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post #16441 of 57963

Interesting discussion. With the first suit, I wanted something to replace the ill fitting navy suit I had and with Tom's recommendations on material and details, this was the result (which I am very happy with):

 

700

 

 

The suit is darker than it appears in the photo and the material has some texture to it which makes it interesting to my eye so this is my version of the standard navy suit. It will be something I can wear for work, weddings and other formal occasions. The material will be plain coloured but textured and the details like the cut, shoulders, pockets and lapels will the little things that make it stand out. I'm not bothered about the handstitching and other extra details like that.

 

I want the next one to fill in the role of a dark conservative suit. Plestor, I'll be wearing this one as much as I wear my mid grey suit - the blue one will will still get worn the most simply because I can wear the jacket and trousers separately or together. I have a few odd jackets that work well with the blue trousers and the blue jacket looks good with my grey wool and flannel trousers. I doubt I'd be able to (or want to do that with this commission.

post #16442 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHECKstar View Post

That'll be John Lennon there Gerry...
Actually on a more serious tone, I am in a similar situation as you. My last PJ commission I went in with the view to get either a navy pinstripe or charchoal grey. Tom steered me away fro. The charcoal subtly suggesting that with my complexions dark charcoal will make me look washed out. So ended up with the navy pinstripe. A part of me thinks that I need a dark grey suit, but then Tom has said there is nothing wrong with various types of blue.

The Russian Communist? I though he had a goatee.


I'm starting to think that everyone here has a blogger blue suit in their wardrobe.
post #16443 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Interesting discussion. With the first suit, I wanted something to replace the ill fitting navy suit I had and with Tom's recommendations on material and details, this was the result (which I am very happy with): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


The suit is darker than it appears in the photo and the material has some texture to it which makes it interesting to my eye so this is my version of the standard navy suit. It will be something I can wear for work, weddings and other formal occasions. The material will be plain coloured but textured and the details like the cut, shoulders, pockets and lapels will the little things that make it stand out. I'm not bothered about the handstitching and other extra details like that.

I want the next one to fill in the role of a dark conservative suit. Plestor, I'll be wearing this one as much as I wear my mid grey suit - the blue one will will still get worn the most simply because I can wear the jacket and trousers separately or together. I have a few odd jackets that work well with the blue trousers and the blue jacket looks good with my grey wool and flannel trousers. I doubt I'd be able to (or want to do that with this commission.
Your other suit is 3 r 2.5 yes? I rather like it too, somewhat less CBD then i would have gone, but that allows you to pull it apart into seprates more... Intresting re: odd jackets and blue trousers -- I *really* don't like blue trousers.

I suppose I projected and misread you but in my case I find I wear my more favoured suits more* as a whole suit.

*Or I wish I could in the case of less conservative options.

******

Blahman, if the 520 fresco counts then probabaly. See below (2nd, right coloumn) for a reasonably acurate colouration as the HFW pictures are terrible.

post #16444 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Romp View Post

Im keen on a 7 fold. Any sneak peek shots?

I've posted the plum grenadine and the caramel twill that are coming on my affiliate thread and tumblr, but apart from this I've only got swatches here, which I'm not all that keen on photographing, just because I don't think they will do them justice.

But apart from those we have maroon grenadine, a burnt orange woven, navy striped repp, red striped repp, a champagne woven stripe, a light silver floral woven (awesome wedding tie), brown pin dot and a brown printed silk. Don't worry I'll be taking photos the second they arrive!
post #16445 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plestor View Post


Your other suit is 3 r 2.5 yes? I rather like it too, somewhat less CBD then i would have gone, but that allows you to pull it apart into seprates more... Intresting re: odd jackets and blue trousers -- I *really* don't like blue trousers.

 

Yep, it's 3 r 2.5. I'm lucky in that I work in a place that's not conservative so that allows me quite a bit of leeway. I've got a grey Donegal tweed jacket that I think goes better with blue trousers than grey. Also, this one works with the blue trousers as well:

 

700

 

 

Grey trousers are more versatile with odd jackets but blue does work in some cases and I like having that option.

post #16446 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Interesting discussion. With the first suit, I wanted something to replace the ill fitting navy suit I had and with Tom's recommendations on material and details, this was the result (which I am very happy with):

 

700

 

 

The suit is darker than it appears in the photo and the material has some texture to it which makes it interesting to my eye so this is my version of the standard navy suit. It will be something I can wear for work, weddings and other formal occasions. The material will be plain coloured but textured and the details like the cut, shoulders, pockets and lapels will the little things that make it stand out. I'm not bothered about the handstitching and other extra details like that.

 

I want the next one to fill in the role of a dark conservative suit. Plestor, I'll be wearing this one as much as I wear my mid grey suit - the blue one will will still get worn the most simply because I can wear the jacket and trousers separately or together. I have a few odd jackets that work well with the blue trousers and the blue jacket looks good with my grey wool and flannel trousers. I doubt I'd be able to (or want to do that with this commission.

Hi - very nice. Is this with no shoulder pad and shirt shoulder? 

 

I have one (my only PJohnson's) made in Ariston Denim wool with no shoulder pads and shirt shoulder. Still my best fitting suit ever. 

post #16447 of 57963

Thanks! This is with no shoulder pad. I'm not sure what you mean by shirt shoulders but it is definitely my best fitting suit (as it should be).


Edited by Gerry Nelson - 8/11/12 at 10:21pm
post #16448 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Thanks! This is with no shoulder pad. I'm not sure what you mean by shirt shoulders but it is definitely my bets fitting suit (as it should be).

Thanks for the reply. Your suit really looks great.

I am by no means an expert, and i know someone else will correct me, but shirt shoulder refers to the method that the sleeve is attached to the shoulder on your jacket. In traditional tailoring the shoulder is typically Pressed "open" (or closed, in the case of a rope shoulder), creating quite a formal and structured look. The shirt shoulder jacket essentially uses the same technique as that in shit making where the sleeve is folded and stitched underneath the shoulder seam allowance - just like your shirt. The result is a very natural shoulder that rolls off your shoulder bone.

You might also note the pleating in your shoulder - that is the result of a liberate larger sleeveless being fitted into a smaller Armscye (armhole) - resulting in the puckers and the gathers.

Anyway - just a bit of mindless rambling to go with your great fit pic smile.gif.
post #16449 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Interesting discussion. With the first suit, I wanted something to replace the ill fitting navy suit I had and with Tom's recommendations on material and details, this was the result (which I am very happy with):




The suit is darker than it appears in the photo and the material has some texture to it which makes it interesting to my eye so this is my version of the standard navy suit. It will be something I can wear for work, weddings and other formal occasions. The material will be plain coloured but textured and the details like the cut, shoulders, pockets and lapels will the little things that make it stand out. I'm not bothered about the handstitching and other extra details like that.

I want the next one to fill in the role of a dark conservative suit. Plestor, I'll be wearing this one as much as I wear my mid grey suit - the blue one will will still get worn the most simply because I can wear the jacket and trousers separately or together. I have a few odd jackets that work well with the blue trousers and the blue jacket looks good with my grey wool and flannel trousers. I doubt I'd be able to (or want to do that with this commission.

Really nice suit! maybe it's just the shoes but the bottom half looks a little weird to me. Makes you look quite top heavy with chicken legs and mammoth feet. Is probably the angle of the photo though. Really like the colour though. It's boss.
post #16450 of 57963
Here are some shots of the G&H sports coat and a sibling...










post #16451 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof. B. Bear View Post


Really nice suit! maybe it's just the shoes but the bottom half looks a little weird to me. Makes you look quite top heavy with chicken legs and mammoth feet. Is probably the angle of the photo though. Really like the colour though. It's boss.

 

Thanks! I'll take some photos again and look at it keeping that in mind. I do need to add some leg mass on though ...

post #16452 of 57963
^ Gotta go to the gym and hit those squats and SL Deadlifts.
post #16453 of 57963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Plestor View Post


Romp's thinking is a trap. You'll now have two suits you wear above others, do you really want one of them to stick out* and hence not get to wear it much?
As an aside, windowpane always sticks out as a non conservative option.
*I've done this in the past and its really as bad as it sounds.
Edit. Taliors' stylists^ can lead you down a bit of a wild road, be careful there too.
^Be it the measurer (e.x. MTM), a dedicated stylist (e.x. Rubinacci), or a cutter.

Well it sounded like he had some basics covered with mid greys and blues (do you have a navy?). If not then sure get some more versatile basics:)

post #16454 of 57963
post #16455 of 57963
Those Beatles pics are more than 50 years old*.

I think it still looks good - even if you wouldn't wear it now.

Narrow pants, high rise, narrow ties, highwater (ish) pants, short ish jackets - current.

Main thing that makes it look NOT 2012 is the Chelsea boots and hard 3 or 4 button jackets and almost exclusively white shirts..

*Poetic license - they are from '64/'65
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