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***The official Alden thread *** - Page 4756

post #71326 of 91371
The Bureau Belfast , Kafka, Nitty gritty in Sweden, Endclothing in the UK try these all very reliable.
Also Trunkclothiers in London
Edited by prez - 1/20/14 at 11:48am

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post #71327 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

Thanks!

See Ya,
Steve


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I imagine it would be difficult to lighten whiskey "naturally" or without covering it up.
post #71328 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by tifosi View Post

I imagine it would be difficult to lighten whiskey "naturally" or without covering it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

Thanks!

See Ya,
Steve





If you send them back to Alden they wont fix the spot, they will simply dye the rest of the shoe to match the spot...or darker even.


ill advised confused.gif


From what i've seen before with lighter shell, situations like this only get worse the more you try to "fix" the issue.
post #71329 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue collar View Post


If you send them back to Alden they wont fix the spot, they will simply dye the rest of the shoe to match the spot...or darker even.


ill advised confused.gif


From what i've seen before with lighter shell, situations like this only get worse the more you try to "fix" the issue.
+1
I'd be tempted to keep them as is and chalk it up to patina. I dunno.
post #71330 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

Thanks!

See Ya,
Steve





Steve, I unfortunately do not have much advice to give you here. I would probably minimize the product used. It would be a shame if it was a cover up sham from the factory. Maybe a little tan paste wax??

I personally would avoid sending back to Alden, as recent experience shoes that they will come back nearly black... :-)

-Mike
post #71331 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post
 

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

 

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

 

Thanks!

 

See Ya,

Steve

 

 

 


weird...when i apply reno, the lighter-colored areas (usually the creases) seem to absorb the reno more, and after application, usually do look darker than the rest of the shoe. this is noticeable even with #8, and the pattern looks similar to what your left shoe looks like.. you think the problem could possibly be exacerbated by reno building up in the creases?

post #71332 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post

Yes for Ashland leather:




I love being able to carry a little shell with me wherever I go . . .

Also, my AE walnut Dalton boots (unlined) have partial stamps inside both left and right.

Very nice, is that the green one? Mine is developing patina nicely as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

Thanks!

See Ya,
Steve





I have dark spots on a pair of ravello plain toes, I tried everything to remove it but it is still there, just accepted it now and moved on. Casual boot but your pair is a bit more formal.
post #71333 of 91371
Totalair,

I have seen darkish patches develop on a few whiskey pairs, including my own. The only way to really address it is to apply tan paste wax to even out the color and cover it up a bit. I find that fixes the issue for several wears. However, unfortunately I don't know of a way to remove the dark spots (the spots on my whiskey shortwings were a bluish color). This seems to be an issue mainly with whiskey shoes.

I love my whiskey PTBs, but for brogued shoes I am going to focus more on Alden's tan calfskin going forward. Plenty of great models out there using that leather (J Gilbert wingtip boots, the classic Alden shortwing blucher, etc).
post #71334 of 91371
Forgive me, but isn't this Whiskey example essentially the essence of what "patina" is? confused.gif
post #71335 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalair1 View Post

Fellow SF members-I've got a problem I need advice on.  I've got a pair Alden Whiskey shell Short Wings with a dark area developing in the crease of each shoe, the left shoe is worse than the right.  I've never used any polish on these shoes, I have Saphir Renovateur after the dark area started developing.  I bought these shoes new, and from the beginning they first developed a light hazy area in the crease that appeared normal and I simply tried to polish out with horsehair brush.  But as I brushed the creased area started to have a little gummy like material peel away.  I kept brushing and the material continued to peel away kinda like glue or touch up finish.  Its hard to explain.  Anyway it started getting darker and I stopped.

My question is this something you think was in the finish from the factory?  This area stated looking different as soon as the creases started developing, darker and kinda dirty and hazy.  In retrospect i think these areas were touched up at the factory and I simply brushed away the touch up.  It bothers me to look down and see the dark areas so I want to do something to fix it.  Should I risk sending back to Alden?  Any suggestions on how to get the dark area to lighten up?  The more I brush the darker area seems to spread.

Thanks!

See Ya,
Steve


Alden apply a layer of overcoat glazing on most of their Cordovan shoes to give that instant out-of-the-box-shine. Vigorous brushing will wear out the overcoat glazing prematurely. Excessive use of solvent based products like Saphir Cordovan cream and Renovateur will dissolve the overcoat at various degrees.

Most likely, the sticky gummy thing that you got was the dissolved glazing.

Once the overcoat glazing is removed, the bare Cordovan is exposed. Renovateur darkens light color bare Cordovan slightly. I think that's what you are experiencing.

An appropriate analogy is in wood finishes. Some woodworkers put clear acrylic lacquer to get that easy brilliant shinny finish, while others use oil/wax for polishing.

Regretfully, I think you either leave the shoes as-is or send the shoes back to Alden. They will dye the shoes to a darker hue, and reapply the overcoat glazing.
post #71336 of 91371
^^ Do other makers omit this overcoat glazing? Is that why I find other cordovan shoes lackluster out of the box?
post #71337 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by tifosi View Post

^^ Do other makers omit this overcoat glazing? Is that why I find other cordovan shoes lackluster out of the box?

Yes - it's part of the reason Alden's cordo finishes look so deep and glossy. Compare to Carmina, for example.
post #71338 of 91371
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post

Yes for Ashland leather:




I love being able to carry a little shell with me wherever I go . . .

Also, my AE walnut Dalton boots (unlined) have partial stamps inside both left and right.

Very nice, is that the green one? Mine is developing patina nicely as well.

 

It is - very happy to have found it.

post #71339 of 91371

It's also why vigorous brushing on whiskey cordovan may not be such a brilliant idea, depending on one's objective.  If one wants his shoes to remain a light whiskey shade/finish, shine gently with a cotton or microfiber cloth. 

 

I constantly wonder why some folks purchase new cordovan shoes, brush the heck out of them before wearing--sometimes without any polish or conditioner--and then wonder when things go awry.  

post #71340 of 91371
One month old #8 Tanker "de-glazed" using almost two bottles of Renomat. The exposed bare Cordovan is dull. A comparison with a new pair of #8 shoes.





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