Now that I have a break between cutting linen Summer shirts ... regarding your high armhole: The simplest equation is the higher - the better. That should be the goal of every shirtmaker. After you get used to not wearing a RTW tent, you should begin to find the higher armhole more confortable. If it is too high, naturally, it will cut into your underarm. You'll know it easily from the red marks and dripping blood at the end of the day. If this transpires, ask the shirtmaker to lower it 1/2". If you just feel a bit of discomfort, the ask for 1/4" lower. With each progressive shirt, go 1/4" lower yet until you achieve the balance between no underarm discomfort and as high as it can remain. You'll notice, when you raise your arm out to the side, the shirt will tend to stay in place much better than with the old, low armhole RTW. There are a myriad of other fitting enhancements which are a direct result of the higher armhole ... but the next linen calls. Feel free to ask any specific questions in this regard. P.S.: Sorry, FIHT and others, but humor in the area you broached is gone. Finis.