nah - i grabbed one jacket in 3/2 and 1/4 lining but i prefer the fit of the straight 2 button and 1/2 lining

post #19479 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrownman View Post

Not for too long mate, they're opening up shop on Collins St from next month I believe. Their 2 for $1000 is a steal.
That said, your PJohnson stuff looks fantastic!

Thanks TBM! I'd heard MJB were opening a store but didn't realise it was that close. Hard to go past the results and the overall experience of commissioning from PJ, but it would be nice to be able to get less expensive beater suits that fitted half decently!
post #19480 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redacre View Post

Thought so. I'm a bit wary of the online MTM sites though, heard a few horror stories. Am I being unnecessarily cautious?
$1500 is my upper limit, any ideas? I have read (from unreliable internet sources) that P Johnson starts around this mark.

P Johnson starts lower (around $1300).

$1500 or so is usually for the hand-finished option.
post #19481 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pink Socks View Post

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/695-CROCKETT-JONES-Cognac-Cap-Toe-Balmoral-SHOES-9-5-D-/230869355768?pt=US_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item35c0e2ccf8#ht_3862wt_973
These might interest one of your small footed souls (or should that be soles?).

They look nice. I would love to buy them, but I'm in trouble from the better half after buying two pairs in two weeks shog[1].gif

post #19482 of 57125
I noticed some people mentioning PJ and weight loss above.

My weight bounces around a fair bit, across a range of about 78-83kg. Do you think this is something PJ can accommodate, or would it just result in an ill-fitting suit?

(I also need them to disguise my shoulder misalignment but they've already assured me on that score).
post #19483 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post


Here's a further twist: apparently, R&B is now owned by Van Laack, the same clothing giant that owns Herringbone.
Re- Shirting fabrics: If you have the chance, the best font of knowledge to consult (here in Sydney) is Charles Nakhle out at Parramatta. As you might have gleaned by now, he is a Master Shirtmaker of the highest level who deals primarily with fabrics such as the one you've mentioned.
Personally, I can attest to the superb quality of shirting fabrics from Acron, Classic English Shirtings, Thomas Mason, Sic Tess and Alumo. Among these, Sic Tess is my go-to. May be a but more pricey, but the product is unmatched.
Super numbers may or may not mean anything; it depends on the actual cloth in question. Oxfords and twills crumple less easily than poplins. Linens are made to crease. That said, I have two shirts - one in 2-ply 100 poplin from Classic Shirtings, and the other in 2-ply 80 poplin from Alumo - that hold their shape superbly... Just depends on the SPECIFIC fabric in question.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post


Nor is a shirt made from 2 x 100s cloth guaranteed to be good,This is at least partially due to the weave of the cloth - is the shirt made from a twill, from a poplin, from a pinpoint oxford, a royal oxford, a plain oxford or some other weave?
Also, just like "Super" numbers and suit fabric, just because a shirting fabric has a higher number, doesn't mean that it is a better choice. Higher thread count numbers can sometimes mean that a fabric is too sheer, too prone to crumpling, and difficult to iron, just like a suit fabric with a high "Super" number can crease and crumple badly, and wear out quickly as it is fragile.
Ultimately, pretty much any cloth from a reputable shirting cloth manufacturer such as Acorn, Albini, Sic TESS, Grandi & Rubinelli or Thomas Mason will be good, and it then depends on your own preferences as to whether you prefer a shirt made from poplin, twill or so on.
 

 

2 great posts. Thanks for the info regarding shirts and shirting fabrics. I learn more on this forum than I would from most SA or even relatives.

When there are so many shirting suppliers out there, it is hard not to rely on superficial marketing like 'Egyptian cotton'. Or to use a 2x100 ply as a standard measure.

I currently have a 2x80 Ply shirt and it just isn't thick enough. I would like the fabric to be 'denser' and more rigid.

 

What I am tossing up bettwen is:

- CT shirts at $45 a pop.

- MJ Bale shirts $48 a pop.

- Luxire shirts $60-$120 a pop.

- Rhodes and Beckett shirts $125 a pop.

- O&J $160 a pop.

- Herringbone shirts $180 a pop.

 

I am having real difficult tossing up between the first 4.

 

This white shirt from Luxire just seems too good to beat.

http://custom.luxire.com/collections/whites/products/lusterous-fine-white Whether it is MTM or just the standard OTR size. 2x140, Zambiata (what ever the fuck that means) and MOP buttons.

 

I should take some photos in a shirt and get you guys to comment on fit.

post #19484 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

I noticed some people mentioning PJ and weight loss above.

My weight bounces around a fair bit, across a range of about 78-83kg. Do you think this is something PJ can accommodate, or would it just result in an ill-fitting suit?

(I also need them to disguise my shoulder misalignment but they've already assured me on that score).

I recall reading somewhere that if the cutter is proficient, a 4kg tolerance either side of a given weight will not affect the fit. Pehaps being fitted when you weigh 80-81kgs would be optimal? This could be just mystical iGent nonsense, you should shoot PJ an email.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

Here's a further twist: apparently, R it depends on the actual cloth in question. Oxfords and twills crumple less easily than poplins. Linens are made to crease. That said, I have two shirts - one in 2-ply 100 poplin from Classic Shirtings, and the other in 2-ply 80 poplin from Alumo - that hold their shape superbly... Just depends on the SPECIFIC fabric in question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Nor is a shirt made from 2 x 100s cloth guaranteed to be good,This is at least partially due to the weave of the cloth - is the shirt made from a twill, from a poplin, from a pinpoint oxford, a royal oxford, a plain oxford or some other weave?

Also, just like "Super" numbers and suit fabric, just because a shirting fabric has a higher number, doesn't mean that it is a better choice. Higher thread count numbers can sometimes mean that a fabric is too sheer, too prone to crumpling, and difficult to iron, just like a suit fabric with a high "Super" number can crease and crumple badly, and wear out quickly as it is fragile.

Ultimately, pretty much any cloth from a reputable shirting cloth manufacturer such as Acorn, Albini, Sic TESS, Grandi

2 great posts. Thanks for the info regarding shirts and shirting fabrics. I learn more on this forum than I would from most SA or even relatives.
When there are so many shirting suppliers out there, it is hard not to rely on superficial marketing like 'Egyptian cotton'. Or to use a 2x100 ply as a standard measure.
I currently have a 2x80 Ply shirt and it just isn't thick enough. I would like the fabric to be 'denser' and more rigid.

What I am tossing up bettwen is:
- CT shirts at $45 a pop.
- MJ Bale shirts $48 a pop.
- Luxire shirts $60-$120 a pop.
- Rhodes and Beckett shirts $125 a pop.
- O&J $160 a pop.
- Herringbone shirts $180 a pop.

I am having real difficult tossing up between the first 4.

This white shirt from Luxire just seems too good to beat.
http://custom.luxire.com/collections/whites/products/lusterous-fine-white Whether it is MTM or just the standard OTR size. 2x140, Zambiata (what ever the fuck that means) and MOP buttons.

I should take some photos in a shirt and get you guys to comment on fit.

If you decide to go with Luxire, get the cheapest option available first so you can dial in the measurements. The first one or two shirts are never perfect; this is the nature of online MTM.
post #19485 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post


What I am tossing up between is:
- CT shirts at $45 a pop.
- MJ Bale shirts $48 a pop.
- Luxire shirts $60-$120 a pop.
- Rhodes and Beckett shirts $125 a pop.
- O&J $160 a pop.
- Herringbone shirts $180 a pop.

I am having real difficult tossing up between the first 4.

This white shirt from Luxire just seems too good to beat.
http://custom.luxire.com/collections/whites/products/lusterous-fine-white Whether it is MTM or just the standard OTR size. 2x140, Zambiata (what ever the fuck that means) and MOP buttons.

Michael,

Ultimately, the best shirt for you will be whichever you feel fits you best, in the style that you prefer, at a price that you are willing to pay.

As an example, a colleague of mine only wears Rhodes & Beckett shirts as they fit his body shape very well and he likes the collar style and the colours. Therefore, even though it's possible to get other shirts more cheaply, he has no interest in trying as he's found his sweet spot - a shirt that fits well in a style that he likes, at a price that he's willing to pay.

Of course, deciding just what style you do actually like can take a bit of refining, and can also change over time. I used to like cutaway collars and French cuffs, but now I gravitate more towards either wide spread, or button-down collars and button cuffs.

I've had shirts from both Charles Tyrwhitt and Rhodes and Beckett in the past, and I find that the collars are a bit too hard or stiff for my tastes - I prefer a softer, unfused collar. However, that's purely a personal preference and some people like stiffer collars, particularly as they tend to stand up more when unbuttoned.

Just to throw another RTW name into the mix, you could have a look at TM Lewin, too. They're often viewed as being very similar to Charles Tyrwhitt, although some people say that their shirts are slightly better. I've never had a TM Lewin shirt, so I can't comment personally. I think that they now have a store in Sydney as well as shirts in DJs, so you could actually head along and have a look at the TM Lewin store, as well as looking at their website.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Sy View Post

I currently have a 2x80 Ply shirt and it just isn't thick enough. I would like the fabric to be 'denser' and more rigid.

As has been noted above, there are several different factors that influence the way a fabric feels, but in general, the higher the thread count (2 x 100s, 2 x 120s etc), the finer and softer the fabric will feel, particularly in a poplin.

If you want a fabric that feels denser and more rigid, you might prefer a different weave, such as an oxford or a twill. Don't forget that, in addition to the classic oxford weave, there are also variants such as pinpoint oxford and royal oxford which can look dressier than a standard oxford cloth shirt. A white, or a light blue pinpoint oxford shirt can make an excellent dress shirt. I think that the best thing to do is to probably go and try on as many shirts as possible in lots of different types of fabric so as to see what you like most!
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