- Button stance: Â Where the highest, middle and lowest buttons should be placed with reference to my body?
High is good. Â A generally accepted formula for finding the button point is to take the coat length (measured on the center backseam), divide by two, and then subtract 1 1/2". Â Or less, if you are short. Â That gives a nice high button point. Â Then put the other buttons 4.5" above and below the middle button. Â Or slightly less if you are short. Please note that button stance also depends on the lapel roll and the waist of the coat, which depends in part on how the coat front and lapels are cut. Â So if you want a high button stance from a tailor who does not do this as a matter of course, you need to tell him that at your first meeting, before
he draws your pattern.
- Hip pocket: Â Am I right to say that it lines up with the lowest button?
That is the Savile Row way, yes.
If so, then how do I determine where the hip pocket is with reference to my body?
I don't understand.
- Breast pocket: Â How do I specify where it should be?
Your tailor ought to know where to put it. Â If you're going to be dictating button stances (and this is unusual for clients to do) then you ought to let the tailor do something on his own. Â
- Double vents: Â Does it stop in line with the hip pocket?
That's one way to do it. Â Some tailors also have a proportional formula that adjusts vent depth according to the client's height.