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post #12046 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by blahman View Post

Grey, black, grey, black, grey, black, navy, black, grey, black, grey, black, grey. Standard solid, worsted, S120 fare. amirite? I stand out so much just by turning up to the office in a brown suit.
Was actually going to get the entire Get Smart collection on DVD last year. It was on sale and going for a great price. Unfortunately, I completely forgot about it.

blah - I wasn't talking so much about the colours - although a bit more variation would be a welcome relief.

I was alluding to the details on jackets especially. Such as flaps on breast pockets, half belted jackets, cuffed sleeves and other variations.
post #12047 of 52291
blah - you off touring with Super Junior?
post #12048 of 52291
Watching all of the attempts at black tie at the Logies makes me want to tear my eyes out ffffuuuu.gif
post #12049 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naka View Post

Watching all of the attempts at black tie at the Logies makes me want to tear my eyes out ffffuuuu.gif

From the brief photo selection I saw only Adam Hills seemed to have made a decent effort.
post #12050 of 52291
263

Max with double breasted vest, with narrow notched shawl collar (now you would think that was an oxymoron - but look - its shawl AND notched - and it doesn't look OTT) that goes all the way round the neck. . This would have been a part of a 3 piece suit.

Max has a beautiful colored tie that manages to be understated rather than headlights in your face. Tie knot appears to be a nicely symmetrically Pratt knot - that isn't huge like a Windsor. High collared shirt, neither white nor blue - possible light ecru or grey - with nicely spread points, not too exaggerated or too close together.

I don't remember this scene but poor old Max looks as if hes either been working hard or roughed up by a KAOS agent or two and has loosened his tie. Not in a sloppy way though.

Chief has a tasty classic grey herringbone tweed jacket with throat latch, raised seams, softish relaxed shoulders, 3 buttons perhaps with a slight tendency to roll to 2 on the top button. White button down shirt and narrow rep tie, also with a symmetrical Pratt knot rather than 4iH or Windsor.

Plenty of tasty dressing and we are only looking at the top quarter of each man.

Most episodes Max will wear at least 2 or 3 different outfits, suits, casual jackets, Harrington type jackets, and jumpers or cardigans. Chief seems to change less but is still worth watching.
Edited by fxh - 4/15/12 at 5:58am
post #12051 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pink Socks View Post

Never saw Get Smart growing up in sunny Scotland (too young for the original run and it did not get repeated the way it does here). Loved The Man from UNCLE, The Prisoner and The Avengers (Mrs Peel..we're needed) on repeat for story and style and the description above makes me think I should dig out the DVDs of these and also keep an eye out for Get Smart (at which point I think I am supposed to say "Smart thinking 99" or something).
fxh, any chance of a style breakdown of The Man from UNCLE, The Prisoner or The Avengers. Blahman would be interested in Mrs Peel's catsuits (actually who wouldn't?).

Sure - I've got bugger all to do - any other requests?

Other good TV programs to help understand dress, fitting, combinations and dress codes and signals are Mad Men naturally and Are You Being Served -specifically Capt Peacock, who rarely varies from the now extinct Stroller jacket and Grey or sponge-bag trousers, and Mr Humphries, both of whom wear generally well made, well fitting, well put together examples of english suits with Mr Humphries wearing the current restrained version of 70s tailored clothing. Anyone who can still sneer at the 70s influence after seeing some of Mr Humprhies suits clearly hasn't been looking with an informed eye. The series is set in a clothing store and , like all english drama, is about class divisions and interactions. John Inman who plays Mr Humprhies started off working in a local clothing store window dressing for two years and then spent 4 years with Austin Reed in London. He usually dressed just as natty out of role in chat shows etc.

Another one that is even perhaps more interesting to decode is Vicar of Dibley. This series is set in the country, or in rural / village england. Clearly not in the BIG city urban area and also clearly not the suburbia of the commuters nor in terraces in urban area or council states. The city / urban visitor or interloper is always a bit up themselves or a shyster or too pushy.

VoD has standard scenes that move the "plot" along and allow the characters to develop and do their schtick. Frequent there is a village meeting of some sort, either the hall committee, church committee, fete committee which allows the same chief characters to gather together and interact. Sometimes the meeting is in a public hall or sometimes it is in a private home. The private homes are decorated/ presented to set up the class, character and place in the hierarchy of the character whose house it is. Similarly the animals as pets reflect the same issues.

The vicar dresses as a vicar in tradition black dress and all other characters wear versions of English rural /country clothes that indicate their station in life or place in the village hierarchy.

Have a look sometime at how the roles are sharply delineated by the clothes worn. The VoD show uses clothes as a quick,sharp and definite indicator or role and occupation and place in the hierarchy. There is much to learn - easily from VoD about the graduations in english rural dress. As we all know here the understanding and history of English rural/country dress (sporting, casual, away from city) ) is a crucial foundation to understanding how are clothes are built and how and why and when we wear clothes now.

Midsumers Murders uses clothing a bit more subtly than VoD but nonetheless still uses clothing, and the way its worn, to delineate the myriad minor graduations of the UK class system in well to do village life and to add to character development. There is even an episode that I recommend to watch where Inspector Barnaby - the real one, not this interloper on now, gets involved with the tailor in the village and eventually gets a jacket made over an episode. Well worth the time to find it.
Edited by fxh - 4/15/12 at 5:55am
post #12052 of 52291
As far as Australian TV goes - I have never watched Neighbours - except ironically when I was in Aberdeen, and was expected to be an expert.

Nor have I watch the other popular stuff which I think is called Summer Bay?? - someone will set me right.

I only managed to see a few episodes of The SLAP before I went overseas - but The SLAP would repay some analysis.

Neighbours from what little I know is set resolutely and unapologetically (triumphantly even?) in the mid outer suburbs. Rigwood/Croydon . And I assume the clothing reflects that - no city suits, no hipsters in vintage sockless brown pebble brogues lonqwings one size too big??

Summer Bay I assume features sea, sand a minimal clothing over young fit bodies.

What little I saw of THE SLAP seem to be getting to use clothing , and drinks, food, houses as a class or hierarchy marker in the program. At that stage I was more concerned with the narrative and character development . I'd need to see it through to get my eye in.

Only film (I call TV film) tells you much about clothes. Books just assume clothes, rarely will they allude to anything more than he wore a suit and tie. Rarely are there descriptions of clothes in books. And even then you cant see fit , colour, style details.

In doing the BOOK on TV there has to be that added dimension of What will this character wear in this scene? what will he wear to distinguish him from his cousin, what will his wife wear to both show she is different yet part of he same milieu hes in. what will the anti hero wear, what will the hero wear?

And then on top of all this how do we dress each character to develop both their character and the plot/narrative.

On top of all this how do we dress the show over all to show its in australia at this time and then how do we say, in clothes, that its in certain parts of Melbourne but not other parts.

So I'm looking forward to "reading" the DVD of the SLAP for clothing signals, signifiers, signs and flags.
post #12053 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post


Sure - I've got bugger all to do - any other requests?

Well, we know you have no socks to darn...fair point though, thanks for the in depth Get Smart analysis. Will see if I can post some The Man from UNCLE, The Avengers and/or The Prisoner stuff over the next couple of days (no promises, I need to darn some pink socks too).

Also need to give thebrownman my Mashburn thoughts...
post #12054 of 52291
Am finally reading The Bonfire of the Vanities which definately does not just assume clothes but goes into some heavy detail. But with an author like Tom Wolfe what would you expect (for those who do not know him and his white suits - google a few images). American Pyscho by Bret Easton Ellis is another novel with full on clothing details but that is very much a part of the character (actually Patrick Bateman would properly be a SFer).
post #12055 of 52291
Speaking of interesting tailored clothing, even old Indiana Jones movies are pretty good with the pieces. Particular one I recall is when Indie is on his day job at the university, where he wore a tweed half belted sports coat.


And just a secret between SF members I was actually to be a member of Super Junior back in the days but had to pull out for health reasons.



Random ebay browsing:

If these Santonis ain't pimp, I don't know what is.

263
Edited by blahman - 4/15/12 at 6:42am
post #12056 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pink Socks View Post

Well, we know you have no socks to darn...fair point though, thanks for the in depth Get Smart analysis. Will see if I can post some The Man from UNCLE, The Avengers and/or The Prisoner stuff over the next couple of days (no promises, I need to darn some pink socks too).
Also need to give thebrownman my Mashburn thoughts...

Actually I do darn my socks if needed. I have a proper mushroom and all. It usually only a hole at the toe seam, rarely at the heel.
post #12057 of 52291
Where can I find quality, stylish and reasonably priced gentlemanly attire (blazers, shirts, pants) in Melbourne?

Any recommendations are appreciated.
post #12058 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

Without wishing to challenge Gerry Nelson as the undisputed shoe king, I thought I'd pop up the list of my shoes. Currently getting quite a few glares from the wife - perhaps I have too many?
Black Shoes
A. Testoni wholecuts
Santoni FAM monks
Bally Split toe
Zee oxford captoe (MTM)
Tods penny loafers
Brown Shoes
C&J Audley dk brown
Loake Hilton semi-brogue medium brown
Loake Chester wingtips tan
Zee wingtips (MTM) dk brown
A. Testoni loafers dk brown
Allen Edmonds Hillcrest tan
Santoni suede brogues dk brown
C&J Kent suede loafers chocolate
Burgundy shoes
Santoni FAM wingtip monks
Edward Green suede wingtips
Alfred Sargent Holt derby
Boots
RM Williams chestnut
Loake Kempton tan
Herring Clare brogue boots dk brown
I also have a pair of chestnut C&J Westbournes on order.
Sadly, when I look at the list I just want more. Better black dress shoes, oxblood, cherry, double monks, so many things yet to try ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post


CD, you actually have more than I do now so I shall present the title to you over lunch when we next catch up.
 
That's a lovely collection! Any more than 1 pair of black and 1 pair of brown shoes might be considered too many by some people so I think that ship has long since sailed for the both of us. wink.gif

Can you post a photo of the EG burgundy suede wingtips? They sound pretty sweet! Out of curiosity, what do you usually wear with the black loafers?

By the way, have you thought about getting any shell cordovan shoes? Oxblood shell cordovan double monks could check off the few remaining boxes to be filled smile.gif

If we're talking about shoes, then I might repost this from some time back:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

Gents,
At the risk of looking like a tosser, I thought that I'd post some photos of my shoe collection, more as a guide to different makes/lasts/models of shoes than to show off.
The pictures show shoes from a variety of brands, including Loake, Barkers, Alfred Sargent, Cheaney (for Herringbone), Crockett and Jones, Edward Green, Florsheim, Zegna, Ferragamo Tramezza, Santoni and Berluti.
I've divided them up into a few photos below.
The first two photos are mainly balmorals, with a few other shoes thrown in for good measure. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
263
Back row, L-R: Barkers, C&J Drummond (348 last), C&J Asquith (337 last), Berluti
Front row, L-R: Florsheim, Santoni FAM, Alfred Sargent for Peal & Co for Brooks Brothers, and Zegna fatte a mano.
And a "bird's eye" view:
263
The next photo is also mainly balmorals, including a pair of balmoral boots, and also shows a pair of Loake blucher wingtip boots and a pair of rather interesting spectator double monks made by C&J for RL Polo: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
263
Back row, L-R: Edward Green "Asquith" on the 202 last in Edwardian dark oak, Grenson for Paul Stuart, Loake (026 last), Ferragamo Tramezza, Loake (Capital last)
Middle row, L-R: Santoni FAM, Stefano Branchini, Ferragamo Lavarazione Originale, Loake (026 last)
Front row, L-R: C&J for RL Polo, Edward Green on the 202 last
The final photo shows some Cheaney for Herringbone loafers at the back, along with a pair by "Chapman and Moore" that I bought from an Australian member here. In the front are two pairs of driving loafers - the "camel" ones are Herringbone and the blue ones are Milano. The final two pairs are C&J for Peal & Co for Brooks Brothers, and Ferragamo Tramezza. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
263
Enjoy! I'm happy to answer any questions about fit etc as best I can.

I subsequently realised that I didn't include my black shoes in the photos, so it's lacking a few pairs. I really think that I have to get around to selling some shoes...
post #12059 of 52291

Hi calogero,

 

I tend to get a lot of my stuff either through ebay, op shops or the Buy and Sell subforum here. What does reasonably priced mean to you for each of those things? 

 

Journeyman, some very interesting shoes there! Do you rotate through all of them equally?

 

 

I got The Tie out today:

 

Today's Attire (Click to show)

IMG00641-20120416-0828.jpgIMG00644-20120416-0831.jpg

 

 

 

Details (Click to show)

 

Suit: eHaberdasher

Shirt: Hilditch & Key

Tie: Holland and Holland

Pocket Square: Gieves and Hawkes

Shoes: C&J Weymouth

 

 

post #12060 of 52291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post

Hi calogero,

I tend to get a lot of my stuff either through ebay, op shops or the Buy and Sell subforum here. What does reasonably priced mean to you for each of those things? 

Journeyman, some very interesting shoes there! Do you rotate through all of them equally?


I got The Tie out today:
Today's Attire (Click to show)
350x263px-LL-c40ad4de_IMG00641-20120416-0828.jpeg350x263px-LL-1d987cc0_IMG00644-20120416-0831.jpeg


Details (Click to show)

Suit: eHaberdasher
Shirt: Hilditch & Key
Tie: Holland and Holland
Pocket Square: Gieves and Hawkes
Shoes: C&J Weymouth

Love dat Weymouth, first saw that style with the G&G Grant and fell in love inlove.gif
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