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Classic colognes and modern manufacture

post #1 of 23
11/11/08 at 1:14am
Thread Starter 
Gentlemen,

After eschewing fragrance for some time, I am looking to pick up a classic cologne, probably for evening and weekend use only.

I tried and liked Acqua di Parma, which I prefer to Blenheim Bouquet which is also readily available in my neck of the woods. I also enjoy the "Colonia Intensa" variant of AdP, as opposed to the "Colonia Assoluta" which is a little sweet and cloying.

I learnt, however, that the AdP firm was acquired, first by Diego della Valle of Tod's fame (infamy), and more recently by LVMH, I gather. The latter, in particular, is synonymous with the promotion of brand hype over quality.

Can anyone comment as to the quality of AdP at present, and as to whether it is still made with primarily natural, not synthetic ingredients?

How about Penhaligons?
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post #2 of 23
11/11/08 at 10:22am
Penhaligons is still good to go, so far as I know... I haven't worn AdP in recent years, but I wouldn't be surprised at all to see dilution, just given that it's really been expanded. Nevertheless, I don't know that for sure and so I wouldn't want to sway you one way or the other. If you like the scent and think it works, that's the key. Sadly, virtually all fragrances (even those at the top) use mostly synthetic notes these days. In addition to changes in international law about the harvesting/growing of certain essences (like oakmoss, for example), many of the key ingredients in fragrances, rose, agarwood, ambergris, sandalwood, etc. have gotten so expensive for natural, raw essences that it's hard to find places that use the "real deal." So, many of the very old classics have been changed/diluted/altered for reasons of economics and legality. Just trust your nose and I wouldn't worry about the rest. It's too depressing.
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post #3 of 23
11/11/08 at 1:22pm
If you want a classic eau du cologne, perhaps you could try the Guerlain offerings - Imperial and Eau du Guerlain. Not as expensive as AdP and just as good in my book. Also Eau Savage from Dior, or Monsieur de Givenchy, or Signoricci. I wouldn't pay through the nose for something in this style when there are so many great classics available on the cheap.
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post #4 of 23
11/11/08 at 1:28pm
I would add Floris to this list.
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post #5 of 23
11/11/08 at 1:30pm
It's a little harder to find, but Parfums de Nicolai Cologne Sologne is another outstanding, all natural EdC.
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post #6 of 23
11/11/08 at 1:40pm
Baron makes a great point about not paying through the nose for scents of this genre.
I've seen Monsieur de Givenchy at the local Ross outlet and been very glad to have it, smells far better than price would indicate (Actually it's been re-launched as part of the Givenchy Les Mythiques line with a much higher price tag).

If you can score a bottle of Signoricci that is a fantastic scent.

In the classic colognes, I'd also mention the Chanel cologne (if you can find it, probably Les Exclusif), and Institute Tres Bien for top colognes, if price is no object.
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post #7 of 23
11/12/08 at 1:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post
If you want a classic eau du cologne, perhaps you could try the Guerlain offerings - Imperial and Eau du Guerlain. Not as expensive as AdP and just as good in my book. Also Eau Savage from Dior, or Monsieur de Givenchy, or Signoricci. I wouldn't pay through the nose for something in this style when there are so many great classics available on the cheap.

Shall have a look. Here in Australia, everything seems to be overpriced, not a huge margin between those you mention and AdP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post
Baron makes a great point about not paying through the nose for scents of this genre.
I've seen Monsieur de Givenchy at the local Ross outlet and been very glad to have it, smells far better than price would indicate (Actually it's been re-launched as part of the Givenchy Les Mythiques line with a much higher price tag).

If you can score a bottle of Signoricci that is a fantastic scent.

In the classic colognes, I'd also mention the Chanel cologne (if you can find it, probably Les Exclusif), and Institute Tres Bien for top colognes, if price is no object.

I understand the Chanel Exclusifs cologne comes only in large bottles for some $300...

The AdP website hammers the whole "craftsmenship" thing right down to the bottles, apparently. Doesn't make it true, but they'd be really flying close to breaking some laws if it's not.
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post #8 of 23
11/13/08 at 2:30am
Even though it's owned by LVMH, I think ADP is still a superb fragrance. It's one of my favorite citruses along with Eau de Rochas Homme.
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post #9 of 23
11/13/08 at 10:03am
u may wanna try Aqua diSelva..or ...the 1934 Dunhill (i believe it to be the orig/very 1st), unlike their others, try the Dubhill store in nyc, got mine from them appx10 months ago
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post #10 of 23
11/13/08 at 7:37pm
What about Knize Ten?
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post #11 of 23
11/13/08 at 8:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010 View Post
What about Knize Ten?

To be fair, it's polarizing.

I know people who love it. However, I hate it passionately.

This might be a good time to empahsize that any cologne or perfume might have been made from top-drawer oils and ingredients but still not work for you. Alternately there are people who wear some outlandishly cheap scents very very well. Get samples wherever possible, wear more than once before buying, and trust your nose.
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post #12 of 23
11/13/08 at 8:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post
To be fair, it's polarizing.

I know people who love it. However, I hate it passionately.

Knize Ten:
I LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT!!! You know that.

Anyway, I think it's leather par excellence... the dry, stinky kind of leather that has a hint of citrus in the top note, but only because it's trying to play nice. Another good one is Creed Cuir de Russie. Yet another is Parfum d'empire Cuir d'ottoman.

But, then again, I love Mouchoir, Jicky, and other major stinkers, so keep that in mind.

Knize is an old fashioned, fairly linear leather scent that is very gentlemanly. It's not nearly as nice a leather as Cuiron, but the two are very different.
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post #13 of 23
11/13/08 at 10:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010 View Post
What about Knize Ten?
I love the way it smells, but it feels to hot on my body.
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post #14 of 23
11/13/08 at 11:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I love the way it smells, but it feels to hot on my body.

A good balance for a leather scent that's not too funky/dry but also not too boring would be Creed Royal English Leather. The tangerine top note gives it a very unique edge... though it, too, is very linear.
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post #15 of 23
11/13/08 at 11:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rach2jlc View Post
A good balance for a leather scent that's not too funky/dry but also not too boring would be Creed Royal English Leather. The tangerine top note gives it a very unique edge... though it, too, is very linear.

Any opinions on Givenchy's Pi?
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