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post #1036 of 67946
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnsNotHere View Post
So I took my sportscoat in to get the sleeves shortened and the tailor is adamant that they don't need shortening? Bizarre as there is not a shirt cuff in sight when worn. Anyway, I figured I'd get someone else to do it and he can just hem some trousers I also bought in. May give that dude Chris a go as suggested by 80's guy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by that_80s_guy View Post
I dont think it is as important for shirt cuff to show on a sportscoat as it is on a suit. I personally think they are more versatile not showing cuffs, as you can wear them with more casual shirts as well.
I've got the "sleeve length is fine" from many tailors in Australia. Most of them just don't seem to understand, however I just stay strong and they give in, as anyone in a customer service based job should. I haven't had one dodgy job on any of my alterations yet. Can't blaim them really, especially since most of Australia wear jackets like this great example - Warren Anderson (Check out the classy briefcase too!!)
post #1037 of 67946
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobro View Post
I've got the "sleeve length is fine" from many tailors in Australia. Most of them just don't seem to understand, however I just stay strong and they give in, as anyone in a customer service based job should. I haven't had one dodgy job on any of my alterations yet.

That's often been my experience too. Same thing with pant length as well. Some will have a good whinge about it but in the end they do what you ask.
post #1038 of 67946
Good evening all,

I've been reading a few posts about getting suits & sportscoats tailored in Sydney as I'm 5'7" and 75kgs which would put me about a 38 - 40S depending on fit, and as far as I know most people carry sportscoats in regular sizes only.

I've been reading in many books about the wisom of having one decent $1800 suit vs 3 OTR $600 suits, but am really questioning if it may be the best idea for me as someone who is relatively new to the workforce and plans to travel a little, to invest in a suit and sportsjacket from Mr.Marrone or perhaps start off with someone like Sam Disano or Nick Salanitro who may be more reasonable options for someone new to the workforce.

I'm also wondering if anyone has anything to say about rembrandt' MTM service. I was talking to the guys in Mid-city and they mentioned that the suits are made in NZ, and are also throwing in an extra pant for about $1200 to $1500. Then again, something in my head is telling me invest a little more and go with someone like Nick or Sam instead. Trying to avoid a "penny wise pound foolish situation here I suppose...

The sportscoat would probably be my 1st order as it's something I would probably use in the immediate future. While the suit can wait a little for my reserves to build up as well as the fact that I would probably be using it for more formal dinners only (which seem rather distant at this stage.

Would appreciate any input for my first venture to the world of tailor made suits. Cheers peeps...
post #1039 of 67946
^ If it is your first ever suit, I wouldn't be jumping in with a big spend on a fully bespoke number. Why not try getting some off the rack suits tailored to fit you instead until you have a greater sense of what you really want? That adage about having one really great suit rather than a few cheaper OTR suits needs some qualification. I have to wear a suit every week day. If I had only one, even a really well made one, it would just collapse from exhaustion pretty quickly. If you only wear a suit every now and then, I guess it makes more sense to have one really nice one, but do you really want huge wads of precious dosh wrapped up in a garment you may wear half a dozen times a year? At 5'7'' it honestly can't be that hard to find clothes to fit can it (he says from the lofty heights of 5'9'')? Go OTR until your tastes mature a bit (hope that doesn't sound patronising!).
post #1040 of 67946
Just a quick question about suit drop. Yes, I know that the drop is the difference in measurements between the chest and waist. However, for some suit manufacturers, does the jacket cut also change for a different drop? E.g a 52 R 7 suit vs a 52 R 8. Would the jacket be identical? Or would this depend on the manufacturer?
post #1041 of 67946
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ff3z8e View Post
Good evening all,

I've been reading a few posts about getting suits & sportscoats tailored in Sydney as I'm 5'7" and 75kgs which would put me about a 38 - 40S depending on fit, and as far as I know most people carry sportscoats in regular sizes only.

I've been reading in many books about the wisom of having one decent $1800 suit vs 3 OTR $600 suits, but am really questioning if it may be the best idea for me as someone who is relatively new to the workforce and plans to travel a little, to invest in a suit and sportsjacket from Mr.Marrone or perhaps start off with someone like Sam Disano or Nick Salanitro who may be more reasonable options for someone new to the workforce.

I'm also wondering if anyone has anything to say about rembrandt' MTM service. I was talking to the guys in Mid-city and they mentioned that the suits are made in NZ, and are also throwing in an extra pant for about $1200 to $1500. Then again, something in my head is telling me invest a little more and go with someone like Nick or Sam instead. Trying to avoid a "penny wise pound foolish situation here I suppose...

The sportscoat would probably be my 1st order as it's something I would probably use in the immediate future. While the suit can wait a little for my reserves to build up as well as the fact that I would probably be using it for more formal dinners only (which seem rather distant at this stage.

Would appreciate any input for my first venture to the world of tailor made suits. Cheers peeps...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Selvaggio View Post
^ If it is your first ever suit, I wouldn't be jumping in with a big spend on a fully bespoke number.

Why not try getting some off the rack suits tailored to fit you instead until you have a greater sense of what you really want?

That adage about having one really great suit rather than a few cheaper OTR suits needs some qualification.

I have to wear a suit every week day. If I had only one, even a really well made one, it would just collapse from exhaustion pretty quickly. If you only wear a suit every now and then, I guess it makes more sense to have one really nice one, but do you really want huge wads of precious dosh wrapped up in a garment you may wear half a dozen times a year?

At 5'7'' it honestly can't be that hard to find clothes to fit can it (he says from the lofty heights of 5'9'')? Go OTR until your tastes mature a bit (hope that doesn't sound patronising!).

I have to agree, go with OTR and slowly swap them out or fatten your rotation using MTM or Bespoke.
post #1042 of 67946

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Edited by merkur - 7/30/11 at 1:21am
post #1043 of 67946
Anyone got some combo ideas for this black and white gingham blazer I just bought? I see in Herringbones newsletter that they have some new chinos now in store.. Might check them out Aus V Serbs tomorrow morning.. Carrrrn the boys
post #1044 of 67946
Saw my first pocket square "in the wild" today since I moved to Perth. It was in Central Park at about 4pm... so which one of you was it?
post #1045 of 67946
My Loake Aldywch shoes arrived yesterday from Pediwear. Just thought I'd give some props to Pediwear... shoes were dispatched 18 June so very fast shipping.

They also threw in a tie (ok, it's a shit tie I'll never wear, but still), a shoe horn, shoe polish, shoe trees, and some shoe bags.

In addition I now receive a 15% discount on all future Loake purchases from them. If you know your size, I highly recommended them.
post #1046 of 67946
I ordered my Loake Aldwych from Herring shoes on Monday. I'll let you know when they get here. What sort of shoe trees did Pediwear throw in?
post #1047 of 67946
Leadership Challenge!
post #1048 of 67946
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yika View Post
Leadership Challenge!

Please Labor keep him there so we the people can sink the boot in personally!
post #1049 of 67946
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ff3z8e View Post
I've been reading in many books about the wisom of having one decent $1800 suit vs 3 OTR $600 suits, but am really questioning if it may be the best idea for me as someone who is relatively new to the workforce and plans to travel a little, to invest in a suit and sportsjacket from Mr.Marrone or perhaps start off with someone like Sam Disano or Nick Salanitro who may be more reasonable options for someone new to the workforce...
If you haven't been wearing suits regularly, at least once or twice a week and not for dress ups, for at least a few years, then unless you have an excess of $ you should stick with $600 (always buy on sale) OTR plus spending say $200 on alterations to make it fit. Buy one you like first then get sleeves, coat length, nipped in waist if needed, pants waist adjusted, cuff length, width of pants etc all to fit you. Then after wearing it for a few months think of getting another one and getting it adjusted using what you have learnt. Then after a 6 months wear get another one. Then save up for a MTM then after 6 - 12 months save up for a bespoke - if you need to. Much better to have a few well fitting OTR than one very very expensive bespoke thats possibly just a bit off - although a good tailor should prevent that. A MTM, perhaps strangely, is more hit and miss than either OTR or bespoke. Bespoke you are at least paying for the tailors expertise in fitting. OTR is designed to work for many. MTM especially online can go horribly wrong very easy. My hierarchy is:
  1. Silhouette matters most
  2. Fit next
  3. Colour
  4. Quality of material
  5. Tailoring quality
  6. Individual touches - ticket pocket, cuffs, etc
edit: most iGent criticism focuses on 2 first then 6
post #1050 of 67946
How do you separate silhouette from fit?
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