(petescolari \tPosted on Feb. 26 2005,17:43) I went to Harvard to watch the college squash nationals and Tom Wolfe was there watching his son, who plays for Trinity.
Now you've gone and done it. As if age wasn't evident enough in my hair color ... the last time I saw Tom's son, he was with a group of his elementary school friends I led in my Cub Scout pack. Thanks, Pete. I'll just go get my (malacca) cane and hobble off into the sunset, now.
(Manton) I notice that all those collars pictured are edge-stitched -- even the buttondown -- rather than having the more common 1/4" border stitch. Personal preference, or client request?
I'm not sure about that button-down. The shadows are doing funny things to the edge but I believe it is actually quarter-stitched. I would shuffle down to the studio and look for it to confirm, but it is on an upper shelf. A Cub Scout leader of my advancing years wouldn't want to be on a ladder without staff members ... or at least Tom's son ... around to catch me ... But I digress. At this point in my career, the vast majority of the collars I make are edge-stitched. If you notice that the collars are particularly flat, that is my usual style. I find that the quarter-stitch tends to break up the flat, clean line of the leaf surface. Hence, most of my personal collars are edge-stitched. After many years of visiting with clients while wearing my collars, most of them have liked the appearance, switched over and now wouldn't wear anything but. More interesting, perhaps, is how my penchant for edge-stitching originally came about. Back in the day ... when the clients used to walk in, peer over my shoulder, and ask, "where's the shirtmaker?", most of my staff were in their 50's. As such, they tended to be going through 'the change'. It was quite common for one of them to be yelling, "I'm hot. Isn't the air conditioner working?" at the same time as another was shouting, "Why it is so cold in here?". Between the clients doubting my abilities and the seamstresses certainty that I was the cause of all of the world's ills, days could be rather trying. Edge-stitched collars are the hardest of all to sew. As such, they constituted that young shirtmaker's only revenge. And so edge we stitched. Grumble they did. Sweet revenge was had. And client preferences did change. However, my bespoke Cubmaster shirts are quarter-stitched ...