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Australian Members - Page 1185

post #17761 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

Anyone feeling brave? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Saw these in an op shop today for $25. Probably a US size. Look to be in VGC although there was one black mark on the side might need a little work. Not sure if these are genuine Church, as I've not seen this label before. It reads "Handmade. Made exclusively for Church's shoes. New York. Beverley Hills". The Church's lettering looks like the regular logo.
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If anyone's keen I can try to grab them for you next week some time.

 

 

 

i have a self imposed ban of splurging on clothes. using every ounce of my willpower to stop myself from buying these!

post #17762 of 53439
Oh go on sliq. Get in quick, before everybody has a pair.
post #17763 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHECKstar View Post

Hypothetically even if KW and PJ shared the same manufacturer, their finished product will still be worlds apart because of the patterns used.
As far as I know, PJ own their own patterns which they designed and are consistently researching ways to improve (for instance, I know they are working on adding a function to adjust for shoulder pitch). Given that PJ himself is trained as a tailor in London, I would imagine that regardless of the manufacturer, his patterns are based on his interpenetration or spin on the classic suit. If they chose to change manufacturer, apart from initial teething issues, I am sure they could get a consistent end product elsewhere because PJ owns the patterns and can take it with them. As far as I know, KW is not trained as a tailor and even if he did use the same manufacturer as PJ, I would question where he is getting his patter from; it could be something original or an off-the-shelf pattern provided by the manufacturer - who really knows (its all just innuendo and speculation at this stage).



Hmmm that makes sense.

Its just that the funny thing I notice is that with the Chinese made suits, the waist suppression never seem quite smooth enough.
post #17764 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by quar View Post

The workshop which makes the PJ Product definitely make for other MTM-Operations. But the KW stuff is made in China, so definitely not the same workshop.
Here is an example - http://jeharveykelly.com/

 

FWIW he is associated with P Johnson - they always in the same pitti pics :P

post #17765 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by blahman View Post

Hmmm that makes sense.
Its just that the funny thing I notice is that with the Chinese made suits, the waist suppression never seem quite smooth enough.

Forgive me for saying this - but to generalize 'Chinese made suits' not having 'smooth enough waist suppression' is just like saying 'Indian only eat curry' or other similar, somewhat crude generalization.

Just like any other countries, factories in china are capable of making good and bad suits, simple as that. Different factories will have different capabilities and aim to service different market segments. This has been well documented by members such as Jefferyd who is a leading industry expert.

I don't mean no disrespect and don't mean to offend anyone. I am a big fan of Pjohnson and in truly think these guys have developed the right formula. Personally I could not care less whether the suits are made in china or Saudi Arabia as long as it fits and looks good.

And boy, do they look good!

Thanks for listening, getting off my soap box...
post #17766 of 53439
maybe Blahman was referring to made to measure suits produced in China? If he was, then I agree with him from personal experience. However nothing to get up in arms about.
post #17767 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof. B. Bear View Post

maybe Blahman was referring to made to measure suits produced in China? If he was, then I agree with him from personal experience. However nothing to get up in arms about.

Yes - I certainly am not some defender or guardian of the Chinese manufacturing industry smile.gif just making a small point.

Moving on...
post #17768 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwarfer View Post

... 'Chinese made suits' not having 'smooth enough waist suppression' is just like saying 'Indian only eat curry' or other similar, somewhat crude generalization ...

 

No it isn't. Those two examples are not similar at all.
 

post #17769 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmills View Post

No it isn't. Those two examples are not similar at all.

 
JMILLS not watching the game?
post #17770 of 53439

Half time.
 

post #17771 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHECKstar View Post

Hypothetically even if KW and PJ shared the same manufacturer, their finished product will still be worlds apart because of the patterns used.
As far as I know, PJ own their own patterns which they designed and are consistently researching ways to improve (for instance, I know they are working on adding a function to adjust for shoulder pitch). Given that PJ himself is trained as a tailor in London, I would imagine that regardless of the manufacturer, his patterns are based on his interpenetration or spin on the classic suit. If they chose to change manufacturer, apart from initial teething issues, I am sure they could get a consistent end product elsewhere because PJ owns the patterns and can take it with them. As far as I know, KW is not trained as a tailor and even if he did use the same manufacturer as PJ, I would question where he is getting his patter from; it could be something original or an off-the-shelf pattern provided by the manufacturer - who really knows (its all just innuendo and speculation at this stage).

My understanding is that PJ have employed an already existing MTM system. They (or he) did not develop it. Having said that, the degree of fit-customisation is vast in my experience. Options such as raising arm-holes, and tapering sleeves, are not available in MTM systems offered by EZ Su Misura for example. If you talk to an expert such as jefferyd, he will explain that MTM systems are complex, and developing a proprietary system is no easy task. I would be highly surprised if PJ "own" the system they are using (as you are implying). I would be highly surprised also if there was any drafting of patterns personally by PJ. I'd imagine the Block Size you wear, along with all the numbers for adjustment are sent to the workshop / factory, and out comes your suit (after drafting of your pattern on-site).

And I assume that you are using the term "trained as a tailor" loosely. PJ describes being taught by Robert Emmett, who is a shirtmaker. I don't know that he has the tailoring pedigree that some people assume. Maybe he does. Maybe I am wrong. I'm not attempting to bring them down. I am an existing (and continuing) customer. I think they are great guys. I think they offer a great product, at a great price. I've referred many of my friends. We do seem to put them on a pedestal here in the Australian Members thread however.
post #17772 of 53439
Hey guys just wondering if anyone knows of any well priced tailors in Melbourne who can do simple things like tapering and hemming pants (Including jeans and chinos) reasonably well?

From a quick search of this thread I've found that Katrina's is a good option? What sort of prices are there for basic pant alterations?
post #17773 of 53439
Bow Ties? had a look at BB and Le Noeud Papillon not overly impressed with what I saw any recommendations?
post #17774 of 53439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey Firmin View Post

Bow Ties? had a look at BB and Le Noeud Papillon not overly impressed with what I saw any recommendations?

 

if you can find a vintage Sulka, it'll be worth the wait and effort  :D

post #17775 of 53439
has anyone here had experience with "Mikhail Zenon"?
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