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Australian Members - Page 1100

post #16486 of 57125
Peak lapels on dark gray:

http://ethandesu.com/post/4460022233
post #16487 of 57125
And again:

http://ethandesu.com/post/4427580273/patrickjohnsontailors-the-peak-lapel-for-ean
post #16488 of 57125
I prefer peak lapels on double breasted suits only (except in the case of dinner jackets), although they seem to be really popular on single breasted jackets right now again.
Edited by TheWraith - 8/12/12 at 10:07pm
post #16489 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

Peak lapels on dark gray:
http://ethandesu.com/post/4460022233

T o my eye they work best on dark grey for some reason.

Then there is the big small issues - should the peak be parallel to shoulder or slant up wards or downwards?

No gap/notch at all, small notch/gap, large, fishmouth?
post #16490 of 57125
Notches or not?
post #16491 of 57125

I prefer no notches like this: http://ethandesu.com/post/4460022233

post #16492 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Notches or not?

Personally, I'd still prefer notch-lapels on an SB suit, but if I had to do peaks on an SB, I would go with either no gap, or very little gap.

This, to my eye, looks neater and features a more prominent peak.
post #16493 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Hardy Amies was against peak lapels on a single breasted jacket - or as he, and many of the English still refer to "double breasted revers"

Side note was reading about Hardy Amies work as spy master running resistance agents in Belgium during WW2. Wikipedia has this quote from his CO as SOE "This officer is far tougher both physically and mentally than his rather precious appearance would suggest. He possesses a keen brain and an abundance of shrewd sense. His only handicap is his precious appearance and manner, and these are tending to decrease."
post #16494 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

I prefer no notches like this: http://ethandesu.com/post/4460022233

One reason to go Notch, is that the P Johnson Wide Peak Lapel has a very low gorge, and is very aggressive looking. Their standard Peak Lapel is otherwise too narrow.
post #16495 of 57125
Quote:
Men! We're being Reformed- says PETER GOLDING
The Argus. Melbourne, Vic. Thursday 31 March 1955


IN a ninth floor office of the Australian Wool Bureau, from the window of which one may gaze out on the scenic splendor of the Queen's Bridge roundabout, the railway yards and multitude of advertising signs, a dark plot is being hatched against the Australian male.

And, I assure you, this is no minor matter to be shrugged off as one would a parking blitz or a bottled beer shortage. This is desperately serious. For in that office they're scheming to remove the last of man's freedoms. They're going to make him dress properly.

Perpetrator of this crime against his fellow man is one. Eric Foster, director of the' just-established Men’s Wear Style Promotion Council; himself a perfect advertisement for what he hopes to do.
“This week, feeling a trifle self-conscious in case my socks or tie didn't quite tone with my suit, I went along to 416 Collins St. to talk to Mr. Foster.' '
Men's fashion

I FOUND him remarkably frank. Indeed, he didn't seem to be the slightest bit ashamed of what he was about to do to me and the other three million males around the place.

The Menswear Style Promotion Council Mr. Foster explained, had been set up by the Wool Bureau, of which he was an executive, to try and make Australian men more fashion conscious.
"Don't think-this is some campaign to make men spend a lot of money on clothes," he said. "It isn't.
Don't think we are-going to try to convince Australian men that they should go to business in bowlers and spats. We aren't.
"The whole emphasis will be on correct dressing – in -other words, wearing the right clothes for the right occasion.
Shrieking tie!
'HE well-dressed man doesn’t have to have a wardrobe full of suits to look well groomed. He can get by with two-as long as he' looks after them and knows what to wear with them.
Mr. Foster said it was remarkable that, although Australian women were among the best-dressed and most clothes-conscious in the world, Australian men, generally, were not. "It seems extraordinary lo me that women don't insist that their men turn out better," he went on. "How many times do you see a beautifully dressed bride leaving a church on the arm of a man whose suit or tie fairly shrieks at you?
"How many times do you see otherwise well-dressed men wearing brown shoes with a blue suit? "Women are most meticulous in their selection of accessories, yet they seem to ignore them in a man."

Mr. Foster said the council, with the full support of the clothing Industry, planned an intense campaign throughout Australia to break down this apathy to men's dress. The campaign would Include :
Widespread advertising and, distribution of literature to teach men what they should wear;
Annual men's wear conventions at which the industry would compare notes and ideas on fashion trends here and overseas; and regular men's fashion parades.
The Men's Wear Style Promotion Council, through the Wool Bureau offices throughout the world, will keep the clothing industry continually supplied with Information on, fashion trends in Britain, America, and Europe.

Ideal suit
This will be discussed at the annual conventions when the industry will lay down what the well-dressed male will wear the following seasons.. It seems to me that there is one further step which the council might take while it is giving the Australian male the sartorial treatment. In every other country men’s fashions have special characteristics, but here we have yet to design a suit which is ideal for Australians and Australian conditions. Why not an Australia, wide competition to design the perfect suit for local, conditions?

Such a competition would have all sorts of possibilities - special . ' zips on the sleeves, for instance, so that they could be rolled up while you are , rescuing your change at five to six, or a special Inside pocket to carry owner-onus summonses.

Style hints
BUT seriously, .it IS worth thinking about because, as Mr. Foster says, neither the English nor the American styles fully meet our local requirements. Probably the ideal style is something in between.

FOOTNOTE: Latest trend in men's fashions ls to dark materials-charcoals, blacks, dark greys, browns, either' plain or relieved by flecks of pink, hello, white, pale blue, or gold. Emphasis is on the natural figure (built-in muscles are out) and single breasted suits.'

And, finally a hint: Never wear the same suit on successive days (the material needs a day to recover from, fatigue) and brush it well after using. If it is creased, hang it up in the bathroom while you are showering -r the steam will help a lot.
post #16496 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

Quote:
Men! We're being Reformed- says PETER GOLDING
The Argus. Melbourne, Vic. Thursday 31 March 1955
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IN a ninth floor office of the Australian Wool Bureau, from the window of which one may gaze out on the scenic splendor of the Queen's Bridge roundabout, the railway yards and multitude of advertising signs, a dark plot is being hatched against the Australian male.

And, I assure you, this is no minor matter to be shrugged off as one would a parking blitz or a bottled beer shortage. This is desperately serious. For in that office they're scheming to remove the last of man's freedoms. They're going to make him dress properly.

Perpetrator of this crime against his fellow man is one. Eric Foster, director of the' just-established Men’s Wear Style Promotion Council; himself a perfect advertisement for what he hopes to do.
“This week, feeling a trifle self-conscious in case my socks or tie didn't quite tone with my suit, I went along to 416 Collins St. to talk to Mr. Foster.' '
Men's fashion

I FOUND him remarkably frank. Indeed, he didn't seem to be the slightest bit ashamed of what he was about to do to me and the other three million males around the place.

The Menswear Style Promotion Council Mr. Foster explained, had been set up by the Wool Bureau, of which he was an executive, to try and make Australian men more fashion conscious.
"Don't think-this is some campaign to make men spend a lot of money on clothes," he said. "It isn't.
Don't think we are-going to try to convince Australian men that they should go to business in bowlers and spats. We aren't.
"The whole emphasis will be on correct dressing – in -other words, wearing the right clothes for the right occasion.
Shrieking tie!
'HE well-dressed man doesn’t have to have a wardrobe full of suits to look well groomed. He can get by with two-as long as he' looks after them and knows what to wear with them.
Mr. Foster said it was remarkable that, although Australian women were among the best-dressed and most clothes-conscious in the world, Australian men, generally, were not. "It seems extraordinary lo me that women don't insist that their men turn out better," he went on. "How many times do you see a beautifully dressed bride leaving a church on the arm of a man whose suit or tie fairly shrieks at you?
"How many times do you see otherwise well-dressed men wearing brown shoes with a blue suit? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
"Women are most meticulous in their selection of accessories, yet they seem to ignore them in a man."

Mr. Foster said the council, with the full support of the clothing Industry, planned an intense campaign throughout Australia to break down this apathy to men's dress. The campaign would Include :
Widespread advertising and, distribution of literature to teach men what they should wear;
Annual men's wear conventions at which the industry would compare notes and ideas on fashion trends here and overseas; and regular men's fashion parades.
The Men's Wear Style Promotion Council, through the Wool Bureau offices throughout the world, will keep the clothing industry continually supplied with Information on, fashion trends in Britain, America, and Europe.

Ideal suit
This will be discussed at the annual conventions when the industry will lay down what the well-dressed male will wear the following seasons.. It seems to me that there is one further step which the council might take while it is giving the Australian male the sartorial treatment. In every other country men’s fashions have special characteristics, but here we have yet to design a suit which is ideal for Australians and Australian conditions. Why not an Australia, wide competition to design the perfect suit for local, conditions?

Such a competition would have all sorts of possibilities - special . ' zips on the sleeves, for instance, so that they could be rolled up while you are , rescuing your change at five to six, or a special Inside pocket to carry owner-onus summonses.

Style hints
BUT seriously, .it IS worth thinking about because, as Mr. Foster says, neither the English nor the American styles fully meet our local requirements. Probably the ideal style is something in between.

FOOTNOTE: Latest trend in men's fashions ls to dark materials-charcoals, blacks, dark greys, browns, either' plain or relieved by flecks of pink, hello, white, pale blue, or gold. Emphasis is on the natural figure (built-in muscles are out) and single breasted suits.'

And, finally a hint: Never wear the same suit on successive days (the material needs a day to recover from, fatigue) and brush it well after using. If it is creased, hang it up in the bathroom while you are showering -r the steam will help a lot.

Fuck this guy. I enjoy black shoes with Navy, but this man goes too far.
post #16497 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naka View Post


Fuck this guy. I enjoy black shoes with Navy, but this man goes too far.

 

Maybe he was misquoted and it should have been ""How many times do you see otherwise well-dressed men wearing brown shoes with a blue black suit?".

post #16498 of 57125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Maybe he was misquoted and it should have been ""How many times do you see otherwise well-dressed men 
wearing brown shoes with a blue black suit
?
".

Mr Foster probably never went to Italy :-)
post #16499 of 57125
Gerry your latest PJohnson has inspired me to get a summer linen suit in the same colour. At the present I'm hoping it will look like this, but in your colour blue;

Thank you Mr. Tax Refund.

lHQAQ.jpg
post #16500 of 57125
Prof Bear - will you be budgeting for socks?
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