I've never known Ferragamo to work with shell cordovan. However, shell cordovan is a vegetable tanned material and has a waxy hand. Usually, after spending time in the boxes before purchase, a slight haze developes that is clear to see. You generally have to work a bit harder to bring the shine out. If you examine shell cordovan closely, you can see some defects in just about every pair - a few pock-marks, tiny indentations, different tones of color, etc. Calfskin, at the better end, is consistent in it's grain and finish (antiqueing of brown tones is intentional, and done after the hides are dyed) and it's hand smooth.