Good point re buttons did not think of that.
Does anyone have any general advice on fused v un-fused in specific collar types? Ie does fused work better for, say, a wide cutaway? or is it all personal preference?
Never been in a position to choose! My first MTM shirt had unfused collar and cuffs which I loved, but I'm not sure that it would have enough hold and shape for some collar types ie a curved cutaway.
Lachy, I think that it all comes down to personal preference.
I have some quite wide, cutaway collars by Borrelli and Barba, and they have very light interlining but are also fused. The collars are wonderfully springy and flexible and have a lovely shape and curve to them.
On the other hand, I have some cutaway, unfused collars by H&K and also by Deer Style. The H&K interlining is thicker, but not stiff, so the collars are still quite soft. The Deer Style collars have thinner interlining and are nicely springy and flexible.
On balance, I'd always tend to choose a lighter/thinner interlining over a thicker interlining as, in my experience, having a thicker but softer interlining such as H&K uses is the exception, rather than the rule, and most thicker interlining material is stiff and lifeless and so the collar neither looks nor feels very nice.