Film Noir Buff
Distinguished Member
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Things that didn't make into the Harrisons essay http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/har ... of-manners but are nevertheless interesting nuggets It seems a very English behavior to like similar things in different weights of cloth and different scales of pattern. I suppose if something works for them they stick with it. Harrisons always inventories a two fold (both warp and woof) cloth with a rather tight setting. Handmade tailoring response serves as a good judge if a cloth is serviceable for custom clothes and ultimately for ready-to-wear as well.. Apparently, it's all about the finish on the cloth. Cloth is getting lighter and lighter and new technologies have enabled the finishing plants to produce cloths in a way that gives them more depth. Finishing is the process where the cloth is placed on rollers and chemical solutions are applied to the cloth surface and then rinsed with water. There are just a few places left in Britain where you can get your cloth finished. It should be noted that these few remaining places do a very good job and you can specify a plethora of finishings. To maintain continuity of theme ranges which tend to be bought out of by the same customer such as the premier cru, grand cru and cru classe are all finished in the same place and thus have that same refined finish. Their 16oz corduroy cloth is great for weekends either as a suit, jacket or odd trousers. The 25 oz cords are too heavy for anything but the worst weather but they are beloved by the country set who walk around on the moors in weather normally fit only for ducks. Harrisons make both a silk-cotton blend and a pure cotton, a moleskin, cavalry twills and whipcord for odd trousers. Mohair is extremely popular in Japan and now becoming somewhat popular in England again. Mohair is extremely popular in Japan and becoming somewhat popular in England now, again. Harrisons mohair is a summer as opposed to winter kid. You get finer, softer yarns from a summer shearing which adds up to a mohair cloth which molds to the body as opposed to those "other" mohairs which remain stiff and tend to fight the body's movements. Mohair suits made up into one button single breasted peak lapel suits are currently very popular. Mohair and linen mixed gives a different look than pure linen and does still wrinkle but not nearly as much. People like these blends and there is one factory that made an exemplary linen and poly blend that looked just like linen and without wrinkling nearly as much. The Mystique bunch wears very well but the selections are unimaginatively English. However, relief is on the way. A Lovat green with red/orange windowpane check (37017) was made up as a "risk" fabric that sold extremely well in the Mystique bunch. This success led Harrison's to introduce some more exciting cloth patterns and colors in their Havana bunch which is a summer weight 120s with cashmere (Mystique is about a super 90s). In the Havana range, 21003 is incredibly popular as is a grey with a purple stripe (21002) and the double track red stripe (21022). Those are selling well too and as a result there will be newer and bolder patterns and colors added to the basic suit ranges across the board. Harrisons carries a lovely quality of velvet for jackets which have become popular for hip nights out with friends, to the theater or with that special someone you are having drinks with. In Italy Harrisons is immensely popular; the Italians love the 100s and 120s wool ranges. They love these premier cru and cru classe in the north of Italy because they feel it gives them that sought after English look. The Millionaire jacketing book is being re-issued with a lot more cloths and a few updated patterns. Cashmere colors and their well executed resolution have always been a Harrisons cashmere specialty.
