Shoulder pads are inevitable. Â Only a tiny handful of bespoke tailors can make a jacket with no pad. Â It is hard as hell. Â I used to think no one could do it, but I have been proved wrong. So no pad is for all intents and purposes out of the question. Â So the real question is, How big and what shape pad do you want? Â That depends on your shape and your tastes. Â The more your shoulders slope, the more you will want a little "lift". Â You also want them to balance your hips. Â If your hips are substantially wider than your shoulders, you will want a little "extension." Â Shape -- i.e., sloped, squared, pitched, etc. -- is largely a matter of taste. Â But the more muscular you are, or if your shoulders are naturally straight, the less padding you want.