I don't think this jacket (or Borrelli) wants to be part of the "natural shoulder" tradition. In the '60s, you'd very rarely see open patch packets on any odd jackets from Brooks, Chipp, etc (blazers generally had flapped patch pockets with welt breast pockets while tweeds simply had flapped pockets and welt breast pockets). The older tradition used the open patch pockets on the odd sport jacket to differentiate it from city wear. In "Clothes and the Man", Gary Cooper wears a herringbone jacket with three open patch pockets (p.55) while Anthony Drexel Biddle wears a DB seersucker jacket with open patch pockets and a welt breast pocket (p. 105). As to trouser color, the jacket has a herringbone pattern so I'd opt for lightweight wool twill or gabardine (as opposed to a plain weave). Either a taupe darker than the jacket (should have contrast-avoid mismatched suit) or medium gray twill. Blue shirt with tie that picks up the blue overplaid. Darker brown shoes. If you are an EBay buyer, it's not that often you find a jacket in your size that you want to buy. Meaning that you may have to be lenient with styling details (vents, pockets), but of course you can't be lenient with fit.